scubapics

I'm guessing nobody can supply these as i've had no replies from Zmanalex, R35LEE or nurrish.

That's most likely me (RV55). Mine's black, with led side lights and that's my usual route home coming from Yately into Sandhurst. Would have been about 5:10pm. With the number of Zs in the area we should do a meet at the Frog and Wicket in Eversely Cross. Saw a silver Z this morning at the Iron Duke pub junction in Crowthorne and got a wave. And then a black 370z on the A327 from Eversley to A30. There's plenty about. Also plenty of Jags, Aston Martins and Bentleys. I need to get a Mustang to be more unique round here ;-) Jim

It could be. Neve seen one in the flesh. Can you get cover plates for the hole below the screen where the buttons would go? Jim

I'm building my own car pc so need a retractable satnav cubby to mount my lilliput monitor in. Does anyone have one they'd like to sell or know where I can buy one? Must be in tip top condition. Before you say it, I've pm'd both of the usual suspects and neither have replied Jim

I'll take this if I may please. Jim

So which one for the 350z? Organic or inorganic? Jim

I see. It's the same design as in the link on the first post right?

Ok. So the relays are n/c or n/o when the car is locked and then energised when unlocked and ignition on. So only a current draw when engine is running? Are you going to post a parts list, circuit diagram and vero layout for those of us who can build their own?

Is that constant current draw? If constant, i.e. lock the car, windows fold, leave over night, week, etc with a constant 0.5amp draw.... flat battery?

Is there any current draw when locked and unlocked?

Sweet! So the switch is completely redundant once this is fitted? Toggling it will not fold/unfold the mirrors manually?

Could you post some information that lists the functionality please? I'm somewhat confused by all the emails and no longer have a clear picture of exactly what it will do. I know it automatically opens and closes the mirrors but under what circumstances? Is it only when the door lock is open and closed and with the fold switch in "neutral" or something else?

I wouldn't get too worked up about it. Boring boring boring bog off and winge in your top gear is crap thread No

I wouldn't get too worked up about it. Boring boring boring

Am I allowed to say bad things about TG in this thread?

Me too.

Unlikely that I'll be going there in my Z or any other car for that matter. I wouldn't mind a French alp tour though.

Unless you are on a track you're not going to get it up to that sort of speeds. And i'm not track/wrecking my Z for anyone. But, I'm still tempted for more response on the open road. Right now though, I'm happy with it the way it is. Jim

Hey Will. Do you mind listing what else you are going to get done? I've thought about getting a remap done but a little concerned that it would be too twitchy in first. Jim

I do agree with you about the number of years plugs stay in cars now. I've even heard of plugs siezing in after 1 year - my nephew had this happen on a Ka that was 1 year old and he snapped the plug off. I've recently done the plugs on my Z which had been in for 5 years. They came out no problem and there was no grease on them either. I was reading something about some plugs extend slightly into the chamber and the threads can get carbon build up causing them to sieze on the way out - never experienced that myself despite seeing some carbon build up on the threads. Also plugs these days have a compression seal on them which you should not over tighten. Providing they've been put in correctly in the first place there is no reason why they should not come out. The seal prevents any gas or water entering (and leaving for that matter) the threads and thus prevents any corrosion. Once you break the seal as you undo the plug, they ought to come out without any problems. I'm no expert on this. So someone is bound to put me straight soon! Jim

Personally I would never use any form of lubricant on spark plugs or any other bolt that is likely to be put under heating and cooling cycle stress. Firstly I'd be concerned about the threads or head cracking due to the grease expanding and causing stress due to hydraulic pressures. Secondly you are reducing the earthing of the plug by insulating the thread (not by a lot though) and yes there is copper in the grease but it is held in a suspension of grease. Third, there is a slight possibility that the plugs could loosen up due to the lubrication and heat/cold cycles. Finally, copper grease contains fine particles of copper. It probably won't harm your engine any more than what is already trapped in the oil, but do you want to risk it? I know a lot of mechanics do this all the time and swear they've never had a problem but I just wouldn't do it and never have in 20 years of servicing my own vehicles. Just because it's in a haynes manual does mean it's right either. Jim (dons flame proof suit and ducks for cover)

I'll take the boot divider if I may. I'd have the air intake pipe too but don't fancy the blue in my kuro. Jim

Easy to do but not a quick job as there is a lot to move out of the way. I recommend getting a long reach plug socket that has a magnetic tip - makes it so much easier. Like this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_163003_langId_-1_categoryId_165469 Don't use the ones with a rubber insert. If the insert comes out in the hole, it's a big of a pig to get it out. Jim

Bloody marvellous. Thanks for that.

Yup. Extremely boring and pointless. VBH looked very uncomfortable in the skirt and heels...