GT4 Zed

Common grow a pair. That's a fur wound😜😜

Ooo I do like that.... How much are they?Also what's it called? The same RTP wing I showed earlier. Pics can be deceiving👀. It's the called the GTRZ wing and its depends on if its discounted still so check with Taras @ RTP for quote.

I've played with all combo on the revup engine and dynoed most to say what works or a waste of time before going sc'd. Here what's required MREV 2 Plenum spacer Panel filter Full service: Oils, iridium plugs, belts* Grounding kit* Decat and y pipe. Y pipe back exhaust if you want a better sound or the OEM is knackered Uprev remap after all of above Anything else is a waste of time. The 2 items in asterisk donot make power but ensure smooth running of the car. To get the best out of the car you also need to improve the brake, clutch and handling. This is obviouly planned usage and budget dependent. Do your research then start spending😜

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I thought you guys were after something that works on the car as opposed to looks only. A generic traditional wing or any other type will only work if developed on the car. ie. correct wing width, profile, additional elements, upright height and sweep angle, etc which puts the wing in the best area to perform and not cause other unwanted characteristics. The APR is going to be your option 1 if you want traditional style but you also need to get their front splitter to optimize the aero on both ends as per their design and recommendation. Then the little matter of price of this wing. I faced this dilemma. The RTP(GTRZ) spoiler is designed to work on a standard car with OEM bumper or the nismo variants. Sure I don't expect it to be everyone's taste in the same way the nismo spoiler polarizes opinion but wait till you see it in flesh.

Have you guys considered this wing from RTP. It's wind tunnel tested for the GTR by Espirit and redeveloped on CFD for the zed so it does produce downforce. It has two downforce angle settings. Made purely out of CF so very light and has an OEM look to it so suits the zed very well in my opinion. Cost wise its a no brainier as its cheaper than importing the Megan wing. If you do do not like the CF legs you can get them made cheaply and fit the the fittings to the wing.

Toby! Keyser has answered most of the questions. Depending in how mechanically inclined you are you can save a lot if you can investigate remove and replace the parts or have a member who can near by:) I can tell you with almost 200% certainty that the Ac leak is from the Ac condenser. It is common for the canister on the driver side to corrode and crack leaking gas. You tend to miss this after a dye leak test as its hidden! Get a new condenser frim ebay for £125 (made by nissens) who are highly regarded to make OEM quality Ac parts. The OEM condenser is over 300quid

Yes and yes.

The offset bush is the only way to adjust caster unless you have an after market control arm like SPL to adjust caster. The bush will give you a fixed and about equal increase in caster on each. Hopefully both axles should be about the same ball park unless if something arm is bent, bushing worn or the other geo settings and ride height are way off on each axle.

Yep all OEM cars suffer with this due to mushy subframe and diff bushes primarily. Replace all the rear bushes with urethane or solid mono ball bushes and you will get rid. Cost a lot in labour but worth it if handling and full power delivery is you main goal.

That's BS. The LSD should get any issues from an MOT test or multiple dyno power runs either. The oem VLSD is a life long item. As expected it will become weaker in its locking overtime due to wear and tear and deterioration in the viscous oil but that's it. In the unlikely event your diff has packed up for one reason or the other the described tests above will tell you if its performing or not. If its knackered then its you chance to get a Quaife or clutch type diff and be amazed at what you were missing😎

Nice purchase Chris👠congratulations. You are going to have loads of fun with this😎

I've got the center plastic with airbag. It is on one of my FS post. Make me an offer👀 http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/76332-fs-vortech-filter-boot-carpet-oem-parts-etc/

Happy birthday Dazza! Don't drink to much!! I'm sending Melissa to cheer you up😎!!

Redline is good stuff so I don't think that's the issue. I take it you refitted the OEM VLSD and just swapped the FD. Start by putting it up a ramp and inspecting and hearing where the noise is coming from. Then drain oil to see if any metal bits. Next I would open it up and and check nothing is eating itself to death. Cheaper in long run. With the FD backlash is very important. Did you make sure this was within specs.

Do you really need 4doors because the E92 is lighter and looks better. I drove my mates fully modified car on the good A/B road in Cambridgeshire at full chat and was pleasantly surprised. It's very accomplished and I liked the DCT box a lot. He did 07:50-08:20 BTG nurburgring times with it consistently. However its difficult to say how good the standard car is with all the mods done on his car; AP BBK all round with pagid RS29s, coilovers, full titanium exhaust, decats, carbon fibre intake, revo remap (460bhp) and CF recaro buckets seats, fast road/track geo. I think it's a lot of car for the money and a good base to start modding.

If you are looking for the nismo sound, better quality and price then you have to get the Tanabe super medallion touring exhaust. The invidia gemini is slightly quieter but has the best flow as confirmed by mark @ abbey and the build quality is outstanding for the price. Its a steal!! If its too quiet then pair it with a decat pipe. Simples!

As said already you cannot achieve 380whp on a budget. It's plausibly achievable if you can do all the labour and get parts on the cheap brand new or used on a place like my350z.com but it will be a tall order. RJN Nissan (UK), Fontana Nissan (US) and SGP(Can) and 1 chap on my350 all have built NA cars with close and about 350-400whp but at great cost. Secondly of all that lot I'd only trust the result and reliability from RJN and Fontana. They both used 3.8l cosworth stroker kits, high compression to exploit race fuel, dry sump lubrication and serious head work with lightweight titanium valvetrain parts LTH and tuned exhaust amongst order things.. If you are doing a NA car for drifting or trackday only stick with the usual bolt-ons, Uprev and strip it as light as you can and save you money otherwise. Good luck if you do it.

I can't tell them everything can I? It will ruin the surprise😈

+10000 Still not a fan of that wing though👀

😜😜😜😜 Ok octet shall I tell them? The real zed shed will be doing a live forged engine build/install this summer! Before that there is the small matter of installing the first twin GTM supercharger on a 370z. And many other little projects in between! 😎

Nice work gents! Btw I've got an engine and some cakes......,,,are you guys thinking what I'm thinking?👀 Can't wait for sunny weather to arrive for this😎!

Hey Vlad, eBay is your friend. Got 40yellow caps for 2quid😜 Got tired of fancy ones getting nicked!

LOL! I like to share with others and with facts as I'm sure that though often underlooked an underperforming battery can make your life hell like it did mine for 1.5weeks until I had the time to sort it.

My halfords battery died on me lately and decided I was not getting a replacement under warranty as:- - it rubbish..lasted just over 2yrs - can't be asked to find the receipt Spec: AH 62 CCA 510 L235 W173 H225 Cost £95 pick up! Anyway I decided I'd get a quality battery and would fit the largest I can in the space available👀 so that I get the highest AH and CCA possible. In laymans terms: have the most juice in the battery to start the car no probs every time, support extra electrical stuff eg audiovisual, gauges etc and importantly able to run stuff while stationary with key in acc without fear of draining the battery quickly. I set off with my tape measure and ended up with L285 x W185 x H240mm being the max dimensions in the battery cubby on the passenger side. Next I did a search to see which top end battery will closely match the dimensions. The winner was the top of the line Bosch S5 0008 battery. Comes with 5 year warranty. Specs: AH 77 CCA 780 L 278 W 175 H 190 Fitted the battery easily and even retained the OEM securing gubbins. Car started instantaneously at the turn if the key and voltmeter shows a steady 12.5v key switched to on and 14.5v at idle. I'm very pleased. For comparison with OEM spec AH 65 CCA 550 (earlier cars came with 490) L235 W173 H 225 The S5 battery is £106 at ECP (thats with 15% discount 👀) I managed to get it through a mates trade account at a local motor factors for £80👠I can get 1 more if anyone needs a top battery. Delivery would be 7quid mainland UK unless you want to pick up or I drop it off if you happen to be in my route. Pics