mr v6

By chance this one drove down my road about 10am yesterday morning. Silver & sounded like it had an aftermarket exhaust, could still her it on the main road.

Pics please mate.

Replaced the faulty coil with a new Intermotor one & all is now well. I bought a spare just in case I need to replace another at some point.

Hi, Was driving home from work earlier & felt what I'm sure is a misfire. When my foot was gently down the car juddered a little & was down on power. I have no EML lit. The gear lever wobbles quite badly during acceleration. This lasted about a mile & then it was fine. I've got home, used 3 apps on the phone & no codes are stored. I used Nissan datascan & it didn't show any codes. I did the cylinder power test & the engine made a noticeable change each time a cylinder was turned off then back on. There's a definite popping noise coming from the exhaust on idle too. I changed the plugs in Feb this year for NGK PLFR5A-11 & they've covered around 4000miles, I've not changed the coils, those are the ones that were on the car when I got it. I left the engine running & unplugged the coils one at a time (couldn't reach the one under the throttle body), each one made a difference except for one, so I had the time & swapped it to a place I can get to it easier. The problem has followed the coil. I'm going to get one ordered tomorrow in work, fingers crossed that's all it is.

My last 3 phones would connect then disconnect. Bury said this to me in their email when I enquired almost 3 years ago: "On all mobile phones with installed android-version 4.3 or higher the bluetooth stack is updated from Bluetooth 3.0 to 4.0. The Nissan Adapter BT only supports Bluetooth up to 3.0. Unfortunately all newer mobile phones can`t be used with the Nissan Adapter BT." Last month I bit the bullet & fitted my old bluetooth Pioneer head unit & the cables from Incartec.

In front of me at the lights on Chester Road at about 3.30pm today heading towards Sale. If you're here, it sounded nice as you got your foot down. It was something like CX14 ZFF..

That is indeed mine, although on the old wheels.

Saw this around 2.30pm today as I crossed right in front of you at the Tesco crossing. Black Z, reg S12YEM. Looked standard, might have had the windows tinted a little, didn't want to seem odd just staring.

I had mine done by Drury Lane Garage in Manchester last year. The car felt more planted once it was all done. My car is standard too. I paid £144 inc vat.

Not sure if the Fairlady wiring is the same, but a few weeks ago I used the Incartec 29-674 harness with the Pioneer patch lead for the steering wheel controls. See my topic below yours, you may get a pointer? My guess is you've not connected the blue wire from your new harness to the blue wire on the harness of your new head unit. Also be sure to connect the 2nd blue wire on your new harness to the new radio's harness, it's for the power aerial.

Good to see another fellow local.

Thanks Ben, After more Googling too, I've removed the console & found another blue wire on the new harness which was cable tied to it, so I missed it. Looks like I've just plugged the amp into my Pioneer harness. It has a piggy back blue wire which I stripped along with the one on the new harness, crimped a bullet connector on each on & hey presto, full signal & RDS data. Just for those who are searching in the near future, it's an easy thing to miss & confuse you a little, it did me anyhow.

The blue wire is definitely connected as there's sound from all speakers, if I unplug that blue wire all the sound goes. Unless you mean there's an extra wire for the power antenna?

Hi all, Today I fitted a Pioneer bluetooth single DIN I removed from my old car, I fitted it in the Z using the correct cables from Incartec to go with the old BOSE set up, works fine with SD card etc, the only issue seems to be the radio reception is pretty much non existent. It'll pick up radio 1 in a round about way, but no other stations. There's no RDS data either.. The standard aerial cable slotted straight into the short Pioneer extension cable on the back of the unit.. Am I missing a trick here? Is there some sort of Jap connector to the rest of the world I'm missing?? PS: An upgrade to double DIN will happen at some point.

Bargain for someone as these are £180 new,,

The usual reply here, I've been there, is to replace the standard line with a braided steel one & thoroughly bleed the system till you're bored of doing it. I also added a length of exhaust heat wrap around the line. This was 2 years ago 7 the pedal feel since has been spot on. Another culprit is the clutch slave cylinder, whether yours is the external or internal type.

Thanks both of you. Definitely nothing stuck in the treads of any of the tyres. They were both off yesterday to do the rear pads (noise was there before that). I've had it up in the air again for a thorough check & nothing is out of place, I just can't put my finger on it. I could understand pin pointing it to a corner, but it sounds underneath the car...

I noticed this last week & put it down to something sticky on one of the rear tyres, that's kind of how it sounds. It is consistent with road speed too. you can hear it bouncing off the house walls as you're driving around. It doesn't sound like one of the rear corners, but possibly underneath the back of the car. I put the rear end on stands at the weekend & ran it through the gears & the noise wasn't there, but it is when the wheels are on the ground & you're driving. It sounds sort of a rubbery sticky noise I just can't put my finger on.

Once last week, twice this week & when at the lights next to me was greeted with a thumbs up & a nod. A6144 Carrington turning left onto Carrington Lane. N** GPH.

Mine last year was a very light sounding metallic rattle when reversing up the drive. It turned out to be the heatshield on the passenger side cat, there was a very small section rusted away, I just pulled the offending bit off & never heard from it again. Could also be the innards of the cat / exhaust breaking up if you're really unlucky, or something else entirely.

Open to other ideas if people have them. I've been looking, believe me, but when you get into it a lot of sites are telling me they won't fit my Z.

Thanks Payco, but apart from price, they're just not my cuppa tea.

Heading south on the A56 Chester Road at 5.50am this morning. Seemed to have aftermarket HID's as they were quite blue, it also had rear louvres.. They looked good..

Thanks LRF4N, is there any benefit (or negative) to going 8.5" on the rear? More concave? I've read this may trip the TCS light? How would changing the width of the wheel do this when the rolling radius is the same?

I'm now reading conflicting posts on various sites & forums on my original wheel size. I have the Touring type with 225 on the front & 265 on the rear. Some sources are saying they're 8" wide on each corner, others are 8" on the front & 9" on the rear, amongst other combinations. What exactly are the alloy specs on the Touring wheels, including offset. Just so I know what I'm ordering when I get there next weekend. Thanks.