ZMANALEX

This is what you want: Part number is in last post.

Okay if you are not prepared to name the seller then I can only assume that it was possibly NCD or Techniclutch. You will probably also find that the Genuine Part numbers stamped on the old Exedy clutch cover and plate do not match up with the part numbers on the new parts. The two above named eBay sellers (both the same company but different names) are notorious for selling cheap option in Exedy boxes. Send the kit back and buy from a reputable seller. Exedy NSK 2168 is the part number you require Read the reviews.

The fork connects to the bearing carrier and not the bearing. Use a new Koyo bearing similar to your old one. RCT4000SA You will have to press the old bearing off the carrier and then press a new Koyo bearing on to the old carrier. I am not aware of Exedy supplying that type of new bearing/carrier that came in your clutch kit. I think I know what the issue is. Who did you buy the clutch kit from?

To get an informed diagnosis then you may have to get the car hooked up to Consult, otherwise, you will just be guessing. If the car was fine before you put it in the garage, then is this not the responsibility of that garage? as was the high tickover.

Plenty new and preowned in stock and shipping will be £5.95 including tracking and insurance. Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

Happy Days: Do you mind sharing the name of the friendly helpful garage?

Rear of the engine on the coolant pipe, however, I doubt that the issue will be the ECT sensor.

Definitely claim and take the service manager out in the car and demonstrate the fault, inducing the fault if you have to. Don't be deterred by him saying that you are beating the syncro as you are changing too fast or by him saying that it is wear and tear. If it comes to it, politely argue the case that it is a sports car and quick gear changes are part of the sports car experience. Also, hold firm on that it is a mechanical failure issue and not wear and tear. Good luck and keep us posted.

Will just be sticking on the splines. As Jack has said, put the nut back on flush and give it a good whack with a heavy hammer. Once you have broken the seal slacken off the nut a few threads and go again. Then remove the nut and use a 1" brass/aluminium drift or similar to knock it through. Best to get an extra pair of hand to hold the drive shaft in a horizontal position when you are chapping away.

Lovely looking GT-R Sam. Very surprised that this has not sold as definitely priced to sell. Long time no hear fella.

I'm with you Rob:

Plenty of these in stock, just drop me a PM if I can help further.

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to the forum.

to the forum Calum. I should be able to help you out with the Rays and I am only down the road in Perth and I am also in Aberdeen every other week. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

to the forum.

I should have this in stock, let me check this out for you. Coupe or Roadster? Nav or non Nav?

What year and model is your car?

Is this what you are after?

If this was mine I would not replace the sprockets as it is not cost effective to do it as per the book. The answer to your question is that these marks are on new sprockets. I would however definitely replace the crank sprocket. These are the main components that I would replace:

Why does it not stay open?

Black Nissan paint with a budget of sub £100.00 for a cover = disaster I am afraid.

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to the forum.