ilogikal1

That's surprising to me. As someone who has worked on a whole one Vauxhall (an a new Astra VXR) I certainly wouldn't say it had soft paint. You could stick to the 203S and tangerine pad, but if the paint is harder then the rate of correction will be slower so it'll be more work. It's entirely up to you though, it's not my car you're working on after all. I found that chart too - it's very limited in the brands it shows but it should give you an idea;

This is what I was getting at. Admiral will only pay out a maximum of £500 to cover ALL modifications, but only if you take out modification cover with the policy otherwise they will pay out a grand total of knack all. But they will load your premium regardless.

Good luck with that. Ah, this is a different matter - harder paint, y'see. Personally I'd step up a stage with the polish first - my choice would be Scholl S17+ but if you want to stick with Menz, 234 would be the one - on the tangerine pad still, if that doesn't get the results you're after, step up to the pad too, that being the Cyan Hydro Tech. Be warned though with that level of cut from either polish or pad, especially on black, you're likely going to have to do a 2 stage polish - heavier cut to remove the defects, then refine with a lighter cut combination to get the shine (which on harder paint would probably 85RE on the tangerine pad - a combination that would be moderate-to-heavy cut on soft paint.... confused yet? ). Just for reference, microfibre pads typically have considerably more cut than foam pads. Denim pads have more cut than microfibre pads. And Reyon pads will remove good paint from metal surprisingly quickly.

Compounding pad That be them, cheers.

To answer your first question, 85RE is a finishing compound, for more cut use the 203S from that kit. However, I gather from your previous posts that you've already been using this, is that right? If not, try 203S on the Tangerine pad and work it well before checking. To answer your second question; both. Polishing pads come in various degrees of cut, as do with compounds so both actually do some of the work. Most pads fall into the same general category - no cut, finishing (light cut - like the Crimson one you have), polishing (medium cut - the Tangerine one) and heavy cut (if they have a name, it currently eludes me) - but some also offer "in between" pads too, which are halfway between the one above and the one below. Most retailers are nice and will arrange them in terms of cut level on their website, others not so much so. There's a chart floating about on Detailing World somewhere which if no one else provides, I will dig out for you when I have more time.

What your colleagues died unexpectedly or the watches? Both. His Mrs' opened the credit card bill and beat him to death with his new, unauthorised purchase...

Subtle undercar neons? Practical? I just have no words...

Keep each for another six months and earn an extra year's ncb...? Just a thought. The NCBs keep accumulating as it's just a vehicle change on the policy Okay, even without the NCB... er, bonus, you'd still avoid that hike if you just kept a car for for a whole year.

Admiral also don't actually cover mods (over a total of £500) but will gladly charge you a premium do (not) do so... If the bumpers and paint aren't urgent, and I suspect they're not, just wait until renewal and move insurers who will cover you.

Keep each for another six months and earn an extra year's ncb...? Just a thought.

Have you got an example of that then?

First neons, now lambo doors. Have I woken up in the 90's again?!

The exhaust most certainly was.

FTFY.

Could be a dodgy production batch. If Nat. Tyres have confirmed the depth is wrong, take it back and get them to stick a new set on.

The R34 GT-R v-spec II in Bayside Blue is pretty. It's not beautiful, but it is pretty.

It wouldn't be, we'd all like it....

I'll aim to polish no more than twice a year. I'm actually even trying to cut that down to once during the summer prep and using a filler glaze any other time. But if it doesn't need it, it's not worth the effort let alone the paint depth conundrum.

That's the one. Cheers Stu Regarding waxing after polishing, in short yes. Buy as above it doesn't have to be a wax, you can use a sealant or coating. What you've seen on youtube is likely to be either a spray wax or spray sealant - spray on, wipe off.

Yes, Menz are forever changing their numbering systems - PF2400 = 203S and SF4000 = 85RE. Sorry for the confusion. If it's the correction that you're not getting, i.e. you're left with swirls, then stick with the PF2400/203S on the tangerine pad but work it for longer - you should be spending a good two or three minutes on each section, but basically just keep at it until you start to see some correction. Also, it may seem like you're not getting anywhere if you're doing a whole panel at once rather than in sections when actually you're just getting consistent, albeit insufficient, correction across the panel so the small gains you're getting aren't as evident. Have a read through the bottom section of this, "Step by Step Guide - How To Polish Your Paint Safely And Effectively By Machine" before having another go and see if there's anything there that you're not doing/doing differently and go from there. Regarding the dust, always do it away from the car and never underestimate just how far a machine polisher will sling.

My sample tin has lasted 8 years, let alone 8 applications. Fairly regular use too. I wonder why FK are still manufacturing 1000P, surely there's enough of it in a dozen or so tins do everyone forever?!?

Simple solutions are the best, but in lieu of that allow me to suggest neon light tube piping with a multicolour control unit. Then you don't need to decide. HTH.

There's probably a dozen other terms for it to be fair, but spurring was the term I've been taught. I just wanted to highlight the difference between "in use" pad cleaning and "f**k it, I'm giving up for the day" pad cleaning.

Wash the pads out after you're finished for the day (hot, soapy water then just knead the pad with your thumb until it's clean) or when the pad gets too clogged with spent polish - simply switch pads if you're not finished, that's why the kit includes 2 of each. Ekona is referring to spurring the pad in between sections, you should do that regularly throughout the polishing process to remove spent polish from the pad and you'll get more consistent results. You say you're using the tangerine pad and 203S which is the combination with most cut. For more gloss, do a few passes on a section with 85RE on the crimson pad - less cut, more gloss - and see how that comes up. By a few passes, I mean work the polish properly until it's gone completely clear at speed 4-5, a section is about 18x18 inches. Your other question about priming the pad with water, there are many ways to prime the pad and a spritz of water or QD is one of them, but which to use is entirely your choice really, there is no one, definitive best method. Although use either water or polish to prime, no need for both.

Yes, a wax will seal it in and the finish should (in theory) last longer but at the very least it'll increase the protection.