GT4 Zed

ðŸ‘ðŸ‘👠Ian was hoping for status reports from you. Hope things have changed for the better. Do you have a number in Hungary?

Fantastic price mate. A full race setup with testing inbetween cost 300quid but that includes corner weights. So even with that excluded Iyok got a good deal. Can you post up your geo sheet as others with OEM setups may benefit👀

+1 with Alex. I have a cusco 2way set at 60% too. I left the original 100% locking it came with and was too snappy for road use. The best discovery I made recently is the motul 90PA LSD oil. Almost gets rid of the chatter/clunking and its now smooth as butter. LSD is one of the best mods you'd ever do to the zed. I bought my cusco cheaper than market price if not would have got the Kaaz with WOC coated plates for quietness and longevity but so far there is no visible wear on the plates. Tomei sells a combo deal of LSD and 3.9 FD and a good price.

Lurvly😎

TEIN droplinks sold. Reduce prices on remaining items and offers considered.

The old man was hoping it will just slide with no one noticing😇 nice try😈 Happy birthday Sir🎂🎉ðŸŽ!

Look who's talking. Thanks for the reply to your questions earlier😜

Hey Sam your set up is ok except you need a check valve to stop boosting the crankcase. You will not alway see smoke unless you have excessive blowby meaning your rings are a bit worn. Also the breather/vent near the SC from bank 2 would've help to vent while on boost. But not as adequately if you were vent both to atmosphere. The pcv does not rely on vacuum to pull the gases out or the crankcase as the crankcase is always at a higher pressure than the plenum in vacuum or atmosphere so the gases will flow out. The issue is when you go into boost the plenum is higher and the check valve is not a true one way valve so boost goes in. The only way you can demonstrate you don't have a problem is to log your crankcase pressure in FI and this done by our US brothers hence the need to provided adequate venting and stopping crankcase boosting. The reason why the gases are sent into the plenum is for emissions purely.

Powergrids drop links SOLD.

Thanks for the head up RichðŸ‘

Nice one Sam. Glad you are sorted. I shared some thoughts about the pcv systems in our boosted cars and suggested solutions please have a read. http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/82588-vortech-supecharging-technical-and-reliability-thread/#entry1244649

Few items left. Can't believe the bonnet dampers and drop-links are still here👀. I'm will to split the TEIN tie rods ends if needed. Have curtain and passenger airbags now available for sale. And front air guide plastics. Pics up soon. Bump for offers

Nice deal Chris👠the Do-luck is one if my all time favourite kits for the zed except the drag spec wing. I will be interested in the side skirts if you can get this on its own.

For those with nismo, Cusco Kaaz LSD or planning to get one. I know these are not very common mods and maybe 4-5 pips here have them but they transform the car a million times. Just sharing my experience about getting the right LSD oil. I have the cusco RS LSD and though very pleased with its performance I have not been too impressed by how clunky and notchy it has been. This is expected from a mechanical diff but mine seems to take the biscuit! After trying: -Gulf competition 75w 90 LSD oil - Fuchs syn 5 75w 90 oil -Redline line lightweight shockproof 75w 90 oil (smurfs blood) after discussing with Oilman @ opie. I ended up getting real life advice from a race team with an RJN prepared 350z with nismo GT LSD which is similar to mine and they categorically adviced to Motul 90PA 75w 90 which is mineral based and against synthetic oil when it comes to LSDs. I met Jez @ Horsham who uses the Motul on his nismo diff and is very pleased too. I also noticed how much quiter his diff was and that considering the nismo is quite loud. Anyway I did a full oil service today and went for a drive and its been a revelation🙀! The diff is very smooth now when engaging or unlocking and the pops and bangs have almost disappeared unless on very slow tight turns like parking. On the plus side its 16 quid for 2 litres against £30-40 for Gulf or Redline. The service interval with the mineral oil is 5000-6000miles for a road/track car while you could get away with twice the interval with a synthetic oil. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-888-motul-90-pa-lubricant-limited-slip-differential-lsd-extreme-pressure.aspx

I'll say this again absolutely gorgeous!! 10mm wheel spacers, blitz rear spoiler and colour coded door handles and its perfection attained👠But that rear wiper needs to go!. Ruining the smooth lines😖

Nice but its still going to be a boat😜😜 ðŸ‘ðŸ‘

Congratulations dude. Deserved😎

You can paint it with special heat dispersant radiator paint so the cooling capacity is maintained or even enhanced. I used Eastwood black radiator paint. And also on my SC head unit as I did not want to dismantle it for powdercoating. It's Held up well and has the same satin black finish like the rest of my piping. http://bit.ly/1piCryc

Issue: Boosting the crankcase when FI. Usually manifest as excessive smoking under heavy load conditions but also you can experince excessive deterioration of engine oil soon after service, excessive moisture in oil, failing seals and gaskets, rough running due to loss of piston ring seal, premature cylinder wall wear and reduced compression leading to reduced performance. This list goes on🙀 Background: The OEM PCV( positive crankcase ventilation) system was designed for NA and is very effective to vent the crankcase of normal combustion blowby, moisture, other toxic/acidic oil and fuel fumes. It depends mostly on engine vacuum to evacuate the gases and allowing for fresh air to aerate the crankcase and recycling all these nastiness in the combustion cycle for emissions purposes. It's very efficient but in this configuration not optimal as the vented air contaminates your intake air and reduces your octane number but its a small price to pay. This is why you find oil in the lower plenum. The usual solution is to get an oil catch can to clean this air before it reaches the plenum. The PCV systems essential works through a special valve that is spring loaded and varies the flow of vented gas depending on engine load but the issue is when FI the is no more engine vacuum except on idle or very light engine load. All modern cars use the same system to vent the crankcase and the design for OEM FI cars too but with consideration of boost. Once in boost the plenum pressure is high than crankcase and becuase the oem pcv valve is not an effective one way valve, you boost the crankcase making it impossible to vent so the gases have to find another way🙀. That's how the issues described above can occur! The easiest route is up past the rings into the combustion chamber and hence the typical excessive smoking which we like to think as normal due to running rich and being FI. The issue would even be more pronounced if your rings are a bit worn than normal giving off more blowby and higher crankcase pressures. I knew about this when I did my initial research before Sc-ing and proceeded to vent the rear breather on the passenger side and the pcv valve on the front driver side vented via a baffled mini catch can back into the plenum. Darren, octet and i had this setup and I had hoped it would be enough and by venting into the plenum I would have no issues with oily fumes coming into the car as can be the case if you just vent to atmosphere. But as mentioned already the pcv valve is ineffective and there is insufficient venting and in my case I still had smoking under heavy load. The original vortech recommendation is similar except the rear is vented into the intake pre SC. it's deals with the emissions but not adequate to vent the crankcase. I looked into this again recently more closely and after reading loads of FI articles, pcv sytems and seeing what our cousin accross the pond on my350z where doing it was clear what was needed. http://m.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=403905&styleid=69 http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/119-engine/68333-how-vent-your-crank-case-attn-fi-members-2.html http://what-when-how.com/automobile/crankcase-emission-control-automobile/ Solutions: There is one principle but several variations depending if you want to recirculate the vented gas into the plenum/ intake or just to atmosphere. Venting both vent ports to atmosphere will be the most efficient and least restrictive but you may suffer with oily deposits to the engine bay around the mini filters and gets whiff of fumes into the cabin at certain times. Solution1: vent both sides to atmosphere via a mini filter. Simples and cheap. Solution 2: vent both sides to atmosphere via mini filter and cap of the plenum port. This solution is the cleanest and most performance oriented as per racing cars as no vented crap goes back into the engine but environmentally the worst. You can mitigate this with 1 or to oil catch cans (occ) on each side. This is what ive done and so far i've not noticed any of the above issuesðŸ‘. I have driven the car extremely aggressively and for a week now ton remove post modification bias or "butt dyno effect" and the smoking under load has gone, the car feels and pulls like there are a few extra ponies now and most of all it runs and idles very cleanly. I did not expect this much of a change😎. On a little note because this modification was done post tuning I'm running slightly richer as the unmetered air from the crankcase is no longer accounted for. I'll sort this out with a fine tune which I planned to do anyway with a few changes to my setup so no biggie. So bear in mind that any solution variation that caps the plenum will get you to run rich if you were tuned with the pcv venting into plenum and if you were venting to atmosphere are now vent back to the plenum then you will run lean. This can will happen if you do not follow the principles outlined here and create a boost leak from the plenum. You car will also run rough. As you are leaking metered air. Solution 3: as above but drill the pcv for max venting and put a check valve to prevent breathing when in vacuum from the front vent though it shouldn't because the crankcase will always have more pressure than atmosphere at all times but I like security and also to preven backfire. Solution 4: vent the rear to atmosphere and the front to into plenum as per OEM and put a check valve between. Solution 5: as above with an occ between the front vent and plenum Solution 6: as above with an occ to the rear between the rear breather vent and mini filter Solution 7: as per solution 6 but vent back into the intake before the SC or turbo. Solution 8 as per solution 4 and 5 but a tee connection after the occ and vent one line into the plenum with a check valve in between and the other line to atmosphere via a check valve and mini filter. Solution 9 as per 8 but drill out the pcv for unrestricted venting and on the mini filter line also put a check valve. This would be my final setup once I get my super duper custom occ. this set up ensures ultimate venting from the crankcase and still allows the rear vent to breathe fresh air and the front to vent cleanly into the plenum under vacuum or only to atmosphere in boost with no way of boosting the crankcase as all the above solutions. Solution 10 as per 9 but if I get some fumes smells add an occ to the rear vent between the filter and if this does not rid the smells then extend the piping so the mini filter lies low beneath the engine away from the cabin air intake on the passenger side. I doubt that would be necessary as the rear mostly breathes and with the front having no restrictions it will vent all the crap. Solution 11: any other variation you can come up with so far as the principles are followed its your choice Solution 12: do nothing and leave your pcv alone and watch your car underperform and eventually die. It's your money so your choice😇 Pics: current set up - Solution 2 Mini filter, 10mm reinforced oil/fuel hose, one way check valve. Put together Installed. The pipe with the yellow tape is the capped line into the plenum. I've order a countersunk hex plug to block the plenum(kinetix SSV v2) but if you have the OEM plenum just get a 9mm silicon cap off eBay and cap the lower plenum vacuum port off and secure it further with heat resistant take just in case you don't pop it off with mega boost. LoL! You would be fine. I'm at +15psi and I just put a bolt in the but of tubing and taped over it and no leak. Rear breather with mini filter as per my initial SC set up. No oil residue around the engine bay. but it used to vent fumes into the cabin under boost as the crankcase became pressurised. No more smells now! OEM Nissan one way check valve will be perfect too (used in the brake boosted pipe and clutch). It's 20quid from Nissan! The one I got from my motor factors is a fraction. Few solutions from Uncle Sam's boys. There are more but I've covered most of the variations on the solutions. There are some that just reverse the role of the vents which is fine too. Just but be mindful of the stupid setup that will surely will cause boost leaks or compromise venting🙀 I've got tons more pics but this should cover it. When I have time👀 I'll make some drawings to illustrate all my prised solutions. To cap it all, - crankcase venting is necessary when FI on our platform as its designed for NA. - follow sound venting principles as described. - you need a check valve to preventing back boosting - keep it simple. - Get the right parts for your set up. - You may need a tune to get your AFR on target - if you don't want to do any of this at least check your pcv is to clogged and not even working as that worse. Same to you NA boys though its not a big an issue. Parts list: 10mm or 3/8" and 15mm or 5/8" reinforced oil fuel hose for the front and rear. 9mm and 15mm mini filter for front and rear. High quality one way check valves Baffled occ that will separate the oil from fumes. The Rutland mini occ works well but the lower drainage seal has failed twice on me probably due to it being boosted then but rather try it I gone for a proper proven item. If you intend to drill the pcv then get a new pcv incase you want to revert. It's $12 in US so suspect 12-15quid from Nissan. I have an order in progress with my us contact so if you want these parts I can help but expect them in the next 2 weeks due to backorder on some other stuff I've ordered

Nice👠What go pro is that? Can't decide between the silver or black editions😳

Never thought the V3 bumper could ever look good but you sit have pulled it off with the eyelids, skirts and chargespeed all shimmering in that temper orange😎 It's going to be hard to beat this.ðŸ‘

Any updates? Been 1 month since mate😎

I would not go any further without a compression and or leak down test. You can get the compresion kit from halfords for 30quid and do it yourself. As Ricky mentioned it would likely be a gasket failure of some sort rather than rings failing due to overheating but may even be unrelated to both Check you pcv it working and not stuck. In any case the zed shed crew will sort you out.

What a derrière 😎😘. Its perfect. Please don't add anymore spats or whatever and ruin perfection! Finally papa you are letting looseðŸ‘. I like the way you've smurfadized your zed over the years but it was always a tad conservative but this announces the start of a revelation😇. Consulting the oracle it looks like FI next.👀

Looks nice Sam👠I've been told I have got flames and getting pops and bangs on overrun all the time especially as my tune is rich and the zorst is straight through from the headers back. Just need a gopro to capture this for posterity😜