RobPhoboS

Jesus Christ guys - cheer up.

Ah ok, just good to know so other people can read the warning signs. Can't wait to see how this turns out

Did you find out exactly how pooped itself ? (or an inherited problem from previous owners etc)

Well I like to do my own testing, and will make a cruddy thing to see bud Then I can come back with a yey/ney, I can't take everyone's word without testing first hand (especially when it's simple). The MBC definitely moves forwards though as I watched it myself tonight, now as to what putting a brace there will do - I'll find out.

Well if someone reading that can't work it out..

So I have a couple of options now, and luckily a very good friend knows someone nearby that we can mock on up first and see how it goes. So for now, unless someone else is rearing to go on this, give me a while and I'll see how it pans out.

It does make me wonder how much these little things end up contributing to fooking up stuff.

Don't judge before watching...

I'm sure there are plenty of people that could benefit from a few tips in here...

I'm in the 350z but I removed the cat heatshields and it would heat the cabin up nicely during winter However the other day I decided to stick some heatshield material to the car. I need to inspect it again but I'll ensure it's stuck to the car with some RTV gasket sealant (high temp). http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Fairing-Panel-Exhaust-Engine-HEAT-SHIELD-Self-Adhesive-Sheet-New-/140889796676?hash=item20cdafb044:g:ZbYAAOxyLN9Sngex

(apologies for massive pics!) So, at the moment it seems like there are only LHD bracing options available for the 350z brake master cylinder, and these both make use of the strut tower mount. Or there is the extremely pricey (but lovely) Carbing strut tower brace which incorporates an MBC brace, although I've no idea if they made it for RHD as well ? If you're unfamiliar with what it does, well obviously it braces the MBC from moving, which in turn (theoretically) should give a firmer pedal feel. 'When you brake, the pressure in the line can cause the MBC's mounting the flex (not the MBC itself, usually). This is really common on older cars. Even at a standstill, when you stand on the brakes you can see the firewall flexing a little where the MBC is attached. The "stopper" stops the MBC from moving, improving pedal feel and response.' 'Ideally, you'd like the brace to run perpendicular to the motion you are trying to prevent. But the Stillen unit runs parallel to it. They did it that way due to the way the Z's strut towers are spaced, and to make for an easier install.' I've been in contact with Z1, the biggest issue they have is that RHD cars are kind of rare in the USA, so for them to be able to create a batch is going to be near impossible I imagine. So is anyone up for helping me out create something for our community at a fair price ? Here are the ones manufactured for LHD, the Z1 looks like the best option to create something similar to it. Z1 Motosports $138 (£95) Stillen $160 (£110)

Hey guys, I just wondered if someone could get a photo and upload it for me, specifically of the brake master cylinder and part of the strut tower from above looking down ? EDIT: Mod can delete this thread - sorted now.

As I mentioned before, it's dual action, so moving in different directions: Honestly, I wouldn't bother with a DA. Just get yourself DECENT pads, that aren't too aggressive, and perhaps practice on a scrapyard bonnet or two first. Watch plenty of videos to see technique. Remember, several passes with less aggressive compounds (polish) and pads is better than wading in like a bull in a china shop. Sure you can purchase a cheaper rotary tool but the polish/pads etc should be good quality.

Yep, I'm using it already mate

I have a DA (dual action) polisher as well, you're less likely to 'burn through' to the paint with one of those - BUT - it seemed to take forever on some paints to get nice results. So this was my first rotary polisher and honestly, it's great. I've got no idea what the cheaper ones are like but just compare the specs and features to that one I posted, and if they are similar, yeah sure give it a go.

One day, I must get this kit as well as doing an 'engine tuck' as well.

It's out of stock on this link but I have this: http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/machine-polishing-pads/car-polishers/dodo-juice-spin-doctor-rotary-v2/prod_806.html A friend that runs a detailing company also has one and uses it, as well as a bunch of others of course.

I wish I hadn't seen that

I would have given up, and not stopped crying.

Actually it doesn't do anything if you have a heavier than stock spoiler (from my experience). This is what I'll do next weekend: http://www.350z-uk.c...o-boot-pop-fix/

It may seem pricey for what it is but honestly, just for anyone else on the fence - it really does mean less ankle twisting, and a bit more control on the brakes.

Pretty much this: The 'bigger numbers' are absolutely tiny unless you go forced induction LDUNKZ18. Or if you have a huge chunk of cash to do the NA route properly but I've not seen anyone over here do that (bare that in mind). Depending on what you use the car for, I'd do the above (pads/lines/discs/fluids/tyres) change all of the suspension bushings, upgrade the suspension as well as having adjustable geo options and a good geo set-up for what you use it for. Then you'll feel a huge difference

[quote name='DarmoZ' timestamp='1454601387' post='1582618'] Fair point I think ill send her in for a new Master and flush/bleed with new fluid. should do the trick....Hopefully [/quote] I may end up doing the same as well, even just due to the age of it. Please post up how it goes

[quote name='DarmoZ' timestamp='1454600270' post='1582604'] The car was services recently and the fluid was bled, so i doubt it's air in the system, I don't think it's knock back as it happens all the time not just after going round corner, plus i'm not cornering on track. I heard it could be master cylinder? [/quote] I found after some time, and about 300000 attempts at bleeding the brakes they are now at a better biting point. I just have to get a few heat cycles into them more often and they seem pretty decent. It could well be air in the master cylinder or just that it's an old master cylinder. (and I agree, it's more than likely NOT knockback)

Just bought the relay, so I'll do this next week - cheers for the guide !!!