scubapics

Hey Tim. Wish I'd seen this on Friday. Just done a full car detail (kuro black). Using DA and megs #83/80 on a megs yellow pad. It was left with very fine marring at the end and no amount of polishing even with a megs black pad buffer would shift it. It appears the paint really is very soft. Would you expect megs #205 to finish the job? For now, after DA polishing, I have applied some autoglym SRP to fill the fine marring and followed up with two coats of Zaino Z2 to seal the SRP in. Still looks the dogs bollocks with no swirls anymore at all. Jim

The set that I have is a 2 pen kit, B.M.W. Black. The number is 394650 if that helps. http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_172805_langId_-1_categoryId_165580 Jim

BMW black is spot on for my kuro.

Ok. I see. Looks like your my only hope... Unless R35LEE saves the day! Nissan say 4 to 6 week back order which usually means never. Alternatively I could reapint, letraset and lacquer. But that's my last resort. Jim

I see. So the set you have, could I buy and send you mine instead Or have you knackered them in the process of experimentation?

Hmm, so how did you get the switches off? I though you needed to remove the wheel to get at them.

Did you guys use a steering wheel puller to get the wheel off or did it come off easily by pulling? Also did you replace the torx bolts or reuse (manual says to replace). Jim

Sounds like a plan if I can't find a replacement. I'd want it as close to original as possible. Would you like to PM me the cost? Jim

Won't that remove the lettering though? The lettering on mine is on the cover rather than the switches itself. Jim

Interesting. But what about the lettering? My lettering is on the plate not the buttons themselves. Jim

Bugger. Anyone know if it is simple to remove the steering wheel? Jim

The lacquer is peeling on the steering wheel switch covers. Has anyone else experienced this and performed a DIY repair or just replaced the covers completely? I'm not keen of carbon fibre so want to keep the original look. Zmanalex already pm'd. Jim

Hey hey hey - nothing wrong with ciggy lighter expanders .... in a landrover! My mate has loads as he flys commercial hot air balloons and needs to charge loads of stuff all the time like GPS, multiple radios, laptops, cameras etc. Small world isn't it? I had a flight with him if he's the chap who does flights out of Pheonix Green and other places in the region. I bumped into him at the bakers in Hartley Wintney a couple of weeks back.

Fitted this myself this weekend. The guide is very good and the quality of the ciruit is also top notch. Good to see someone who can do vero board properly! One tip for anyone doing this themselves. Don't use araldite or glue to fix the microswitch in place or there is a reasonable chance that you will get glue on the lever hinge and the switch will stop working once set. Instead either use self tapping screws or use some no nails double sided tape so that you can accurately apply to the switch. It also means the device can be used and tested immediately. Jim

Thanks for the responses. That's helped me to make up my mind about using a DA. Just one more though. How noisy is the DA? Jim

Yup, used the DA for the Black Hole too, gave a much deeper shine than the bits I had to do by hand. Waxing was all done by hand though using the Swissvax applicator pad and an AG polishing microfibre. I've been toying with the idea of a DA for some time now. So please excuse all the questions. Did you tape up all the trim and did you use the DA and cutting polish on the plastic bumpers? Oh, and you need to polish your exhaust tips too Jim

Good job. Did you use the DA for the Black Hole too? Or did you do that and the waxing by hand? Jim

Should be quite alright dry. Jim

I only removed the radiator drain plug. To be honest, the engine block drain plugs can only be accessed with the engine out of the car from what I could see. I can't see how you could do it without doing a major strip down. Refilling is a bit of a bugger. Biggest recommendation I have is to fill the car, let it warm up fully and top up as required during the warming up stage. Rev the engine as the manual says. Then let it cool down fully. That may well mean overnight. Then top up, warm up again and repeat as necessary to remove any air blocks. Good luck as I found it a real pain to do and even the Nissan tech agreed it's a bit of a bugger when I asked for advice. Jim

Mine goes under my lowered car with USDM Nismo sideskirts on it with no need for planks. Quite simply the only reason I bought it! Do you mean to say that you jack up your car using the sill jack points? Or are you using the differential and front cross member jack points but accessing them from the side rather than the front or rear of the car? Jim

Does this jack fit right under the front and rear jacking points? Or do you still need to lift the car on planks first?

Is there any chance you could post a parts list for those of us who are capable of building our own? Are these maplin, farnell or RS parts? Jim

Wash you car when it's cloudy and the metal cool. Then you will have more time to dry the car before the sun gets to it. Some other alternatives: 1. When rinsing, sheet the water off by using an open ended hose. The water will pull itself off the car and leave hardly anything behind. However, you need a highly polished car for this to work. Then go round and mop up the remaiing bits. You still need a cool car in the shade for this. 2. You could invest in a water filter. Aquagleam is the product. It's about £50 and will only get you so many washes so it is not a cheap option. Theoretically you should be able to leave the car to dry by itself using this method but I have never found this to be the case. I no longer use a filter but I may re-invest for the summer months. http://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/aqua-gleam.aspx 3. You could try the Optimun No Rinse product. This is a rinseless wash. I haven't tried it so can't recommend it. http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/washing-and-drying/optimum-no-rinse-32oz/prod_773.html I've often thought the same with the washers as you. You could try using de-ionised water but that's not a cheap option. Besides, the wash mix might leave particles/residue behind anyway. Might be worth a try once.

Thanks Dave.

Thanks. I read that earlier. So no one can supply them now :-(