ilogikal1

Nope. Aftermarket solution or live without, they're your options. And where did you bring it from?

Haha would love to mate, but been going back forth on these two options every single day! Will be good to hear peoples opinions on what looks best and any advice on both options. You've basically said in your OP, "I really, really, really want a Chargespeed rear bumper. Something else is cheaper, but I really want that rear bumper." There's absolutely no back and forth in your OP, it's just a plea for someone (anyone) to justify your desire to spend more on a bumper than you want over a diffuser that's just cheaper. Now this may sound harsh but; just STFU and buy the sodding bumper already!

Not for the 19's on the 370Z.

Unless it's a 22B, it's unlikely IMO. I can't even see the 22B's going up much more but they'll probably retain their current value. The RA's (or perhaps even a well looked after R) might perk up by a few quid if enough of the others get removed from existence in one way or another, although it's already difficult enough to find one that's not been "fettled" with let alone in another decade or so, but I can't see them raising in price significantly.

It's like a GT Ultimate, but comes with coffee instead of "t"...

Wouldn't matter anyway, you couldn't possibly reactivate that account's services (even if the account did exist). It's been terminated, not suspended, after all.

Cheers Rosco

You know the rules; pictures or it didn't happen!

Cheers Paul. Heat kills them, so as low as possible really - 30C ideally but 40C would be okay too - and it's best not to tumble dry them either (although if you must, a low setting is better). Use liquid detergent in the washing machine rather than powders as powder will clog up the cloths, and don't use any fabric softener at all. If your cloths are bit worse for wear, you can usually revive them with either a bit of white vinegar in the machine or a dedicated microfibre detergent if you feel like splashing out... and yes, that was a terrible pun.

As I have a job interview on Monday, I've been busy preparing... by washing the Z. A bit of a Slick Rims update follows. First up, I washed the HubiRims wheels using just Cleanmax, Wheel Woolies and a detailing brush to get it spotless (excuse the pun) again. That currently beads like this; Then came the one Slick Rims wheel that hasn't been attacked with anything different to the HubiRims wheel so again this was just with Cleanmax, Woolies and detailing brush - whilst not quite a spotless clean the staining wasn't as problematic this time, but I'll come back to that later. Next up was the wheel that's been attacked with fallout remover twice already. With this one, as the rear tyres are getting changed tomorrow, I decided to try out a wheel cleaner as well as the shampoo wash - in this case it was Auto Finesse Imperial at 5:1, which is midway between the recommended 2:1 for strong cleaning and 10:1 for light and makes it slightly alkaline. That did this to the beading; Except to the centre cap, bizarrely; And this isn't dry by the way... It is spotless though. The final wheel then, the one that's been attacked with fallout remover just once. I washed it with Cleanmax, Woolies and brush as the others, then sprayed half with Imperial, agitated and rinsed off. Let's see if anyone can identify which part is which... An attempt at some 50/50 shots. One spoke cleaned with Imperial, one not. So, a few things to note; Firstly, wheel cleaners. I was aware that coatings don't play well with alkaline products, for the most part they simply reduce the durability of the coating a bit but in this case it appears to remove the product altogether (or at the very least significantly reduce the effectiveness). This isn't exactly a failing coating either, it's still very early on in it's supposed lifespan. However it's fair to advise that if you do use Slick Rims, don't use alkaline wheel cleaners! Although Imperial did lift the staining (as well as the coating!), so there's that. Except, it seems, it didn't remove it from the plastic centre cap, just from the painted wheel... maybe there's a re-branding opportunity there; Slick Rims Plastic/Trim Sealant (if I had any left, I'd actually try it on some trim now, just for lolz). The staining. It could be a one off anomaly, it could be time or distance between cleans related (by which I mean that the wheel will subjected to higher temperatures for longer rather than simply covering x amount of miles) or something else that I've not even considered yet however this time, with fewer miles covered, the staining wasn't as stubborn this clean as it was last time - the vast majority of it washed off without any scrubbing this time. This can (in part) be tested though, as that job interview I mentioned earlier is in London, so I'll be repeating the same journey as last time again next week. Also, with one wheel now being only half coated, I'll be able to tell absolutely whether the problem is caused (or at least exasperated) by Slick Rims. This may also provide a nice contrast with the Slick Rims and brake dust issues that I've been having. Tune in next week for the next exciting episode.

Congratulations.

No problem If I could get away with it, I'd use the plusher cloths for everything. They are great for buffing but just don't have the bite for lifting some cured products though, sadly.

I'd rather own a Duetto Bigfoot and a Mini Bigfoot than 36 of these... but I just want a Duetto and a Mini really.

There's an almost poetic irony in the need for a watch for the impending countdown.

In terms of brands, not really no. There are obviously some that are kinder to the paint than others - the cheap Amazon Basics ones for example are fine for dirty jobs and priced as disposable items, but they're too harsh for paintwork. The Polished Bliss cloths are much kinder for the paintwork, but more expensive so not really disposable. Generally I try to use the deepest pile cloths that will get the job done, so it's a bit of trial and error with new products but as a general rule of thumb for easiest use; I find for removing cured products (like waxes for example) a shorter pile is better as it has more bite to break through the product - I tend to use these for such jobs, they're soft enough not to cause any marring but have enough bite to lift cured products. For 'wipe on/wipe off' or 'wipe on/walk away' products I prefer to use the softest, deepest pile cloth I have available - that's almost always one side of the orange dual pile Waxybox cloths or one of these super-plush jobbies. Coatings tend to come with their own applicators, but micro suede tends to be best for applying and again I usually reach for the Waxybox dual pile cloths for buffing. Glass is just anything to hand with a bit of pile but doesn't lint at all to clean then a final buff with a specific glass cloth like these to shine/remove any streaks. Does that help at all?

I appreciate that, I was just trying to highlight that it has it's limits as to what it can do. As I said, it'll probably be adequate for applying SRP. I'm interested to hear you can change the pads for smaller ones, does that mean that the backing plate is easily changeable too? As for plugging in a resistor to amend the speed, that's great... if you need to use it at lower speed. I can assure you that speed is an issue with these machines if you need it for more than one product. That may mean it's still suitable for some people, but it also means it's not suitable for a lot of people. As for most polishers being the same, that's not true, that's akin to saying all cars are the same; they all transport people from one place to another. There's much more to it than simply rotating. Also, what Ekona said; someone who knows what they're doing is likely to get better results from substandard equipment than someone who doesn't with the absolute best stuff. Of course the guy that knows what he's doing is also going to get much better results still with the best equipment.

Stick it up for sale as it is & set yourself a reasonable deadline. If it sells then you're done, if you get little/no interest then price up the work and see if it's then worth it from there - remember that you can get any/all of the work done at any point. If you're worried about potential buyers thinking it's accident damaged then just document plenty of before and after photos to show it all.

I was using the £4 electrical machinery + £12 "detailing tax" formula. That seems quite typical to me.

I would have a few concerns with this type of polisher (including the Silverline and Draper versions). Firstly there's no speed control - if it just happens to work at the required speed for the compound being used then that's great, but that in turn makes it useless for glazes or waxes as you'll require a lower speed. Secondly the pad size on these tend to be around 9-10". That's huge! It means there's a number of areas you simply couldn't use it on a Z, and a few more where you certainly couldn't use it well! There's a number of others that I have, such as controlling the pressure properly, but I can't be bothered to type them all out at the moment. It's probably adequate for slapping on a layer of SRP, as that's just full of fillers it's always going to give a degree of a good finish, but for doing any proper correction work? I wouldn't even entertain the idea of trying it with this. £16 might sound like a bargain to some, to me it sounds about right.

Are the beers for you or for her?

I know there's often a shade difference between the paint on the plastic and metal panels, but that front bumper looks like a completely different colour to me.

And you provide us with pictures of the view from the window? Poor show, Stu, poor show!

Is it wrong that I immediately thought of this when reading reading the thread title? No. It's got those stupid eyelids on it. What? Oh you meant the colour scheme. As you were then. (I have nothing constructive to add here and I'm not even sorry.)

Your story doesn't add up. There clearly isn't enough parking on that 1st exit for about a mile's worth of queuing cars.