Jack94

I went for gunmetal grey when I had the LMGT4s on my silver 350 powdercoated. I do like that bronze though, bit less common than gunmetal I guess and suits very nicely

+1 for SGS. My Zed's got the Nismo V1 spoiler, I've had these on for just over a year and can't fault their performance even in the really cold weather

Welcome to the forum and good luck with the exhaust repair. If welding it doesn't work out I had the exact same problem a while ago (I think it's a common failure) and I fixed it with one of these: https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-350Z-rear-silencer-repair-flange-sleeve-connector/321860054433?_mwBanner=1 I've bought a cat-back exhaust now which I'll be fitting soon but that bodged it pretty well for a few months whilst I was saving up

Yah it's on the left rear suspension arm. I'm guessing it detects how high/low the rear suspension is to work out the front-rear angle and adjust the headlight beam accordingly.

Oh my god. Looking at that list of work the car shouldn't be on the road and needs to be scrapped I'll give you £500 for it Seriously though, like others have said, I think you're making a massive deal out of this when there's no need to. I totally get that if you don't know much about cars then a list like that might be terrifying and I think it's almost criminal how garages get away with convincing customers into work that doesn't need doing! But everyone on here is trying to offer advice and like it's been said, you don't seem to be taking much notice. Most of the things on your list are consumables so no matter what car you own most of them are going to need doing eventually unless you have a brand new car on lease like Ekona suggested. Granted some of these consumables are going to be more expensive than equivalent parts for a civic or fiesta etc but that goes with the territory, it's a sports car. Same goes for fuel, tax etc, you've got to factor that in when buying the car, kinda defeats the point of having a fun car if you're just gonna get down about the running costs all the time Anyways here's how I'd break it down... - New rear wiper: £10. - Front numberplate: £10. - New battery: £60ish. - Discs and pads: still have a bit of life in them so don't worry for now if funds are tight, just keep an eye on them and keep in mind they'll need doing in the next 6-12 months depending on your mileage. - Tyres: same story as brakes really but might need them a bit earlier. - Steering rack oil leak: again like Ekona has already said, if you haven't noticed oil where you park your car or the reservoir level going down then chances are it's just a weep so wouldn't worry about it. -Gearbox oil leak: Can't see the level obviously but wouldn't worry unless there was evidence of oil where you park the car. - Headlight level sensor (I think this is my favourite one): Can't believe they've quoted you over £400 for it!! Had a quick look on ebay and there's used ones for under £50 and I'm sure it's only a couple of bolts to change . - Rear subframe corroded: Like Shezza has said, don't get how it can be corroded when it's alluminium!? - Backplate partially missing: Who cares, not important. - Belts cracked: I did mine, cost £40 for the belts from Nissan and about 30 mins. - Rear droplinks: £100 & 2 nuts each to change. - Undertray bolts missing: £2 for 10 m6 bolts on eBay. - Coolant flush & air-con recharge fine until at least next service. - Full 4 wheel alignment to sort out your tyres wearing unevenly: £100ish. As long as you're capable enough to hold a spanner and own a jack/axle stands I would've thought you'll be able to change the droplinks, battery, belts, numberplate, wiper, Undertray bolts & headlight sensor yourself so then the grand total comes down to under £400.

Wow this is by far the cheapest set of face-lift headlights up for sale I've ever seen, I'd be asking for at least a couple of hundred more if I were you. GLWTS

Took me all of 10 seconds and 1 Google search to find Hope it helps anyways.

The gemini is a true dual system. It has a pipe off each cat which together form a Y sort of shape but the 2 pipes never join into 1, these then go into an X shape crossover. The OP is offering the left pipe between the cat and crossover.

Disconnecting a 12V battery shouldn't ever cause any issues, the only inconvenience is that it'll reset things like your clock, rev warning light, radio presets etc. My advice would be to leave the battery connected and put a trickle charger on it every couple of weeks or so to keep it topped up. Even if your garage is heated, if you just disconnect it for months then chances are it'll be completely flat next time you try to use it, all batteries self-discharge eventually.

Dibs. Pm sent

@Tarmac@TarmacSportz was doing a group buy on Nismo style polyurethane bumpers a while ago if I remember correctly, so he's probably a good guy to talk to

Personally I'd recommend either NGK or Denso seeing as they're probably the 2 biggest names when it comes to plugs. As for type I'd go for iridium every time, they're a little more expensive but offer the best spark and life span. I didn't realise but apparently the DE and HR use different size plugs so just make sure you get the right ones, if you're not sure then there's plenty of traders on here that'll be able to help you out.

Very smart I'll definitely be interested in a set for my DE once you've finished development!

I bought some NGK iridium ones for my DE 350z from @Tarmac@TarmacSportz. I'm sure @Adrian@TORQEN sells them too, try firing either of them a pm

Can't argue with the fact that young people are involved in way more accidents, I think that's a lot to do with their lack of experience rather than their age though. Anyway the point I was trying to make is that the bike test and the way insurance prices are calculated is flawed. At the moment it's incredibly difficult and expensive for someone my age to get on a big bike whereas it's very cheap and easy for someone older, it doesn't consider experience whatsoever. I started off riding trials bikes when I was 14, had a 50cc bike on the road when I was 16, bought my ZXR400 when I was 19, had it restricted for 2 years and now have been riding it de-restricted for another 2 years. You're telling me that just because I'm young(ish) that I'd be way more dangerous on a 600 than someone who's middle-aged but never ridden a bike before? I'm glad you agree but I am incredibly jealous of that This year I paid just over £200 so I think I'm just gonna keep the ZXR until I'm 25 then hopefully prices will drop to somewhere near reasonable, I can't warrant paying 5x the amount for something a little more powerful.

Having done my bike test in the new format I can't say I completely agree with it. I can understand restricting new people on power to try and ensure they get a bit of experience under their belt before jumping onto/into something quick and potentially more dangerous but I don't understand why they've changed the rules so that the restriction no longer comes off automatically after a certain amount of time. It cost me £1200 to get my full license and even now with a clean license and 4 years no claims insurers want £1000+ to insure me on an R6 whereas you can get someone in their 40s who's never ridden a bike before have a midlife crisis and jump straight onto an R1. I'm not sure how/if it could be done, but surely it'd be much safer and fairer to restrict based on experience rather than age.

Think I'd have to buy an invidia gemini exhaust and some high flow cats if you had them on offer

I agree Just meant the ones you linked aren't great examples that's all. Like I originally said, it'd be a cool project for someone assuming nothing else on the car needs attention and you could negotiate the price down a lot. Depends whether it's at all driveable I guess because like you say if it's not then there's no way to tell the condition of the gearbox, clutch, diff etc.

Fair point although 2 of them links are auctions not buy it now prices and the other one is an auto, plus none of them are GTs, have FSH etc. Obviously the one with the engine problem could be an absolute dog but it looks better in the pictures/sounds better on paper. Personally if it was me I'd enjoy doing the work but like you said, you need somewhere to store it. Would love a unit with a ramp one day but at the moment that's just a dream

Surely if everything else on the car is all good and you could haggle the price down to somewhere around 2k it'd be a good project for someone? If you assume the worst (that it's going to need a new engine) then there's a few on eBay for around 1.5k so if you can do the work yourself you could have it all fixed up for under 4k, unless I'm missing something?

Try not to get too hung up on the cost of brakes, tyres etc mate, they're consumables so every car has to have them done sooner or later and the parts are always going to be a bit more pricey than if you were buying them for a fiesta or something. Again, every car has to be serviced at least once a year. The wheel bearing is bad luck but most things on any car have a finite life so sadly things are gonna start failing eventually, gotta keep in mind that the car is nearly 10 years old.

Firstly sorry if this has been covered before, I did try searching but couldn't find anything. Basically I'm after some seat covers for my 350 which I can keep in the car and just slip on when needed. I occasionally use the car for work and as a mechanic I can be pretty filthy by the time I finish, so just want something to protect the seat from dirt oil etc. I had a quick Google but the only thing I could really find was universal ones off eBay which would do the job I guess but I'd rather spend a bit more and get some decent tailored fit ones if that's an option. Any help much appreciated.

Plugs are supposed to be changed every 5 years so yeah around now is the right time to have them done, not a good idea to neglect any serviceable items or you're just asking for trouble really. From my own experiences and the stories from most of the guys I work with (who come from dealers) , I wouldn't ever take my car to Nissan personally. Not only do they charge silly prices but they're also gonna rush the job because they'll be more worried about their bonus than your car, plus they probably won't be very familiar with the 350 seeing as they stopped production nearly 10 years ago. There's no shame in not being able to do the job yourself but if I were you I'd take your car to one of the well known specialists on here such as H-Dev, Abbey motorsport etc. They know our cars inside out so you know you'll get good service for a fair price. I'd say a stamp from one of those guys is much more valuable than a Nissan one.

Personally I'd pick the one that @RVSV2824 is selling all day long over them other 2. The fact that it's been owned by a forum member means it's probably been really well looked after/maintained plus like @coldel has said, eventhough it's slightly more expensive it's got loads of decent mods that will cost you way more if you buy a stock Z and do them yourself. I guess some of it comes down to personal preference but I love the azure blue colour too and the fact it's a face-lift is a massive bonus. Good luck with the hunt either way