Rob_Quads

My comment presumed you would be going with fairly standard width of wheels i.e. 8.5"

No way! If i had £25k to spare, id do this in a heartbeat Exactly - to a majority that are doing it they are multi-millionaires and it will cost them nothing in the scale of things. Bit of entertainment for all. Its great to see all the cars when they leave etc. Shame its become soooo corperate sponsored etc - lost of a bit of the spark for me now all the cars are stickered up with exactly the same stuff etc. OK there is some stupid driving but there are been very few serious accidents at all - some smashed up cars but people keep walking away from them all. Quite a cool page for tracking http://www2.rallybird.eu/blog/?page_id=21

Still available .

Don't go near Megs wheel cleaner. Its awesome stuff for normal wheels - it shifts stuff wish just spray where others have not budged it.

All comes down to the design of the wheel. 28 on one wheel would clear but then on another it might not. Generally 28 is quite high and will probably sit fairly tucked in at the front.

Good to see you have put it to good use already. Looks like a good car to have your first play on. Now you just need to find a dull red/pink car to play on to see the ultimate change you can do.

Oh yeah theres definatly a difference in noise etc but the difference is with digital 99% of the time it won't actually make enough difference to affect whether it sees a 1 or a 0, with analogue oh much worse as its using the actual afected value for something

£40 for a HDMI cable With Analogue signals like Component/Audio etc cables can make a HUGE difference but with digitals its a completly different story. As long as all the 0 & 1s get down the line you get 100% picture. Can't be arsed to dig it up but the specs for HDMI but they state what quality of signal it must have and it works out that to be a 'HDMI' cable you can only have 1 error every X bits which works out something like 1 wrong pixel every 5 or so seconds - now thats 1 wrong frame so 1 wrong pixel at 50Hz = 1/50th of a second which there is NO way the human eye could spot. Simply put you will probably find that the budget £5 HDMI cable from the local shop will work as well as £50/£500 quid one from a specialist manufacturer.

Just hope you didn't go for the expensive QED HDMI cable

"P1 and P2 services + cambelt by a Nissan Dealer." I thought the Z had a chain drive system which does not need replacing like a Z? 15K seems quite a bit for a 45K import.

For a good comparison of the various product check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/ Shows whats bad or good about certain products - hint don't put flashing near moving parts like windows

Trees are very strong. You don't want to hit them side on at high speed otherwise that can happen to a lot of cars. There are photos around of an A3 from abroad that hit a tree - it ended up being in lots of pieces

All comes down to how much you want to spend. You could easily use the following 1 Pack Dynamat Ex. in each door 3/4 Packs Dynamat Ex. in the boot 3/4 Packs Dynamat Ex. in the glove box/ sub box area If you are sticking the sound deadedning on anywhere with moving parts round it IMO its work the money for Dynamat Extreme etc as they do not suffer from heat as much. If it falls off and touches the window it makes a really mess. Four also do some very good matting. For places like the boot floor a couple layers of the budget stuff will probably do about the similar job

I find I get head aches if I am in a car with them as GC350z finds, my brain focuses on the heater buy is looking beyond them at the road so I get a head-ache. Regarding the noise when switching it on, its just the sound of a normal 30A relay. Would be interesting to know what sort of power the rear window really pulls. If you had access to the relay would be really easy to measure using a multimeter. Once you know that you could work out if you could add another one in safely enough

Any chance you could scan in a copy of a service sheet so we could see exactly what they do

What colour is it as it IMO can make £500+ difference

Anyone got a copy of a P3 service sheet?

He posted before I had editted the thread so its a fair post Sarnie

At what time of night were these pics taken?

For the service to be due now thats some impressive millage to clock up in 2 years. As you said if it had been garaged it would need a service after a year but I am guessing thats not the case as its only been 3 years and 40K covered thus the next service will be at 45K or 1 yr after his last service

Hey Pippa, Sounds like a good event. Think mines a bit too standard to enter other than the ICE installed. Rob PS Hows the little one (or not so little any more)

Hmm there should not be a service due at that point. When you hit 27K you should have had your 27k/3yr Service - P1 then 36K you should have had your 36K/4yr service. - P3 If you are now hitting 40K you should be fine. Your next one will be due at either 45K or 5 yrs

H5 -> Yup got something planned - More SQ and quality again but nothing until this install is sold

Lets say he crashes and falls onto a rail line holding up lots of trains - cost to insurance company could easily be £10M+ I bet they would check his policy carefully if its going to cost them a lot of money. All about being sensible. Your breaking the law so why put the details about it on the web.

If you are not i would get this thread deleted. I would inform them as if your car gets stolen and they find they, they are liable to not pay out saying it increased the cars desirability thus affecting the chance of it being stolen. If you crashed your car they may be less worried about them but they would not replace them either. Only thing I would ever think about not declaring is one of these ECU chips which require extensive work to be detected