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ilogikal1

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Everything posted by ilogikal1

  1. These two things then. I'll start by saying I was wrong about Imperial removing Slick Rims. It just kills the beading (except on plastic). The staining however... well, see below. Another 450ish miles covered since the last wash, which was the same journey as the first one in very similar weather - bone dry whilst driving, but it did rain whilst the car was sat stationary again (although it wasn't sandy rain this time). As you can see from the discs, it rained again after the return leg of the journey too this time too though. I started with this (please ignore any tyre fitting soap, I had new tyres fitted on the Friday and then drove to London on the Saturday, so they hadn't been cleaned since being fitted); HubiRims wheel; The Slick Rims wheel that has been treated the same as the HubiRims wheel when cleaning so far; That's not a reflection or anything, that's a very rusty coloured stain. This is the half Imperial'd wheel - the left side is the unscathed Slick Rims, the top right is an area that was cleaned with Imperial last time and the bottom right is 50/50 up to the side of the spoke (the side of the spoke and left of that is all Slick Rims, face of the spoke and right was Imperial'd); I couldn't differentiate the areas, to the point where I actually had to check the previous photos to remind myself of what area was Imperial'd (I'm making that a thing now, just so you know). Finally this is the completely Imperial'd wheel. The one where all the beading was killed off except on the centre cap, the one which made me think that Slick Rims had been killed off entirely... Damn it! But also, So perhaps Slick Rims hasn't been removed after all! This is the only wheel with heavy spotting (the other two Slick Rims wheels, both fronts, had the odd spot still though). At this point, all wheels were attacked with Wheel Woolies and some "pH neutral shampoo" - no idea what it actually it, it's a blind test product from Waxybox, but I'm assured it leaves nothing behind. The important point (for me) was that it's pH neutral, for the benefit of what remains of the Slick Rims. That left me with this (wheels are in the same order again); HubiRims wheel (excuse the weight tape residue) Unmolested Slick Rims That rusty stain didn't shift much! The previously half Imperial'd wheel - left not, right was The previously completely Imperial'd wheel The spotting lifted considerably easier this time (no scrubbing occurred on this wash like I had to last time). With that, out came the Car Chem Revolt. I wasn't particularly bothered about killing HubiRims off with fallout remover as that weight tape on that wheel already annoys me so I intend to remove both rears, strip off the HubiRims and replace it with something else. I've not yet decided what to do with the Slick Rims, with the wheel off I may well strip that too but I may just further molest the sealant after they (Slick Rims) suggested I give it an IPA wipe. In the mean time, Revolt did this; HubiRims - most of the reaction was traced back to the flaky damage of ugliness (that I've still not got round to sorting, obviously). The unmolested Slick Rims - surprisingly it didn't react with the stain around the bubbling. The previously half-Imperial'd wheel - left & bottom is unmolested, right was Imperial'd. There was no noticeable difference between the two. The previously completely Imperial'd wheel - oddly, the reaction with the spots wasn't purple (there was purple reaction too, just not coming from the spots) but rather... well, this. When Revolt was rinsed off (with a hose on a "jet" setting for those interested), it had removed virtually all of the stains, spots and marks - those that remained were sparse enough for me to assume that I'd just missed them with Revolt. The beading from anything that Imperial has previously Imperial'd (I told you I'm making that a thing!) is still comepletely gone, whereas that on the un-Imperial'd bits is still very good. It's just a shame the protection is so poor really. HubiRims beading was deminished a bit from the Revolt but it's still going, and to be fair it's still much better than the Imperial'd Slick Rims. No pictures of that though, largely because I can't be arsed with Slick Rims at all anymore.
  2. That's not true. They signed up to DW but have since ignored the entire community, so a more accurate description would be that no one has heard FROM them in the UK.
  3. Okay, I'm bored, I'll play; Some of which were self inflicted, to be honest. No one was questioning the terminology. It was the illegal speeds on a public road that people took issue to. There's a difference between driving fast and driving illegally. In the right time and place no one would "frown upon" you for doing those "not recommended speed", on a public road, in traffic is neither of those things let alone both. So not safe then.
  4. My first thought to that response would have been "why?" though, especially as it's quotes on the website; So I think the actual response was perfectly suitable, personally.
  5. I was getting my own freeloading in early. You distribute, I freeload demonstrate your products. Winning combination (for me, at least ).
  6. (More) free samples for product testers, yes?
  7. Cheers Stu. I have to admit, I've been very pleasantly surprised by Skin. I wasn't too sure what to expect from it before using it - on the one hand it's quite expensive compared to others on the market, on the other hand it's been designed by/for one specific person so I wasn't convinced that it'd be as easy to use as it is, nor that it'd be as strong a competitor to established brands as it's proving to be (or rather exceed). If he can get a UK distributor (and maybe even bring the price down a bit), it could do very well over here.
  8. Another week, another 450(ish) miles and another wash, so it must be time for another update. Unsurprisingly there is a wheel sealant update, but seeing as that has largely taken over this lot of LSPs despite not actually being the focus here I'll leave that for later. Instead, here's some sealant stuff. The weatherman told me (well, the whole region really, not just me) that today consisted of rain all morning followed by sunshine all afternoon. Heeding this warning, I washed the car this morning whilst it didn't rain at all and then took photos this afternoon... after it had rained for most of said afternoon. Close but no cigar weatherman! Also, having literally just finished washing the car, the postman delivered this months Waxybox. Seriously, it's like these complete strangers have no regard for my car washing plans! The usual routine was followed; snow foam applied and allowed to dwell, rinsed, 2 bucket wash with Nanolex Pure shampoo and rinse again. These are actual, real, natural, not-at-all-simulated beads from the rain that didn't happen when it was supposed to. Before the pictures though, have some more words. There didn't seem to be any noticeable difference in the sealants in terms of self cleaning still, each section of the bonnet was just as dirty as the others - although, perhaps unsurprisingly, the coatings were noticeably cleaner (it did rain at least once after each journey which probably helped wash those sections) - so in that sense all three of the sealants are remarkably similar. I mention this because FK makes a big point of being "anti-static", and thus repels dust... no more so than the others, it seems. The snow foam acted the same way on the bonnet as before in that Skin sheeted the foam less than all the others, however when it came to rinsing Skin was sheeting the water much faster than EX-P or FK. After the wash, by the time the Skin section was done sheeting, the EX-P section was ~25% wet still whilst FK was ~50% wet - for those keeping score by the time EX-P was dry, FK was ~20% wet still. I did notice something this time though; Skin's sheeting gets better and better the more you rinse it after foaming and washing whilst EX-P and FK, once they've been thoroughly rinsed once, didn't change. I tested this on the side panels by rinsing the front end more than the rear (the door got more than the rear, not as much as the front) and sure enough there was a noticeable difference in sheeting. Anyway in terms of sheeting, after the coatings which are in a separate league, Skin is leading the way, EX-P follows and FK is languishing behind. Cure on the roof is still sheeting well (just behind Skin in my opinion, but that's more of a judgement call) but beading isn't too smart these days, whilst Hydro Coat on the boot is still mighty impressive and on par with the coatings currently. Phaenna is on it's last legs (which isn't bad for a show wax) and Candy Gloss Whipped is now just a memory whilst Origin on the front bumper is still looking good and sheeting very well. The wheel waxes on the exhaust are both still going strong, but it didn't rain under the car so there's no pictures to back this up. I'd apologise for that but I don't care. So, have some rainy beads; EX-P; Skin; FK; Left is EX-P, right is Skin; Left is Skin, right is FK; Skin is still offering the better beads, although they have started to drop off a touch now - they are no longer quite as tight and tall as previous weeks, nor as consistently round, however they are not as poor as either EX-P or FK yet. EX-P and FK aren't much different to each other either. Origin; Cure; Seems to be marginally better on the pillar trim rather than the roof, I'm assuming this is as much the angle of the panel as anything. Hydro Coat; Top is Hydro Coat, bottom is Infinity; Top is Skin, bottom is Infinity; Infinity; Cure, Hydro Coat and G1; The irony of the "itbeads" sticker not beading both amuses and irritates me in equal measures. I may have to find a way to make it bead! Cure and G1; That's your lot. Oh, and for those interested, the interview on Monday went really well.
  9. Why bother with more detail? Because, as you said yourself, it could be more shiny. Some (most) people are perfectly happy spreading the dirt around their car(s) with a sponge. More power to them, I wish I still was and didn't spend for-*******-ever noticing the tiniest marks everywhere. The more people who use sponges the shinier mine looks in comparison though, even when mine is still filthy, so have at it if you wish.
  10. FTFY. OP, I hope all this speculation and discussion about WW is helping you find the price of your cloud view....
  11. The "cloudyness" is caused by UV damage, once they're polished up you'll need to seal them with something UV resistant to prevent the "cloudyness" returning.
  12. A couple of posts down. Or here. The biggest shame of him being banned is that now I have to read MSN News myself for those almost-entirely-fabricated-and-poorly-reported rumours on topics that had long since been resolved. It takes up more of ones day than one might expect!
  13. My local council would end up just cleaning the paint off (at those inflated council prices to boot) and then forget to actually repair pothole instead.
  14. Wait, voting in this poll doesn't count as my actual vote? Nuts!
  15. Factually incorrect, you have one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk He didn't say everyone who had a Mister 2 was a cool kid though. In fact, if you want to be pedantic (which I do ), he said all the cool kids have MR2s... plural. Dan only has the one, doesn't he?
  16. Even I would look pretty good on her!
  17. Might have to charge you if they CAN'T fix a problem? Interesting business practice! It's just dirty. Give it a proper clean, job done. I know I've provided instructions for the best way to clean seat belts on here before so use the search (or better still Google) for that.
  18. You've given it to Sky so you can watch Game of Thrones on the 8 foot TV in your bathroom... or something.
  19. Polish. Either by hand if you need a workout or by machine if you're just lazy. You could try a filler glaze which might dull the edges enough to mask some of the damage, but if it's etching it'll need compounding out.
  20. Disclaimer, not watched the video. That'll be Paul Dalton on 5th Gear then? The first time (because it's not a Rolls Royce in that picture). Mr Dalton's PR company explained that he wouldn't normally use a sponge but did so to identify with the general public for the sake of simplicity during the shoot... or something along those lines. Also the Maserati had already been washed several times over that day during the course of the shooting as was, of course, fully prepped beforehand. Aside from repeating the well publicised excuses from a company paid to protect his public image, you should also remember that not all sponges are equal.
  21. Check the contact on the door is fully operational. If that's getting stuck in position, the car doesn't recognise that the door is open.
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