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Everything posted by ilogikal1
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Not a terrible decision, no, I know a few people on here opt for them. They should serve you well enough.
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If they're the products that you have, then that would be the way to go. Depending on how difficult the marring is to remove, you might need to step up on the pad but of its just holograms it shouldn't take much cut to remove. If you're buying compounds and pads again, my preferences are the Hydro-Tech pads and Scholl compounds personally.
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Can I wager on my own test? Considering I have the opportunity to "adjust" the results and all. I just don't want Iron X to win it! There, I've said it, now when (if) it doesn't win, the fanboys can assume it's fixed. Running a fully operational, moon sized Death Star would take more than just soldiers; they'd need everything from medics to mechanics, chefs to cleaners, accountants to admin staff, etc. Now, picture this, you're a chef, and some juicy government job comes your way; you got the wife and kids and the two-story in suburbia - this is a government contract, which means all sorts of benefits. All of a sudden these left-wing militants blast you with lasers and wipe out everyone within a three-mile radius. You didn't ask for that. You have no personal politics. You're just trying to scrape out a living. Those rebel scum were nothing but Terrorists!
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Right then, I've had a change of mind on that there fallout remover test format and I've decided to go straight to the elimination round instead. I'll try, as much as I can, to pit the Waxybox samples against one another and the full size offerings against other full size offerings - this is simply because of the spray pattern which is much more focused with the Waxybox spray heads so I want to try to eliminate this as a factor as much as possible. Rear wheels were removed and they started the day looking like this; Slick Rims wheel (the one that's had everything thrown at it so far, for those of you following at home); Despite the fact that the beading has now been well and truly killed off (since the first application of three alkaline wheel cleaner application some weeks ago now), but the spotting problem is still occurring. HubiRims wheel; Both were then given a wash using FKwhatevernumberitis (#118 - the "super concentrate" stuff that's not very "super" concentrate by today's standards... but I digress). Leaving me with one still spotty wheel; and one clean-but-stone-chipped-to-hell wheel; Out came the fallout removers for the day. Starting with the spotty wheel and; Applied in a shaded area (well, a cloudy day actually) I chose to give Iron Out another chance to see what it can do when it's not just drying out. The drying out issue is a big mark against it still of course. Anyway, this was given ~5 minutes to dwell which gave me this; Not exactly a visceral reaction, but a reaction nonetheless. Absolutely no reaction to the front of the wheel and surprisingly little reaction with the spots, in fact there was more reaction from the old weight tape than the spots! Iron Out was left to dwell for another couple of minutes before being rinsed off, in that time it didn't dry out at all so it's absolutely imperative with Iron Out that it is not used in direct sunlight. Once rinsed, the spots were removed, so it did attack them despite the apparent lack of reaction. In the mean time, the HubiRims wheel was treated to; Again, this was given ~5minutes to dwell which gave me; Not a lot. Again, no reaction at all on the front, but this time very little reaction on the rear either. Deironizer reacted noticeably slower than Iron Out (IO started to react within a minute, whilst Deironizer took nearer 21/2 minutes). Surprisingly neither really reacted with the new wheel weights either... the ones stamped Fe! Again, this was left to dwell for another couple of minutes before being rinsed off. At this point, Deironizer was then applied to the first wheel, that gave me; Virtually nothing, apart from the old weight tape again. There was very little else that reacted at all after another ~8minutes. At which point the clouds parted, so excuse the change of location (to a shaded area) for Iron Out applied to the previously Deironizer'd wheel; Granted the biggest reaction was from the old weight tape again but there were definitely numerous other reactions along with it, certainly much more reaction than the other way around on the other wheel. Therefore, the winner of this round (in the shade) is; Auto Finesse Iron Out > Wolf's Deironizer*. *This win comes (literally) with an asterisk, because Iron Out is actually useless in direct sunlight or on warm surfaces. However, it does win this round, in these conditions. Also, for those interested, the old weight tape was then removed with AutoSmart Tardis, the wheel fitting soap was removed from the back of the tyres and the tyres were also cleaned front & back. A new sealant will be applied to both wheels (anything except Slick Rims!) and the tyres will be dressed front & back before refitting too.
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Still better than the £40-50 versions though.
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95% new member South London
ilogikal1 replied to alexfergs's topic in Introductions & Welcome Messages
That's good then, at least it's been looked after. There's no cambelt to change on these though. ETA; Curses, beaten to it. -
Until manufacturers specifically refuse to sell anyone a car because of their age, then I'm afraid that's just a daft question to be quite frank. If you're worried about not being able to get in or out of one, then try it for yourself and see. Whether you can or not will have nothing to do with your age though and even less to do with whether a group of people (largely strangers) on the internet think you can/could/should/might.
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95% new member South London
ilogikal1 replied to alexfergs's topic in Introductions & Welcome Messages
Price looks about right for a dealer; perhaps a touch high due to the lack of Rays wheels, cheap & mismatched tyres and bolster wear on the seat but not by much (if any really, after a bit negotiating). I wouldn't worry too much about the tyre wear, it'll naturally munch rear tyres quicker than fronts no matter how you use it. The bolster wear would irritate me personally, but if it's just cosmetic it wouldn't be a deal breaker - rather just another bargaining point. I probably missed this bit, but what's the service history like? -
Halfords just screwed my car? (spark plug issue)
ilogikal1 replied to Oggieteepo's topic in 350Z Technical
Just abandon the car where it is, buy a new one and send the bill to Halfords. I'm sure they'll just pay up, their tool has clearly caused irreparable damage to that one after all. -
why has my mobile switched to the desktop site?
ilogikal1 replied to Garyt350z's topic in 350Z General
Scroll down to the bottom left hand corner, click on the "use mobile site" (or something like that). -
Conor's Night Blue 350z 'Build Thread'
ilogikal1 replied to CPhillips93's topic in Member Build Projects
He used GTechniq C5. -
"They" (by which I largely refer specifically to Bernie) keep it because "their" interest is easily measurable... If the numbers following the £ on the cheque they're handed are big enough they are still interested.
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so if i click exhaust change and intake change i can fit a turbo Of course you can! You won't be legally insured, but you can still fit one.
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Ah, I get you now.
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I have a few suggestions...
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I can't quite work out if it's meant as such, but that reads to me as "you should try to elect someone who won't give you what you want rather than let someone else elect someone (else) who won't give you what you want". I'm not sure I see the logic there? I don't agree with that. If you don't vote, you have the most right to complain because you certainly didn't elect them to that position. If you vote for the victorious party, you have no right to complain; you put there there after all.
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... for the summer.
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*awaits another "Kwik Fit destroyed my wheels" thread*.
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Looks like a VI, judging by the badge on the boot.
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Aaaaaaaaaand that's just ruined my whole childhood. And most of my adulthood too actually.
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It depends how heavy the scratches are from the previous grade - the intention of working up the grades is that you're slowly smoothing out the grain each step - so by missing a grade, you may not fully remove the scratches from the previous step and might end up with a less-than-smooth surface which will show under the paint, as Bradders explained earlier. On the other hand, if you're not too heavy handed, it's possible to skip a grade or two. IIRC I went through 240, 400, 800, 1200 & 1500 before painting, then either 2500 or 3000 between primer & top coat when I did mine.
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But, but, but (excuses shamelessly stolen from another thread)... ...so surely driving like that is perfectly okay because he's driving a Z, right?!
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SSQV now sold. The Defi's are still available though.
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I'm using this one. Only used it with Torque Pro so far and it's been fine (on all three of my phones, the current one being the S5), I've been meaning to try NDS but haven't got round to it yet.