roscopervis

The HR is better, no question, but the DE is a fine engine also.

Forget claybars, claycloths/claymitts are the way forward!

It's amazing stuff. I've got the Sonax Polymer Netshield Sealant to use for this winter. It's the hardcore version of the BSD, should last all winter easy.

Dynamat or the alternatives all do the same thing - add mass to the panels to minimise vibrations and thus road noise. I suppose it depends how far you want to go. Doors would be worthwhile, I think for the boot area, may be better to get a thicker carpet.

After a couple of weekends of bad weather it was time to impart some suds and love on the cars today. Out with the PW, snowfoam and buckets. No pics of the process, everyone knows what a soapy Zed looks like! Here are the afters: Wash - Bilt Hamber AutoFoam, then AutoGlym Bodywork Conditioner Shampoo. Wearing: Body - Collinite 915 souped up with about 6 layers of Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer. (Not applied today, The wax went on in April and I add a layer of BSD every third wash or so.) Wheels - Finish Kare 1000P Hi Temp Sealant (Applied in April) Tyres - Meguiars Edurance Tyre Gel. Glass - G-Technic G5 (Applied early July)

I would like a kit too if it's not too late.

Maximum of two protein shakes a day, one right after training. If female, unless you are doing big weights a lot, for a long time, you will not get muscly - you won't have the testosterone for it to happen. Weights should be integral to your fitness regime if you want to stay slim and keep weight off however. Weight training burns calories for longer efficient muscles need more calories to work generally. You also need the right blend of carbs in the meal after training to make best use of the protein to avoid the muscle aches. The only time you should eat simple carbs really.

Cheap gazebo?

You had me at "cheaper" Bought a pair of Goodyear eagle f1, get them fitted on Friday. If these tyres are as good as the reviews suggest, it'll be 1 less excuse I'll have if I end up In a hedge Good choice.

If you were to get 8 and 8.5 inch width wheels to match the Rays, as they have an offset of 30 on the front and 33 on the rear, people tend to put a 20mm and 25mm spacer on effectively making these wheels have an offset of 10 and 8. So you'd be looking for a set of aftermarkets with offsets of around 10. If you went to 8.5 and 9 inch rear wheel (keeping it staggered and not stretching the tyres too much) the offsets would be similar hovering around 5-10ish I reckon. Who the heck buys new aftermarket wheels only to put spacers on?!

I usually leave it on just in general driving, but with spirited driving like the recent drive we had over the Black Mountain to Builth it was off all the way. It does get in the way and got the front brake thing a couple of times when trying to catch up, so its a sign that's as fast as you need to go on the road. The old S14a had no such TC and that didn't spin into a fiery pit, in fact it was a great tool to learn and grow with. The Zed is more even more pliable and linear due to the lack of a huge glob of torque as the boost kicks in and the wheels in the corner balance. I do think you need to be aware of the behaviour of the rwd car and not fear it. Plus it makes your car faster.

The fluid is condensation which forms when the hot exhaust cools, plus the cooling of the air most places get at night. It's just trying to get out and is choosing the places where the exhaust seems to be corroding/failing. Short term you should look to get these bits welded up. Longer term you're looking at a new exhaust.

I would experiment with both and see which you prefer. If you do both, sealant first, then leave it a week, then add wax after the next wash. The wash wax product doesn't wax the car but is meant to try and top up any protection there may be. I don't like these products usually as they can interfere with the properties of the last stage product (wax or sealant) on the car and make the water behaviour or shine actually worse. Don't worry too much about colour specific waxes, 97% of the final look comes from the polishing and prep stages. The wax is for protection of those stages and colour charging is a gimmick. They will all look good, though I suppose the red would be the one that they would suggest for your car.

Smells lovely? I agree this is a great wax but as far as smells go, it isn't great! Smells lovely? I agree this is a great wax but as far as smells go, it isn't great! Yes, it smells lovely. I just went and had another sniff, to make sure I wasn't wrong - and indeed it smells lovely. Best smelling wax is nattys blue.. Like bubblegum That is a nice smelling wax.

IPA at 10% strength (of 100%) is plenty strong enough to strip waxes and do the things you need it to do on the car.

Certain JVC units are top notch for sound quality, but even the cheaper ones sound pretty darn good.

Seconding the FK1000p plan, which also works excellently on the rest of the car. However, the best wheel cleaner I've tried is Bilt Hamber Auto Wheels which has been the most effective of the 'bleeding' cleaners that I've tried.

Fusso Soft 99 is pure sealant in a tub. Their Authentic product is a wax. I really like the Soft 99, great product.

Having had both the S14a was generally about 3-4 mpg better than the Zed when running at stage 1, though could easily get 38 mpg on a motorway run, whereas the Zed will get 33 max. Sounds like the S14a is drinking abnormally! Have you checked the lambda sensor? Unplug it see how that changes things.

Three years then!

It depends on what you're ultimately aiming to achieve with the finish; wet look/depth/flake pop/gloss? Budget? Are looks or durability more important? That said, from the keyboard of a man with experience; On a black car for concours, it's amazing! It's probably their best wax in terms compromise between looks and durability, however as appearance is very much subjective it's impossible to say one way or the other, and both PH Pro and BV Pro will give Hybrid a run for it's money in terms of durability... but all three would left for dead by FK1000P. Second to none? I wouldn't agree with that, personally. It's good, but it's not the pinnacle of all things wax (or hybrids, because I know someone reading this is going to bring that up!). None of them can hold a candle in terms of durability to Bilt Hamber's Finis Wax which of course is another hybrid. Sleep over on Detailing World did a Canadian winter test using Finis Wax, FK1000p and Collinite 476 and found that Finis Wax wax the most durable, Collinite second and FK1000p third.

Also to note, you don't have to wax above a sealant, if it offers the look you are going for. I'm on the sealant train at the moment.

There's probably some rust or other crud on the mating surface between the disc and the hub which is amplifying the imbalance when braking. Discs these days never warp but pad deposits can build up causing dtv issues. If pad deposits are suspected, the posted link and the bedding in procedure should be followed. If that doesn't work, take off the disc to clean the hub surfaces.

Less skittish on the next south Wales blast then?:-D

Solventy yes, some people like that I suppose.