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gsexr

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Everything posted by gsexr

  1. It was 1981 and i bought 1972 Hillman Imp for £250 and i still have the receipt
  2. that`s just water velocity noise mate that your hearing. As the room warms up and the valve starts to close reducing the diameter that the water is being pumped through. Fixed speed pump and an ever decreasing orifice its inevitable that you will get this noise. Later type energy saving/ variable speed pumps can help. Usually the bathroom radiator does not have a TRV as you need an open loop on the circuit for pump overrun. This is to stop the boiler overheating unless there is an automatic/ manual bypass fitted. Just mentioning this in-case you experience issues after you have turned the valve down a bit. Then again you may have another rad on the system without a TRV.
  3. First off identify where the noise is coming from before you get too excited about doing the job. As said above if it happens when the central heating comes on its more likely to be the pump squealing or water velocity noise through a non return valve or heating valve. Sometimes the noise can travel along the pipework making you think its in a different area than it actually is. If its the pump its most likely to be in the boiler or situated near it if its external. Where is the boiler/Pump ? You mentioned doing it after work.... think twice before you start a job and end up in trouble because you need bits and no where is open.
  4. Nowt wrong with picture whoring especially when its the best colour mate
  5. On your original there is a live link added which is common to see but the new one looks like its got a built in link. You might want to check and confirm this. The new one shows on and off because you can get motor open and motor closed valves but most domestic valves are motor open and spring return to close them. Just remember that all the time clock is doing is at the on time joining the incoming live to the switched live which is the one going out to your valve. The thermostat will also interface this live so that when its up to temperature it effectively cuts off the live supply to where ever its going. Room stat and tank stat do the same just different circuits. If you have two valves then one will be for heating and one will be for hot water. When the time clock comes on it just sends a live feed to the valve and the valve opens. When it gets to the end of its travel it operates a micro switch. Again all this does is join a live to a switched live which goes to the boiler/pump to come on and heat up with ever circuit that valve is on. Hopefully this explanation will help you look at what you have and understand how it works so you can replace the time clock. You usually can find a wiring diagram that shows you how to convert from one make of clock to another but this has to assume your original is wired in correctly.. Is your time clock faulty or do you have another reason for changing it. I ask because most problems if the heating/hot water io not coming on are caused by the valves failing. eg the micro switch not being operated due to the valve not fully opening and you can just change the syncron motor if thats failed. Happy to help if you want to ask more mate. Ex heating engineer This may help if you can follow a wiring diagram http://www.plumbcenter.co.uk/wcsstore7.00.343.53.04/ExtendedSitesCatalogAssetStore/images/products/AssetPush/DTP_AssetPushHighRes/std.lang.all/ti/on/Horstmann_C21-C27_Installation.pdf
  6. I`m addicted to tea, about 15 cups most days and lets not talk about the biscuits that go with it...
  7. http://www.sky.com/shop/offers/blackfriday/dm/v1?DCMP=knc-GOOGLE-nc-DTH-EVENTS-%2Bsky+%2Bblack+%2Bfriday&gclid=COP_p-6csckCFYqRGwodPRQAIg#section-3
  8. 50% off for new customers 12 month contract so the cheapest way to get the most of next seasons F1
  9. I was in the trade and we always had to road test everything we worked on to make sure it was correct and without any additional faults the owner might not have mentioned as they were not aware of them. Lots of sexy motors and lots of grin inducing road tests. All part of the job and if you have mechanical sympathy you aint gonna do em any harm. Most stuff has ignition cut out rev limiters now anyway so what yer worried about.
  10. https://www.tescopfs...r-stations/faqs http://www.simplemotoring.co.uk/supermarket-vs-branded-fuels/#.VldOhljhDT8 might help yer if yer can be bothered to read it
  11. Can you double check that for me as i counted 24 and need to know now otherwise i wont be able to sleep tonight
  12. Grind a couple of grooves down the right bolt for the thread and screw it in carefully working it backwards and forwards and it will clean that thread up
  13. Defo go for a router. My mum had the same problem and its now much faster with the new one.
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