350zblack

as title im after a set of tein s tech lowering springs for my 350 please PM me if your selling

A fluid chage and a proper bleed may help if it is a hydraulic related issue, but where do you stop? OEM clutch hose, clutch slave cyl, clutch master cyl. are also all prone to failure. However none of the above will cure a clutch slip but may harden up the pedel feel. Alex. would a new clutch on a lightly worn lightened flywheel be alright Alex or would you want to replace both with new items

probably a big point that i missed out is that ive actually had the car since october, only just this last 2/3 weeks has the gear selection issue come on. done approx 9k miles since ownership. alex - you think a clutch fluid change could be needed? as said clutch pedel does seem as if its gotten.. 'sloppy'

sasha, the 2nd gear issue yes i read up about that but my problem seems to be too stiff it take some force to engage. attack, yes ive tried the double clutch for both problems but makes no difference. im swaying towards a new clutch due to the rattle on idle and the general feel of it, seems like its on its way to slipping to me.

mileage is 58,000 miles. previous owner did mention a lightened flywheel and new clutch during his ownership but no reciepts as proof.

i have a problem of changing into 2nd gear from 1st when cold, it is very stiff and at times slightly crunchy when changing into 2nd. i also have a problem when downshifting from 3rd - 2nd - 1st or when changing to 1st coming up to the lights etc. now the 1st to 2nd gear change problem seems to go away after a few mins of driving but the 2nd problem of wanting to select 1st or 2nd on downshift approaching lights etc seems to stay even when warm. i have a slight clutch slip, and i mean slight, and also a rattling noise coming from gearbox when idling (noise goes away when clutch pressed). which leads me to belive the clutch/ release bearing is on its way out, could this also be likely causing the gear selection problems? ive recently give the gearbox oil a flush and change to no benefit. long winded question but hope its clear to understand. any help welcomed

all now sold, please lock/delete.

i bought a set of these brand new BC coilover a few months ago and never got round to fitting them and now i dont have any intention to due to change of plan. they are still brand new never used not even opened the box they came in i got them off ebay from here at the same £649 price: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BC-Racing-Suspens ... 3a60267f00 they have the standard 10kg front springs and 8kg rears the kit has good reviews thats why i purchased it originally. £500 posted to your door via courier. i also have a brand new set of real carbon fiber wing mirror covers they also come with 3m backing tape for fixing again owned for a short while but never fitted £50 posted lastly i have a set of used real carbon fiber b pillar covers these were fitted to my car since last september until removal recently they are still in good condition with no chips etc, they do still have some 3m glue on the back of them but could probably do with some more when re-fitting. (they are both the same good condition its just the light that makes the left one look dull) £20 posted or i would do both the carbon wing mirror covers and the b pillar covers together for £60 posted payment via paypal or bank transfer accepted, payments via paypal to also cover fee's. collection also welcome location is blackpool. PM me with any questions

scratch that just found that it does, for anyone else interested .. http://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-in ... tment.html

also, if anyone has this rear bumper/diffuser setup with a hks hi power or hi power replica exhaust if they could tell me if it clears the diffuser with no rubbing issues etc that would be great

firstly where can i find the chargespeed rear bumper and diffuser for sale? the the only place i can find that stocks both is here.. http://www.madmotors.co.uk/chargespeed- ... s&id=12148 they are stocking them together for £744, anywhere else selling them cheaper? if so where thanks also, what is involved in the rear number plate conversion from uk to jdm, i.e the number plate lights re-location is it simply a straight swap over or is there more fiddling to be had?

yes i just needed a base to start at then i will adjust to suit. thanks

Start with +2psi on stock, but expect to run about +4psi to get rid of the slop. thanks, stock being 35psi both front and rear?

falken fk452's

forgot to mention i checked them when they were cold, 35/36psi sound about right then for these sizes?