ZMANALEX

I am afraid that in this instance I agree with Nissan.

The service check lists can be found in your warranty and maintenance booklet.

Best advice that I can give you. TAKE YOUR CAR TO A PROFESSIONAL, THEY WILL HAVE YOUR SPARK PLUG AND BROKEN BITS OUT IN MINUTES.

I do not think that Andlid was far off when he said exhaust manifold gasket. Loose spark plug would also give a similar noise. Impossible to give an informed diagnoses off a sound track. Peeps on here, including myself, are only giving you there thoughts, which usually always leads to confusion. Any half decent technician should be able to diagnose this if the car was in front of him. I had to replace a manifold gasket on mine recently and it is no fun job. Alex.

And I have the replicas, perfect fit, ready for painting with minimum of preparation. In stock and good to go same/next day. viewtopic.php?f=38&t=32894 Alex.

I would certainly not recommend that course of action.

Your socket will be much stronger than the rubber, just carefully chap it on until you get a grip of the plug. The RC is the cam box on the top of engine. There are two of them, but you will only have to remove one, but like I said previously this should not be necessary.

You should be able to get the socket back over the rubber to remove the plug. Failing that you may have to remove the Rocker Cover if it is really jammed but that is highly unlikely. Once the RC is removed you will still have to overcome the spark plug metal tube which is 100 x 25mm.

Denso Iridium are as good as any In stock and good to go same/next day You have pm Alex.

I have the solenoid valve and the suspension arm Drop me a pm if I can help you further. Alex.

Goodridge lines every time A quality product with perfect fit every time from the market leader and well worth the extra cost. In stock and good to go same/next day at £125.00 RBF fluid 600/660 in stock £12.50 and £17.25 respectively. Drop me a pm if I can help you further Alex.

That is a strange one. How is your oil pressure? Does dipping the clutch make any difference. Like any type of engine noise best get this diagnosed properly before there is any resulting damage. The fuel damper and pipe is situated off the fuel rail on the rear of the driver's side cyl. head just down the back of the plenum. Where are you based as there are a few 350Z specialists around the UK. Alex.

Cheers for the quick reply...can it really make a sound like this?? I've read that if you hold the damper you can feel it knocking, unless I was grabbing the wrong thing I couldn't feel any knocking from it. Engine oil is spot on the MAX line...I'm pedantic about stuff like that!! Guess that I will now go and have a listen to your video.

No worries Dan. I should have been a bit more clearer with my advice: Replace clutch slave and fluid change followed by master cyl. if problem still exists. There is a technique in getting all the air out the system though. Good luck when you return to Nissan.

Fuel damper But as a precaution check your engine oil level. Alex.

I have already given the OP my thoughts on this by PM, but I obviously have not convinced him of the simple fix. Alex.

Do remember guys that I do live in the middle of a forest.

It would have been exactly that if I had not spotted it, in fact it probably would have thrown the shaft within a few laps with disastrous results but hey ho we live to tell the tale. Is this the first change you done since tracking the car or rather since you went big on power? Would you be able to hear or feel any progressive changes if the shaft was on its way out or is it a case of sudden let go i am already having cold sweats at this thought When you do your checks do you take all the wheels out and check the whole shafts, brakes, suspension component, undercar area and the usual engine checks? Hi Bennet, Yip, retained the OEM shafts as I felt that there was no need to upgrade even with running 600bhp. There were no evident pregressive changes and the car is so loud that no "clicky" noises could be heard. I had the failure only because the boot split and disintigrated resulting in total loss of cv joint grease. Yes, a full and proper after and pre track check is carried out once or twice per week consisting of all you list and much, much more which usually takes around 4 hours plus any remedial work. All fluids (except coolant) are changed on a regular 4 week cycle and brake pads are removed and inspected weekly. Nothing is left to chance but nowt you can do to avoid a rubber boot splitting. These boots are tuff so I suspect that it may have come into contact with some track debris. Running FI weekly on track is very high maintenance but if you can keep on top of it you will reap what you sow. I have been running FI since 2005 on this current Zed and have had no serious mishaps even though I track every week. The secret is in the build and the mapping and a very regular, strict, extreme, maintenance schedule.

It would have been exactly that if I had not spotted it, in fact it probably would have thrown the shaft within a few laps with disastrous results but hey ho we live to tell the tale.

Hi Adam, Only coming out to play if your girlfriend is off the leash Not signed up for Tuts as yet, as Friday is manic here but never say never. Also I have Track Scotland on the Saturday. Would be good to hook up, it has been to long.

Well, set about the weekly after and pre track check with the intentions of the usual checks plus brake pad replacement all round. Turned out that I required a bit more as the n/s/r inner drive shaft boot had disintegrated and the inner cv joint was shot. So a new complete drive shaft was the order of the day complete with a new bearing assembly. Not a huge job labour wise but the parts are not cheap, luckily I had all in stock. Just goes to show that no matter how well you maintain your car there is always the stuff that you do not legislate for.

I have the OEM oil fiter and crush washers in stock and good to go same next day. JDM and UK are the same. Drop me a pm if I can help you further Alex.

The undertray is fixed at the front with bolts David.

Take your door card off and have a look.