mr v6

Same thing with mine just after buying, all lights on the dash would light but no crank, turn ignition off, back on & it would start up. My problem was a loose battery cable connection. Nipped it up & never had an issue since.

6:45 into this video here shows where he went wrong with his backing plate😁.

Just a suggestion, did you disconnect the battery first? Also, are you able to reset the steering angle sensor in case that's the issue?

Preferably a new one for Brembo calipers, not sure if they're different. I can't seem to source an aftermarket one at work. I don't want a used one. If anyone does have one, or a pair, I could be tempted depending on price.

Welcome fellow northerner! Clean looking Z.

Every now & then I check mine are still fitted as I've found they can turn around over time..

I had a fail in August on a rotten rear subframe, till I went back & pointed out it was aluminium. Exactly where on the rear is so bad?

Were the spark plug tubes full of oil prior to doing the spark plugs? If so, did you get it out or just remove the plug & allow the oil to get into the cylinders? I've had this on an older V6 engine & it took a bit of a run out for it to burn off.

Welcome aboard. Love that colour, looks very clean too!😎

We stock 1000's of Yuasa batteries at work & very rarely have a faulty one. For info, they have 3 different ranges, 1 yr, 3yr & 5yr warranties. Sounds like you're just unlucky. I can't remember the last time I bought anything from a Halfords.

Could just be low on refrigerant gas. Does 1 of the cooling fans come on when you switch it on using the panel? I thought at least one of them should, maybe even both. That should eliminate some of the system.

Any update on this? Just interested to hear it's been sorted👍.

My bet is if you have Brembos, there was corrosion under the stainless sliders, which pushes the edges inwards, resulting in less space for the pads to move, so they're grabbing all the time, can't release & is building up heat. Sounds like they'll need to grind the edges of the pads back so they slide freely.. Very common issue on 4 pot Brembo calipers. Apart from a strip down & removal of the sliders this is your only option. I've had to do this on loads of Brembo calipers I've worked on.

Those would be correct, I just checked mine. However I'm on 255 on the rear, they were what was fitted when I bought it.

Parked up at the Washway Road end of Glebelands Road just a short while ago. Silver with a wrapped black bonnet & rear window louvre.. Anyone on here?

Does NDSII give any obd codes? Does sound odd. Silly question, you have plugged all the components back properly? Easy done. What brand plugs & coils did you fit?

Had my Z booked in at my usual garage today for the MOT. He failed it on 'rear subframe rotten', words to that effect on the failure certificate. Needless to say I was very cheesed off was an understatement. I went home & started Googling it only to find they're aluminium.. So I went back & asked if he'd put it back on the lift as aluminium doesn't rot away, also so I can take a few photos. He had another look with his boss & admitted he was wrong. It appears, or at least I think, it's the kidney brackets towards the rear of the subframe. Something that I'll look at getting sorted at some point. His boss went off & came back with a new, valid pass certificate with the front tyres as advisories. It's something I'll need to get sorted as there were a few small crusty bits coming off them as he tapped away with his little hammer.

Are the solenoids the same for both banks? If so, why hasn't he swapped them around to see if the code follows the 'suspect' solenoid?

It's rare I use it Dave, but it reads all the ECU's, airbag, TCM on autos ect. There are some actuation tests you can do, but not too many. Cylinder balance test too.

It was here, although quite a bit cheaper now: https://nisscan.com/product/nds-ii-windows-pc/?v=79cba1185463 The lead I use is a cheap VAGCOM lead, usually under £10: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185872583460?hash=item2b46de8b24:g:0MQAAOSwGlRkOSqb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Gza6mA270dv3er0K1m0zMP7O%2BxdxNujl82ViELPaNlMNlBKc0enOyiugwqgQkCQaswTSE1kHiS2maGyaD0h53SHuoe67ZJVYTxwbBNmwYrVrFCIHUbxz6THGCvJt5U7j6DU%2F5dxlTi4FTajUTN4QQSpSyjqS6f%2F9gUvctMxIPT05nhOeLKFGBbAStf%2FfsqcP2XHXBcqqOnkTzs0g3n%2BebvD2iZ2AAGnIEh1HOdtHnNsla3LKAME0AvvwVIxAtj96rwR2tRxFuw7aND7%2FV0R59uR5Ylivnq0MAutxvjxE4Lm|tkp%3ABFBMrJ-lxaNi

I tried looking for this a long time ago & couldn't find it. If it's any help I have Nissan datascan that goes into all the modules. Located in Manchester.

Easily accessible to give it a knock with a hammer then try to start it. If it starts, new starter time. Hope you find the issue.

Is it just my screen, or in 2 of the pictures of the lower brace, it seems to be covered in green coolant? Definitely an oil leak though. Wash off as David has suggested.

My OBD dongle (ELM327) will only read engine codes, it's a bluetooth version & they're only about £10, I use it with the Torque Pro app, Piston & OBD Scanner. For all the other stuff I have Nissan Datascan.

I'd remove the A/C belt & run it again. Easy enough to remove. If the noise goes then you know where to start the diagnosis.