roscopervis

Thanks, but I have enough! It really is decent so if anyone wants to take Ricey up on this, you could do far worse.

It's a very good example so get what you can, it's value will be more to those that understand cars than the general public.

I have a contrary opinion, I really rate SRP, if used correctly. The new formula (post 2012) is very good at cleaning and filling and I prefer it to Poorboys and it also provides a good base for sealants, including Collinite. I agree in using just one of the Collinite or the EGP (which is an old fashioned liquid sealant that requires quite a long cure time before buffing), because of that I'd use the Collinite out of what you have, but there are better hybrid waxes and sealants than this that are both easier to use and more durable.

It doesn't happen to me, seriously. It's the epitome of calmness!

Despite being unlocked, the driver's side door is stuck shut both from the outside and the inside. I assume that means the latch mechanism has broken and I need a new one. Apart from Nissan, who sells these on here and how much are they? The next step will then be trying to open the door!

It's a DE then, the HR redline should start at 7500.

I was just going to say I just use normal car shampoo and they come up nice and shiny, but then mine are powder coated and black! Shampoo will get rid of the superficial dirt and make them look shiny, so looks fine with the naked eye. The point of products like BH is that it goes red/purple, this is the product removing the micro particles of hot metal that embed themselves onto your wheels during day to day driving which will be left behind after your wipe down with wash mitt and shampoo. BH is PH neutral so not harsh and will not damage wheel finish. Chirag! its funny, since I moved I could possibly use that pressure washer now as its easy to get parked outside, oh how I spend many an evening pining for my little blue pressure washer Any fairly strong chemical product, water based or not, will degrade a sealant more than a normal car soap would. I know the function of what these wheel cleaners are for, but if you properly clean and seal your wheels, soap wand water and a wheel brush will get it clean enough. The benefits are two fold. One, you save time, two, these wheel cleaners are really expensive so you save a load of money too.

Once a year give the wheels a good clean with a good bleeding wheel cleaner like Bilt Hamber's Auto Wheel, which is like their fallout remover Korrosol, but with added degreasers as well, then with a good tar remover. Then give them a good sealing/coating so that all you will need is soap and water. The less harsh the washing mechanism, the longer the wheel coating will last. A good coating like Gtechniq C1 will last a year, something like FK1000P will last about 3 months, but this is obviously dependent on mileage. You shouldn't have to use harsh cleaners on sealed or coated wheels. All bleeding products that have a fallout remover element will smell bad to some extent, some have a scent to disguise, though the base will always be rotten eggs.

My last set of front pads - Mintex standards were pretty terrible and were causing big judder issues. Just by changing these to Ferodo DS2500's and a spirited drive (which turned the Mintex's to biscuits) sorted it out.

I actually think that 2 layers of FK1000p will last longer than a layer of FK1000p and a layer of Natty's. The Natty's will act as a sacrificial layer, but it's water behaviour and self cleaning ability are less good than the FK1000p. Also, re Junkman - I wouldn't know

Yes it applies like a traditional wax, but I'd think of all sealants and waxes as last stage products (LSP's). Natty's is decent but to my mind, the FK1000p is a superior product. It's job is to protect the paint which it does much better than the Nattys. The looks part doesn't come from the final LSP, it comes from the decontamination (detarring, de-ironing and claying) and the polishing, which removes or tries to cover the imperfections in the paint. That's where the DA really comes into it's own and that's it's job. When it comes to LSP's I focus on durability, ease of use and self cleaning ability as looks wise they are virtually all the same. Junkman has some videos on Youtube on this. This is very subjective, much like hi-fi cable debates, all I'll say is add 2 layers to ensure coverage of a durable product over a well prepped surface and you're set.

I'll back the FK1000P recommendation, very versatile and great VFM. I'd also throw in a couple of others - Bilt Hamber Double Speed Wax (it is a sealant in the same way FK1000P is), Sonax Polymer Netshield (PNS) and Fusso Soft 99 Light. They are slightly more durable on paint than the FK, don't have the high temp qualities, but still work well on wheels. Jetseal is meh, was all the rage about 8 years ago, not that great TBH, there are lots of things much better.

The Fusso Soft99 is a really good product, though the dark/light combo's are a bit unnecessary. The light one is much easier to use and they look the same. It lasts a very long time and is a go to LSP for me, get a big tin for the price.

Think of yourself on a pushbike - one with gears. You wouldn't ride around on the hardest to pedal gear when going slow, it's hard work. Similarly, you wouldn't be in the really easy gear when going fast, It's the same for the engine, it uses more energy thus fuel when accelerating from low revs in a high gear than it would in a comforable to spin gear. When cruising along, this is slightly changed, provided you don't need any kind of acceleration,6th is ok. The amount of throttle dictates how much fuel you use, the time you're using it therefore has an impact - accelerate briskly, without using too much throttle for best mpg.

On my DE 350 I have DC Sports Manifolds, Berks Hi Flow cats and the Invidia True Dual. Pretttttttty nice. The Invidia got rid of the rasp the Berks introduced with the standard exhaust.

C'mon these are just waiting to slot into the right car!

Best I've used, including Bosch Aerotwin's. Recommended.

And with that any payout will be a price based on a bog standard, non-GT 350Z. At best. At worst, they'll deny the whole conversation, void the policy (undeclared "modifications") and land you in a world of ****. Either way, sack them off and change insurers to someone willing to cover you for what your car actually is. Yup, I have to agree. As soon as a car gets half exotic, it's worth getting a specialist insurer to cover the actual car and any mods like for like.

I see you all the time! It's a shame I'm usually in my Leon, but heyho.

http://smg.photobuck...2243_1.mp4.html Further update, hopefully with video if phone allows. Same story as before, PNS and DSW are acting identically, 915 a bit different, but all clearly working. Video taken on rinse following snow foaming. (Sorry, phones!)

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/roscopervis/media/Cars/20150612_112243_1.mp4.html/URL] Further update, hopefully with video if phone allows. Same story as before, PNS and DSW are acting identically, 915 a bit different, but all clearly working. Video taken on rinse following snow foaming.

Yes indeed. The paint needs to gas out fully before applying any kind of protection. Ask the refurber for his advice as to how long that would be.

Roll up, roll up!

The 1000p won't discourage brake dust so much, but will make the wheels much easier to clean.

A wax or a sealant. Read some reviews as to what you want, again a lot of Meguiars 'waxes' are technically sealants i.e. chemically derived resins, polymers and things that protect the paint. Some 'show' waxes give a really wet look, but don't last very long, more durable products are said not to look as good. Get the polishing stage done well and anything will look fantastic, so I prescribe to the 'get the easiest to use but lasts a decent amount of time' strategy. I'm a big fan of the Sonax range - Polymer Netshield is easy peasy to use and lasts 6 months and makes the car easy to clean to. Bilt Hamber products are also great value for money. I've recently started testing Double Speed Wax (a very sealanty wax) which so far behaves almost exactly like Polymer Netshield, but you get loads more applications in the tin. Another long term favourite is Finish Kare FK1000P Hi Temp Sealant - this has the advantage of being resistant to heat so not only has a very nice appearance on the paint, works very well as a wheel and exhaust wax too. Massive tin that will last the life of the car or a sample tin for a £5 from Serious Performance which would (should) do a car at least 8 times.