GT4 Zed

No it wasn't SS zip ties but your fetish for Teflon tape :lol:

Hey Dazza, Are you sure that zip tie is petrol resistant🙀? I hope if not you will have to go in there again at some point. I would have used SS zip tie to be sure.

Was trying to see what this kit reminded me of and just came back to me; the gumpert Apollo super car. See how the right grill and paint transforms this car that polarises opinions in equal measure.

Wouldn't touch these which a badge pole😈 The advantage in weight saving by going true rear coilovers will only come into play if you replace the spring bucket with extended toe arms like SPL makes. However even if you do this it does offer a handling advantage over the OEM separate inboard spring setup which offers very good rear end compliance and traction over a true coilover setup. Secondly the rear turret is not designed to carry both loads so to be safe it requires reinforcement to prevent failure especially when using high spring rates.

There's no free lunch mate. Eg A good setup for handling twisties will increase tyre wear. Stick with the factory setup and you would have the best compromise. Aim to be in the upper ranges of OEM ranges if you can Front: Toe 0deg.00min though bit of toe out will even be better. Eg 0.05 Camber would be more negative than max OEM( 1deg20min)= good. However you can't adjust this anyway unless you have an adjustable arm Caster would be positive than max OEM(8deg.55min) = good. You can adjust it anyway unless you got an adjustable arm. Rear: Toe in 0deg.06min Camber negative 2deg.05min Since you are lowered do you have adjustable droplinks? Often forgotten but very important as you could preload your anti toll bars and worsen the roll. Most people counter this with stiffer damping with even makes your handling worse. So check the ARBs have no preload. Hope it helps.

Oh dear!!! How did I miss this? Where do I start🙀? Very bold! Certainly "A" for effort. And as the OP said its still a work in progress. I think with the right sized wheels and offset and the grills blacked out it would look better as someone already mentioned. We can't all have the same taste so I appreciate what the OP is trying to achieve. Don't get scared off mate! Stick around and the forum would be only richer for having you.

+10000000

There is no single fix all solution to get a car to handle like a dream but improvements and compromises in various areas until you achieve your goal. The more adjustability you have the better as any change in one area affects another. Beware of cheap parts as they will fail and you will spend more in the long run. The other thing is that perceived handling is very subjective so take generalised advice with some reservation or make smaller informed changes at a time. With regards to your current issue of body roll you can reduce this by stiffening the ARB on one or both axles, reducing the COG or increasing the damper stiffness. So it may mean you have to get adjustable Eibach ARBs and coilovers. But its not so straight fowards as changing all those will mean you also need to correct camber and toe parts etc and this does not guarantee good handling if they and not set correctly. However before you buy these, I find that the OEM ARB is not too bad for just daily use and fast road use. The first thing to change will be the ARB bushes with Superpro bushes as with time the rubber OEM ARB bushes which are very soft anyway wear down and give the OEM bush too much unwanted movement at the chassis fulcrum points and that reduces its effectiveness = more roll/wallow. Secondly. if your car is pre 2005 GT4 era you can upgrade your front ARB to the GT4 or 2006 onwards as Nissan increased stiffness by 17%. It's way cheaper than a new set of Eibach ARBs you may not need for your purposes. Many people here only require little changes to the suspension to make the car perfect for usage type but end up spending loads and end up with a car that is not better handling because of lack of cohesiveness. The factory dampers are also durable and tuned for our roads so unless you want a trackday car stick with it and lower the car on good quality springs to reduce the COG and minimal compromise on ride quality. Eibach springs or Tein would get your there and you will be able to set the geo within specs without buying more stuff. Secondly not all coilovers are equal and a cheap investment now that fails or rust to bits in x amour of time will set you back or put you at risk. This little changes together with your MPSS, rubber, a good fast road alignment, brakes upgrade will get your smiles back and if you are not happy then make the next change from there eg Eibach ARB, coilovers etc but remember stiffer may also reduce grip, ride quality and compliance. The beauty of this is you can dIY these changes yourself, it's cheap, and you would sell the spring to move forwards. In anycase you are at the right place with Abbey and they can help you.

Looks like you can go both ways for that power goal. The engine will be ok with 400whp and under 400lbft torque. The turbo will make more torque. They both will require the same kind of supporting mods. Since is just show and fast road driving I'll go SC as its simpler to install. Me and the lads have done a few now so we can help.

Nice work guys. It's likely that a cheap aftermarket gasket led to that engine dying but did you guys check to studs where all torqued to spec and cause it to lift? Just wondering because most of the gaskets should be fine for NA.

Pros and cons for both but either way expensive. What are your power/torque goals? What do you plan to use the car for? Are you planning to keep the engine stock or rebuilding with forged parts? I went supercharged to mirror the std cars torque and power curve for easy track and fast road driving. Also the SC makes less heat so easier on the engine and cooler AITs eventhough you can mitigate this by getting a midmount or rear mounted turbo kit. In anycase do your research well on here and US forums and decide which suits your needs and budget👀 Also what year is your car as it limits your choices of kits😉

fellow GT4 owner. Slipping clutch mate as already covered. Should be covered by consumer act as though it is a wear and tear item it should be reasonably fit for purpose for a nominal period after purchase. So unless you have put on crazy miles since you bought in within the week or have been driving only sideways everywhere you better get back to the dealer to get it repaired. If they say no just calmly return the car. No need to invoke warranty. If the decide to fix it FOC as they should used the opportunity to get an uprated clutch and single mass flywheel. Traders here will help with sourcing. This option is cheaper than going to Nissan for OEM stuff so the dealer should thank you.

Sorry to her this news Matt. Wish your zed a speedy recovery even stronger and faster👠It's a good thing you are not too far from the zed shed crew😎

Bogof Andy, you already have a set with r888. Just getting these to do the same.

Depends on what you are after. I've got a set of circuit sports bonnet lifter in very good condition. In fact only the pax side was installed on my car. The driver side is unused. I'll pm a list of stuff I've got that I'm about to put up for sale and see if we can do a deal👠@ Pete and oilyrag replied by pm

I'm after x4 OEM rear Rays wheels for use with R888 for trackdays this summer. The problems is most people do not want to split a full set and sell only the rears so I may just have to buy a full set and sell or swap the fronts for a pair of rears. If anyone is after a used pair of fronts rays cheap give me a shout! Still interested in a cheap pair rears Rays requiring refurb (not bent, cracked or deeply gouged).

UR is Australian and seem to have a good review about their stuff. Their entire range for the zed looks solid and well thought out. Lets us know if you get this as I'm tempted with the lower front chassis brace.

They know their stuff and very meticulous! I like mucho!

That's the older design. The new ones have a crossover pipe at the ypipe location and its a true dual as the two pipes are separate within the muffler canister which is also smaller. The net effect is that this new version performs better, sounds better with no rasp or drone. It's a very good true dual for the price if you want to retaine the OEM type look at the rear. Famous ex Nismo Master tuner and car guru Mike kojima rates it highly. I read all his tech articles. See this. http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/3348/Project-350Z-Getting-More-Power-With-DC-Sports-and-Berk-Technolgies.aspx

Congratulations mate! I had given up you were ever going to get this done😜 Should be easy to bolt it up with all the off the self parts available for the LSx to 350z swap unless as you indicate you'd be counting on Bizz to fab these for you.. The only real issue seems to be ecu to interphase with the zed gauges etc but if you went full after market you should be fine. One last thing is gearbox choice. The T56 and another one that escapes me now seems to fit the zed without modding of the firewall or tunnel. Anyway I'm sure you've done your research. Try and get it done before wales will youðŸ‘

Very resourceful mate! I like the heat shrink idea and may try it myself. I like the wheels and very interested in the air cup kits. Do you have any specs on these? Will it actually lift 2"? How quickly? Can you drive with it inflated? Warranty? Ive thought about a kit but theyseem very expensive to getagood quality one than i wanted to spend so the why i have so many questions 😜

Nice Ian! In for the resultsðŸ‘

Best bit in that film. Love it. PMSL!!!!!!!!

See a real wound 45mins later. He didn't feel a thing😎

Nice work Arran👠but why remap after the oil cooler? It has no real influence on the power figures on a dyno run😉