scubapics

I agree with you. I'd get the bumper and the rash sprayed at the same time. Along with the bonnet as you must have plenty on there too. I'm waiting to get my bumper and bonnet done but I'm skint until my boss gets me a pay rise sorted out for taking on the work of my other boss and some is his boss's work as they've both left and haven't been replaced. Ho hum. At least I've got a job.

Ok. Here's a helpful reply I've done my own bonnet stone chips - cocktail stick and paint. Just tiniest amount of paint on the stick and touch it in. Build it up proud of the chip. Then leave a week to fully dry. Now you can wet sand. Use a small amount ot wet and dry paper. Always keep it wet. 1500 grit or higher. The higher the better as the polishing will be easier but I've done it with 1500 and had great results. Once flat, use Megs Scratch X to bring the gloss back. I did a full guide somewhere. I don't think it ever made it into the guides section though. But! I would not dream of doing this on plastic. The paint is so thin that the wet and dry sanding will go right through to the plastic underneath in no time. Best to get it resprayed professionally. Jim

I'm glad you found it. I bet you feel relieved. Use some foam draught excluder which has sticky tape on one side. It should provide enough resistance to hold it firmly in place against other items. I'd also recommend using a plastic spatular to prise off the plastic rather than a screw driver. It's also possible to do it with just fingers but not as easily.

Don't drive so close to the car in front?

The Black GT could be me. First part of my reg is RV55. I usually see a blade coming into Crowthorne about 8:30 coming down Wellingtonia Ave - I think he lives in Hartley Wintney. Sometimes I get a wave, sometimes I don't. Sometimes a blade follows me down Waterloo Rd and Dukes Ride in the morning from the High Street in Crowthorne. There seems to be quite a few around. Jim

Start looking for a new job now. Don't delay. One will eventually come up and the longer you leave it, the longer it will be before you can quit. Jim

Which road?

I've tried to make sense of you rambling - probably brought on by the shock no doubt. Sounds to me that they are saying that the rocker oil seal has gone and this is causing oil to enter the recess where the plugs are screwed into the head. The oil may have caused the seals on the coil caps on the spark plugs to go as well. All sounds plausible. Go see them and ask them to show you/explain. If that's all it is then it shouldn't be much bother to fix. Nothing major. Good luck. Jim

I had my zed when i was 23/24.... and it cost me £2550 to insure. Then when i turned 25, it dropped down to £700. So 25 does still have an impact! I can't say that's been, my experience. I've never paid much more than £400 for insurance but then I only had basic cars when I was younger. Jim

I thought the rattle/squeak was due to the boot rubbers as well. But it was actually the four spare wheel nuts (made spare when replaced with locking wheel nuts) in the tool kit vibrating against each other. One I removed them, the rattle stopped. Just got a minor squeak/rattle coming from the top/back of the dash left to cure. Jim

What's that for?

How do you tell the difference? Jim

Especially where the pay out is not for car parts! Imagine is someone lost a limb or their life and you were not negligent. The financial liability would be more than you could ever bear! Jim

As far as I know, by law you can take it anywhere as long as they use Nissan approved parts to maintain the warranty. So take it to a local garage that you trust or one of the garages (Abbey?) that are mentioned on this forum. Jim

Thanks chaps! I'll be keeping the space saver in the boot then and now feel a whole lot better knowing if I get a nail in the center section / slow puncture that I can get a repair down without having to buy a whole new tyre. Jim

Now that you've mentioned it in an open forum, you must put the correct information on your application. Insurance companies / police have been known to trawl forums for evidence. As you say, you already know the answer - you are not doing yourself any favours by being dishonest. Insurance never really comes down. It's a fact of life! It's a fallacy that when you reach 25 your insurance drops - at least that's been my experience. Jim

Does anyone know if the Bridgestone RE050A run flats? I've had a look at my RE050A tyres and there's nothing on the side walls to indicate that they are run flats. Bridgestone's website isn't particularly helpful. It gave me the impression that it should say RFL somewhere. Jim

Black looks so good when clean and highly polished. But it's so hard to keep clean :-( I'm not looking forward to the tree pollen!

I've seen something like this before. It could be an egg within an egg.

PS. I know you had a hard time of it but here's something positive to take from it all: Accepted is not the same as "expected"

I'd have gone somewhere else! You should be able to cancel the credit agreement as the supplier has not fulfilled your contract of sale. Jim

I find that it is easier to read the oil level on the back face of the dipstick. Seems to give a cleaner "line" compared to the front face which appears to get distorted or mucked about with as you pull the dipstick out. Jim

Hi all, Just had my Rays refurbushed at The Wheel Specialist (Swindon branch) who specialise in powder coating wheels. Normally they can complete a whole set in a day but this time it took them 2 days as they were not happy with the finish the first time round. Cost was 60+vat per wheel (they discounted the £10 per wheel strip, refit and balancing). They're also doing a discount for my Jeep as I've had one vehicle done with them already - 50+vat per wheel. One wheel needs to be redone as the silver/chrome paint has crinkled. They didn't fit the wheel when I came to collect just in case I would leave the car for another day but I couldn't so they will re-do the wheel at my convenience and knock another 50 quid off the cost. They are a family run center. Very friendly, no hastle, and were very keen to do a perfect job without any need for me to "encourage" them. So hats off to them for their excellent service. Before refurbishment, my alloys were suffering the usual peeling and bubbling paint on the spokes as well as kurbing damage. Black chrome seemed to be the best colour match (they will do exact match if you wish but they'll need to order the paint). Normally black chrome is black powder coat with the face of the wheel chromed/silvered leaving the inside face black and then all finished with gloss lacquer. I decided to take the silver/chrome all the way through the wheel to be more like the original finish. They would do a satin lacquer if you wanted but I was happy with the gloss. The wheels now look like polished metal with a lacquer finish and are stunning against the gloss black deep shine of my Z. The chrome/silver also matches the door handles quite well so it does not look out of place which was my main concern. Hopefully this is of some help to others who are thinking of getting their wheels refurbished. Jim

Thanks. Just as I thought - rusty :-( Anyone have any thoughts of a treatment to stop the rust on the outer edges of the column that the wheel joins. The OEM discs have some form of grey coating to prevent rust. Jim

Any chance of a photo of them the other way around? I'd like to know if the center has rusted or are they treated so that they do not rust as per the OEM disks. Ta, Jim