roscopervis

That's one to strike off the list.

Mostly.

They are great. I've got one, used it loads, not just on my cars, but on friends too - it's a convincing experience to let them feel it get smooth under their own hands. Despite using it loads, it's still as good as new too - I'd say a dozen times so far.

So even Esso at Cross Hands have stopped doing Supreme Unleaded? Weird! I use Tesco mostly, or Shell if it's cheap. Octane boosters don't boost the RON by 1 - so from 95 to 96, they boost it by 0.1 so from 95 to 95.1. Con! Stick to the proper petrol, will just need some advanced planning, that's all.

Open to offers.

For sale I have a pair of Alezan leather seats from a 2003 350z. They are in a good condition for their age, I've cleaned them up prior to sale. The passenger seat is obviously in much better condition than the drivers. I've put them up for sale before, but, when they didn't sell, I put them back in the car - they do look good! Problem is I don't have space for two sets of seats, and the missus is having a bit of a fit, so I'm selling the ones in best condition. All the electrics work fine. I'm looking for £400 plus delivery, though if willing to collect, that would be excellent!

A bit harsh! It's durable, but very difficult to use, a pain in fact. It will also look good if the prep is good, but time has moved on and there are products that are much easier to use and not nearly as fussy.

Supernatural or Supernatural Hybrid from Dodo are the ones I'd also choose.

For simplicity, after using lots of combinations over time, the Menzerna's, the old Meguiars, the 3M's etc, I really can't say enough good things about Meguiars Ultimate Compound. It is a consumer version of their 105 compound polish, so it is easier to use and more forgiving, can be worked a long time and finishes down very well on a wide range of paints. It really is a one stop shop. Keep the speed down, keep the pressure low and you should be fine.

The shine comes from the prep, so I'd get a clay bar/cloth/mit and a good polish. That is the stage that makes the difference. You can't go wrong with Autoglym Super Resin Polish, but these stages take some hard work unfortunately. Any wax/sealant on top will look good on a properly polished surface. Any wax or sealant will look bad on a badly prepped surface.

I've been quiet lately, been travelling. Back now and after reading this will back up Illogikal's view. My favourite is Bilt Hamber's, but there is a deal on Car Chem's at the moment and it is close enough (and more concentrated) so that it is arguably better value for money.

I love detailing but rarely get round to taking pictures! I do have instagram but most my shots are from holidays and stuff. If you use your imagination, you could probably work out my name on there!

Both cars are filthy and its cold! Should be good to see how the PNS is doing when I can get round to washing it, but still haven't had a chance to start a LSP test on my Seat.

Fusso Soft 99 is very durable, and I wouldn't top it at all, not even with Collinite. Soft 99 is a sealant and has excellent water behaviour, better even than Collinite and from what I've seen, I think will be at least as durable. I think you're thinking of Fusso Authentic Wax which is another excellent product, but isn't that durable itself. In the summer, it's been known for people to top the Soft 99 with the Authentic, for looks*. In winter however, this would be counter productive as you would lose the sealant benefits of the Soft 99. If you want the most durable wax with carnauba in it, the Finis Wax by Bilt Hamber is it. *I'm of the opinion that looks come from the prep work anyway and the lsp's job is to protect the paint and adds very little, if anything to the looks IF the prep (decontamination/polishing and what not) has been done right.

I rate them highly. Slightly worse in the dry compared to MPSS, but slightly better in the wet.

Will do, was gonna start to prep it today but ate something dodgy so just watched the GP instead.

This is like BSD on steroids. It's like BSD is Ribena dilute, this is Ribena straight from the bottle, no water. If it does start to fail (I'm not expecting it to by March/April) then a squirt of BSD will be enough to top it up for at least a month, with the two hopefully working well together. This stuff has even better water behaviour and even better self cleaning. Sonax have an excellent range of products out currently. Saying that, Bilt Hamber AutoWheels is the equal of the wheel cleaner and is cheaper, if you need an alternative.

I had a day off on Friday and the weather remained half decent during daylight hours so I took the opportunity to do the winter prep and protection clean on the ol' Zed (minus the wheels, will do them next available day). Did the whole caboodle, with full decontamination, claycloth, selective machine polish on certain areas (usually like to do a decent one at the start of summer), and onto the application of the Sonax Polymer Net Shield an aerosol based sealant. Two layers have been added. I'm hoping that it will last the full winter by itself and I'm going to update this with pictures of the finish and protection offered by the product. The can states six months protection. The attractiveness of this product is the ease of use - spray on a microfibre pad, apply with light strokes and thats it. If over-applied it will need a light buffing but it shouldn't really. Also, it's not a slick product, but that's not the idea - it's an incredible water beader and offers superb self cleaning properties, so over the winter I'm going to try and get away with as many touchless washes using snowfoam only as possible. Less touching, less scratches. I know it won't be 100%, but the main idea is to keep the salt and other bad stuff away. It rained heavily Friday night, I drove the car back from the train station (after watching the weirdest game of rugby!) and the water just fell off the car once moving. The car is still clean, whereas most products would have lefts watermarks following that deluge and drive through the rain. So a good start. Was toying with an Illogikal style test, but instead will try that on the workhorse (Seat Leon) instead. Here's the full list of products used: Turtlewax Ice Wheel Cleaner used also as iron remover (Can be picked up for £2 or less from Tesco Extras - works well!) Bilt Hamber Autofoam Muc-off Ubershine shampoo Tardis A no name £12.95 fine grade clay cloth Meguiars Ultimate Compound (Very versatile and finishes well) used with a Milwaukee AP12 rotary. Meguiars Stage 1 Paint Cleaner IPA (12.5%) Wipe down. Sonax PNS. GTechniq G5 on glass. Not too much iron contamination on the paint. Just now after the rain, still very clean.

The best snow foam I've used is Bilt Hamber's. Excellent cleaning power and even works very well as a prewash through a pump sprayer.

The thing many need to realise is that the 350 isn't a particularly hard car to work on generally. It's quite old school so why it would have to go to a Japanese specialist, I don't know. changing the brake pads, for example, is about as easy as it gets for any car. I know it's your pride and joy, but it isn't a really complicated or annyoing French car, for example. Most things are easy to do and any decent garage will be able to sort you out.

Nope, just 4 bolts and a couple of plugs. Easy peasy.

I think I could get loads of layers out of a 15 ml pot. Also, putting on many layers of wax a day doesn't allow the previous layer to cure, so you just wipe the previous away. Many carnauba waxes need about a day to cure properly. Some products do allow quick layering, but these are usually sealants. Finish comes from the prep work mainly. Any last stage product adds very little in reality, particularly if you don't know what's on the car. It's a bit like the red wine or hi-fi cable debates. IMO of course.

These are still for sale.

A polish - a product with abrasives in, will ruin the wrap. A wax, or sealant which won't be abrasive will be OK.

I'd also disagree! For me, RE50's are the benchmark for the Zed, and for me F1's are clearly better than the benchmark, something like F452's are a bit below. Kuhmo's have never been better than average for me.