Olly350z

An intermittent coilpack failure will be near on impossible to diagnose without specific diagnostic equipment, however what Alex has recommended will work providing you get lucky and it decides to misbehave I had a similar issue back in 2018 on my DE in which a coilpack was failing resulting in a totally random misfire which would come as quickly as it cleared, and I finally bit the bullet when it went into limp mode on a busy roundabout leaving me stranded. Euro car parts do (did, this was 3 years ago) a OE equivalent coilpack called Bremi. When I pulled all my oem packs these were identical even down to the mould lines. I replaced all 6 and plugs at the same time as I wanted a definitive answer. These packs were around £70 quid each, against Nissan who wanted £120 + VAT each and it worked like a charm. The car never ran so well, increased performance on the butt dyno and improved MPG. Obviously I can't guarantee this is your issue, however most misfires I've seen reported are coilpack / spark plug related. I'd advise checking those as your first response as they can be a relatively cheap fix

Paid the Valeted due to an operation last week, not been driven in a month so thought I'd let her sit out and bask in the sun.

Yes, I fitted a similar kit to my 350z and it worked a treat. Certain kits say you should notch the subframe for greater adjustment but I never bothered. I was pretty low on coilovers and once properly aligned never had any tyre issues. Must've done a good 15K on them and they look good as new, see photo I recommend plenty of rust buster to soak the nuts / bolts in and a long extension bar. Not the type of job you want to be doing on the floor as you won't get enough leverage and end up stripping the nuts

The rear is adjustable, I'd imagine your toe bolts are seized hence why you still have toe on one side. Maybe time for a freshen up on the suspension

Do not manually adjust the throttle bodies with them still attached to the car. You'll bugger then instantly. I suspect your hesitation on idle is not related. Hesitation on pull away is a symptom of low oil pressure which HRs are known to suffer from. I would suggest taking it to a specialist, Horsham developments or Abbey Motorsport for a checkover. At least that way you'll get a very clear picture of the cars health without incurring an eye watering bill needing two throttle bodies

They're pretty slow stock, they're getting pretty old and more and more are becoming a spotty teenagers wet dream meaning there are some absolutely horrific examples out there. That said, they have one of the biggest personalities on the car market and that character will keep you smiling and turning back around to see where you've parked. Probably the best motorway cruiser I've ever driven while doing 30mpg with the cruise control on. On a B road they're nimble enough to have some real fun with enough poke to to give most things a run, but they will step out on you if you're not careful. Routine maintenance is easy enough with knowledge and like any car if its that complex then pay someone to do. Modifications are plentiful to choose from Do I miss my old 350z? Absolutely. Do I miss keeping a old car on the road? Not so much Do I regret sticking with Nissan and getting a Nismo 370z to replace her instead of a big characterless German bargepole? Not a chance

My man! Don't ignore warning signs like that again! I'm glad to hear you went to hospital and they've managed to get you back on the road to recovery. I wish you a speedy recovery and back to full health, we've got lots of shows the natter at !

So basically you created the very niche problem that nobody else knew how to fix so nobody else decided to comment so not to lead you in the wrong direction which you then got knocky about and then posted another reply pointing that out, before actually posting the answer because someone gave you the attention you originally wanted for the very niche problem no-one knew how to fix. Cool 🤯

The former Category D (Cat D) has been replaced by Category N (Cat N). This refers to cars that haven't suffered structural damage, but some safety-critical components such as steering, brake or suspension components may require replacement. Again, if properly repaired, a Cat N car can be legally returned to the road. A Cat S or Cat N marker can sometimes be given to cars with relatively minor damage. An older, low-value car might be written off after a light scrape in a car park, simply because the cost of processing the insurance claim exceeds the car’s value. The amended system is intended to help inform used-car buyers if a car has previously suffered structural damage. This is becoming increasingly important as the complexity of modern cars means they may be written off because of electronic rather than structural damage. Take from that what you will, but any category write off is a risk. If you plan on buying it and never selling then it might be worth it, if you're looking to not lose huge amounts in depreciation then I'd avoid it. These are not the type of cars you want a bargain bucket special on

I had the 370z side repeaters fitted to my old 350z, was super easy to cut and splice them in, literally two wires a side Get a bodyshop to cut the hole and you'll be set. Looks so much cleaner then the badge and standard repeater

This applies more to DE's and Rev ups rather than HRs

Some may disagree but to me, I hate to say it but that warm idle is too low. Nissan state that 15psi is minimum warm idle, so I'd strongly recommend getting it checked. Years back buddy of mine bought a HR with 34k miles on the clock. We knew the gaskets needed doing, and when done by Abbey Motorsport the results were night and day different. He never saw below 30psi at idle even after a blast.

Unfortunately this is one of the known faults with the HR gearbox, and the gallery gaskets for the engine. I don't mean this horribly but I assume you did your research before buying? While at HDEV I'd get your oil pressure checked as this known fault effects most HRs. More good news is that job alone will cost you circa 900 quid

So, updates! My search for an exhaust was put on hold as I just couldn't settle on a brand as it had to fit right and sound right. I'd looked into short tails but couldn't justify £500 quid upwards for essentially a quarter of a full system. However, when these turned up for sale for a bargain price, it seemed the sensible way to go So, today I fitted the AAM resonated short tails. Took an hour to fit including removing the backbox. Fitment is spot on, they look great and sound great. Idle is a burble, around town is a nice rumble and cruising is comfortable. When you do put your foot down they do sing, maybe a little loud for my liking but they'll do the job for now

Absolutely, unless it's made out of cheese lol

Option 2 and prepare yourself for a relatively large bill (depending on what you choose to get done, personally I'd get it all done) and then that way you have the complete peace of mind its been done properly and you can enjoy the car It's probably the slave cylinder that has failed, I'd be very surprised if the master cylinder has failed. Don't think I've come across that, but as Jack said it's a internal slave so you probably wouldn't see a leak anyway

Only issue is I believe they're smaller then the factory nismo rays, what are they 8.5 front and 10 rear?

LMGT4'S are the best wheel, period. I often wonder what a set of the 19's would look like on my Nismo Took a trip down the beach a few nights back, was deserted so why not

Insurance quotes, can't stress this enough. Get some quotes first as you'll be surprised how difficult they can be to get sensible quotes for particularly as this will be your first RWD. Best of luck!

I'll take these please mate, can we arrange payment and collection

Headlight / washer bottle reservoir. You have two, one in each corner of the front bumper Hi and welcome

Not much of an update or my extreme modifying ways as I'd probably like, trying to keep this one as sensible as possible at least for the time being. But, I finally tackled a job that's been on my list and that was to replace the front red lower trims on the front bumper My originals were probably fine by mosts standards but did have several large stone chips so with the relatively cheap replacements it was time to get them on. What an arse of a job! You have to remove the under-tray, and then the lower part of each arch liner to get into each corner. Each garnish is held in place with three self tapping screws. You can see the colour difference clearly above And done, a noticeable difference My next modification will be an exhaust. Which exhaust however is proving difficult to choose. Currently stuck between Invidia N1 ARK grip Greedy Evolution Each has there pros and cons and for the cost involved has to be gotten right. Having watched what feels like every video on YouTube it seems like not many have fitted full systems to nismos

I wouldnt say there's anything particularly glaring there or to worry about. One side does seem to be running leaner then the other but how much so will be anyone's guess. The oil on the plugs is a fairly common 350z trait, the spark plug seals have failed on top of the valve cover. As far as I'm aware these are non serviceable items so it's time for new valve covers. ZmanAlex can help with these I'm sure you do, but always try to run premium fuel and regular oil changes (I did mine every 6K). That's best practice for maintaining your 350z. They're normally pretty bomb proof if looked after

You will have an intermittent fault with one of the sensors causing the system to not activate. My guess is brake pedal switch

Is that aftermarket LED light smaller then the original?