ZMANALEX

It would have been exactly that if I had not spotted it, in fact it probably would have thrown the shaft within a few laps with disastrous results but hey ho we live to tell the tale. Is this the first change you done since tracking the car or rather since you went big on power? Would you be able to hear or feel any progressive changes if the shaft was on its way out or is it a case of sudden let go i am already having cold sweats at this thought When you do your checks do you take all the wheels out and check the whole shafts, brakes, suspension component, undercar area and the usual engine checks? Hi Bennet, Yip, retained the OEM shafts as I felt that there was no need to upgrade even with running 600bhp. There were no evident pregressive changes and the car is so loud that no "clicky" noises could be heard. I had the failure only because the boot split and disintigrated resulting in total loss of cv joint grease. Yes, a full and proper after and pre track check is carried out once or twice per week consisting of all you list and much, much more which usually takes around 4 hours plus any remedial work. All fluids (except coolant) are changed on a regular 4 week cycle and brake pads are removed and inspected weekly. Nothing is left to chance but nowt you can do to avoid a rubber boot splitting. These boots are tuff so I suspect that it may have come into contact with some track debris. Running FI weekly on track is very high maintenance but if you can keep on top of it you will reap what you sow. I have been running FI since 2005 on this current Zed and have had no serious mishaps even though I track every week. The secret is in the build and the mapping and a very regular, strict, extreme, maintenance schedule.

It would have been exactly that if I had not spotted it, in fact it probably would have thrown the shaft within a few laps with disastrous results but hey ho we live to tell the tale.

Hi Adam, Only coming out to play if your girlfriend is off the leash Not signed up for Tuts as yet, as Friday is manic here but never say never. Also I have Track Scotland on the Saturday. Would be good to hook up, it has been to long.

Well, set about the weekly after and pre track check with the intentions of the usual checks plus brake pad replacement all round. Turned out that I required a bit more as the n/s/r inner drive shaft boot had disintegrated and the inner cv joint was shot. So a new complete drive shaft was the order of the day complete with a new bearing assembly. Not a huge job labour wise but the parts are not cheap, luckily I had all in stock. Just goes to show that no matter how well you maintain your car there is always the stuff that you do not legislate for.

I have the OEM oil fiter and crush washers in stock and good to go same next day. JDM and UK are the same. Drop me a pm if I can help you further Alex.

The undertray is fixed at the front with bolts David.

Take your door card off and have a look.

What you got to swop Paul that I would be interested in?

A new door card will not solve your issues These parts are available to buy on there own and are not part of the door card

Unfortunately if it is the fly then replacement is the only option as it is not a servicable item. Clutch replacement and release bearing is also advised when you have the gearbox out. Exedy clutch kits, Fidanza single mass lightened aluminium flywheels and OEM LUK dual mass flywheels always in stock and good to go same next day. Upgraded clicky axle kits also in stock Let me know if I can help you further. Alex.

Sounds like clutch bearing or gearbox idler gear. Flywheels can also be noisy. Alex.

No need to reprogramme if you are quick with the swop over as the key fob is not happy with the battery removed for more than 30 seconds. I have loads of spare new fob batteries with a sell by date of Sept. 2013, send me over your addy and I will stick one in the post to you. Alex.

Quality Rehan, never comes cheap my friend. "Do it once" is my moto.

32mm socket and a big bar

HKS or Motordyne XYZ everytime.

Pulling the clutch fork boot back and lubricating the pivot ball fulcrum point should work if the squeak is from there. Perhaps you require a new clutch cover as the squeak may be from the diaphram. Do you have the concentric clutch bearing?

Spray the pedal fulcrum and spring assembly but be careful that you don't get WD40 on the actual pedal.

Exhaust can be left in place when removing the gearbox to swop out the clutch;)

If you let your clutch off fiercely from 1st or reverse then the sticking brake will soon come off.

Probably just the handbrake shoes coming off the drum. Try parking it with the handbrake off and see if the noise is gone. Alex.

pm sent.

Rocker cover gaskets are £11.00 each and I have them in stock. The coil pack oil seals unfortunately are not available on there own as they are part of the rocker cover. An oil seal failure will only give you an internal oil leak whilst a gasket failure will result in an external oil leak. I have new rocker covers in stock at around £300.00 each or preowned at £95.00 each. Alex.

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Top up you PAS fluid if required and/or fit new belts

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