ZMANALEX

I can help you with this mate, and I am only up the road in Perth Drop me a pm if I can help you further. Alex.

If it is the same badge that is on the sill steps then I have them.

I can help you with most of the stuff that you require You have pm Alex.

Cheers Bennett Here you go Jay: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=13464

If it is 19" then 285 will be fine.

I should have these, priced at £66.45 VIN required to confirm price. Alex.

So, you have my paypal addy.

O hell yeah! Providing common sense prevails and you look after your brakes.

So how many times did you pit to let your brakes cool down within the 60 laps that you did? each lap was a bout 60seconds long to 1min 10s ... I did about 4-5 laps and then ran 1-2 cool down laps with very little braking... the brakes started to fade after the 1st real lap (after warmup lap) and never performed well really but worse as it progressed. I'll stick up a clip on a 'normal' lap that I did. You have really answered youir own question here. Even with a proven set up you require warm up, cool down and some pit time out. You say 60 laps in a 1 hr track session, I would be looking at 3 sessions of say 10 laps and 3 x 10 min. pit stops between each track session. My numerous pms to you, explains fully my thoughts on how to improve your brake set up and how to get quality and enjoyable track time. Have a read at the post put up by Maz0, he has the right idea. Alex.

You should keep your ear to the ground a bit more.

... The trackign Idid was 60s laps with pretty lots of cornering so the discs/pads/calipers only got a few straights to 'cool' down... crazy really.. So how many times did you pit to let your brakes cool down within the 60 laps that you did?

This a very serious warning sign of what may be happening. I would hazard a guess that Gaz has taken payment for items and now doesn't have the money to fulfil the orders. To advise someone to open up a dispute against them is very dodgy ground. When someone opens up a dispute against you it puts your paypal account into a negative situation until the situation is resolved. If it's not resolved the buyer gets their money back and then Paypal try to reimburse the account using card details provided by the seller, which if there is no funds available cannot happen. Its like Gaz wants people to get the money back but without giving it himself and would rather have Paypal chase him for the money, than forum members................it just seems odd for someone who has been an established trader to just drop off the radar like this..... Odd, but certainly no surprise.

+1 What he says. I you require a metal lower sump pan then I have a few preowned in stock. Alex.

In stock and still only £260.00 per pair. Brand new, genuine Nissan. Totally plug and play. Same/next day shipping. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=13464&p=556903#p556903

+1 What he says.

You have pm Dan.

You have pm Trevor. I can solve your issues. Alex.

so I'm not being pedantic then ..... let's hope someone who can give a definitive answer comes along shortly Sent this to mattblue16 today, Perhaps it may help you Hugh, then perhaps it may not He was asking the difference between the OEM joint and the modified one. Hi Matt, Yes mate, the clicky axle issue is caused by a build up of rust which causes corrosion between the joint face and the hub carrier. The grease and rotate method is a temporary fix introduced by Nissan as a time delay to get the cars out of warranty. Rotating the joint to the shaft simply reinstates the mating surfaces in a different position, temporarily removing the noise. The modified joints faces are machined at a different angle and the ball races and cages are of a different configuration. All the joints have stamp marks on them so that Nissan can identify what joints are fitted and more importantly what factory that they were manufactured in as this a contributing factor. The JDM kits are the same as the original OEM kits and are not upgraded. They are imported from Japan and will not fix your clicky issue permanently. Regards, Alex.

It is the passenger side that you have Craig.

Shipped to BR1 3PE last night, hope that is correct

Nixu, You will have to pull the fault codes to determine the issue.

A new clutch slave cyl. and flush out the fluid and bleed will fix your issue. Clutch slave cyls in stock and good to go same/next day £73.00. Alex

Unusual for the flange to go as well but no drama as I have preowned flanges available in stock and good to go same/next day Pm received and replied to

Leigh, I will stick these in the post tomorrow for you mate (no charge) Same address?