cs2000

Where is mr "Do it nice" lately, don't recall seeing him for a while.

Hah, didn't realise you were actually buying 90% of the pure porn you posted early on in this topic. Car looks amazing, and I LOVE the leds in the wing.

My bet is that you rotated the wheel. Now the poor ESP/TCS things you have the wheel turned when you actually don't. Something along the lines of wheel position sensor. Electronics ... If it is that a code reader will tell you. But you can only see the actual degrees that its reporting with UpRev software. The dealer can reset the sensor too with their Consult 2 device, but if you've rotated it by any more than 180 degrees you need to hope you havnt damaged any of the wires...

Could do mate I think whatever its going to need some soldering, definitely a poor design choice if this is true, I mean, it is only a filament bulb after all, it is going to fail at some point. Nissan: "Yes sir we can fix that, please just bend over and accept the £200 bill youre about to receive"

Good guide, hopefully will stop the "im buying a new car, anything to look out for" posts

Ok mate, weird, but I guess we learn something every day. LincolnBaggie, you should have a reply to your PM I have added the photos of the two kinds to the main page. Anyone who's ordered up-to now can get a refund for those bulbs (will have to check the exact price, but will only be £4.00 orso) if they would like them and can show proof they don't fit, as PH7 has From now on, with the large photos id hope, and have advised people to check first.

Ta for clearing that up BM. Its a shame, could be your car was originally destined to be a jap model, but was sent to the UK half way through the build, or as you say, a supply issue with the UK fixings. Well, you cut cut the wires and do some careful soldering to solder the new LED in place I guess, but the bulbs you have wont fit as standard sadly Can refund you the cost of those particular bulbs if youd like.

Yes, I responded to it didn't I (just wanted to make sure...) PH7, weird. Is yours an import or anything? On mine UK 04 plate GT, those bulbs are 29mm festoons. Just popped out to take a look at mine again. Finger over the led so you can see it clearer with the cover on. The blue tool is just stuck in there so it turns out the light.

Thanks Darren. Seems strange that sopmetimes the discs needs re-copying. I burnt them at 2x to minimise burn errors Anyway... SET1 - With AJRFulton (cannot seem to get hold of him) SET2 - With mike89 posting to haynesml SET3 - With Darren-B - Ready To Go SET4 - With steel lynx

3 door Jag looks amazing, doors would be about 8 ft long though! lol

Tadaa http://www.sgs-engineering.com/gas-struts/car-boot-tailgate/nissan/350z

Cabnt give you a concrete answer as I don't have any of my service guides here at work, but from what I know, thw Chassis leg is where the force from the suspension springs go through. My guess is its the piece of metal underneath the little cup that the rear sprint sits in. As for cost and time in getting it fixed, ive no idea. With no technical documents I cant find a part number even so couldn't begin to guess. Strange for it to be damaged though. I don't even know if these are welded to the chassis as standard, may have to come from a breakers. Id give alex a PM mate tbh.

@ Mike89, glad they worked, can you contact and post to haynesml please SET1 - With AJRFulton (cannot seem to get hold of him) SET2 - With mike89 posting to haynesml SET3 - With Darren-B SET4 - With steel lynx

True, I think we all agree that the zed does some damn strange things when the battery voltage goes low, even though the volt meter in the car will show correct volts still.

Key is fine. Remember the door unlocking and NATS coding are two different process's. I have a key that can unlock my doors remotely, but cannot start the car as its not registered with NATS. As long as the security light is flashing when locked. Then you unlock the doors, insert the key into the ignition, turn it to the ON position and the security light goes out, the NATS has authorised the key. That rules out a key failure. Doing this cant harm I suppose, but whats 5 on 10 off supposed to do? Bearing in mind what I said above, IE, if its a NATS failure, 5 of the same erros will just re-force it into Lock Mode. You really need to pull the error codes. It could be absolutely anything, essentially what you have is a non-starting car with nothing directly pointing to a NATS failure. Could be absolutely anything you can imagine at this stage. Coilpacks, battery, MAF sensor, Crank position sensor, the list goes on..

Bingo.

hmm, forum discounts.... It SHOULDNT be a NATS failure, these do happen, but id say are in the minority. Do you have a code scanner? NATS faults should show up as code P1610 &/or P1614. If you see P1614 it indicated the code in the key doesn't match the authorised codes stored in the NATS computer. Easy way to check this is simply slide a key into the ignition. If the red LED in the window goes out, then its a valid and recognised key and should be able to disable the immobiliser. If you see P1610, this is the NATS "Lock Mode". This state is triggered when after 5 "checks" the car doesn't get a proper response from either the ECU or immobiliser (which could indicate a fault here) or if a invalid key is used 5 times to try to start the car. Even if you fix the underlying issue it will not start until its internal timer has expired. If you have another key (maybe the valet key, the one with no buttons), try inserting this, turning the car from off, all the way to cranking the engine and then off again 3 times, on the 4th it should start. After either of the above codes the NATS system needs to read a valid key code 3 times before it will disable the immobiliser and allow the car to start, my guess is this is to stop thieves potentially cycling 1 by 1 through every possible code. Failing that, Horsham Developments can disable the immobiliser permanently for you.

Correct me if im wrong, the red GTR that shoots into the lead from the back isn't the top secret car. The top secret car is the silver GTR that's in 3rd place about 3:30 into the video (if you look at it, its got a huge top secret decal down the sides). Cant understand why hes not leading into the first corner, or very VERY shortly thereafter when its pushing almost 400 BHP more than any other car on the grid. Must be a lot lower on torque then the 650BHP red GTR that leads

Cheers mate, ive added you to the list and will contact you when things are ready to go forward.

SET1 - With AJRFulton (cannot seem to get hold of him) SET2 - With mike89 SET3 - With Darren-B SET4 - With cmp99 Posting to steel lynx List updated Again Let me know if ive got anything wrong or if your disk set is available

Take a look at the iPod hack guide. The entire Bose unit has to be removed but yes the Dacia can then be removed from the body. From memory there's not a physical connector holding them together, it's just some metal pins on the front panel that contact the PCB on the main body. Perhaps someone's had it apart before and bent these slightly.

Mines doing this too. Only issue is I have a hole in my ac rad . Need a new one me thinks.

Glad they're all starting to turn up! The side repeaters are difficult. You may be letter inserting a butter knife behind them and pressing. They release in a similar way to the boot light.

Sorry mate but my build thred is almost irrelevant as I used different LED's and wired them up differently. Only thing the same was the spacing of the LED Holes. Drop me a PM with your questions

See! said so, I would have had them if it wasn't this close to Christmas.