ZMANALEX

I have ALL in stock mate. For the avoidance of doubt, best to post up a picture of what you require. They will not be expensive. Alex.

I have ALL the pipes, hoses and clips in stock, preowned but in great shape. However you really have to identify where the leak is from. There is absolutely no point in guessing. One OEM spring type clip is sufficient on each hose end and an added normal jubilee clip will only help in squashing the hose out of shape. Let me know how I can help you further mate Regards, Alex.

One word springs to mind "muppets"

There is no cable mate as it is a fly by wire set up. Try giving the fulcrum/pivot point (at the top of the pedal) a spray with WD40 or similar. Alex.

I should be able to help you with this if the polishing does not work for you. Preowned facelift headlights in stock and good to go same/next day Drop me a pm if I can help you further mate Alex.

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In stock and good to go same/next day viewtopic.php?f=157&t=42415&p=626605#p626605

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+1 As what Chris has said.

Best to get your old sensors back and try them as that would be the cheapest option.

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After reading the above my guess is that you are running with wide band front O2 sensors which came in the manifolds with the UK engine. I reckon that your JDM should have non wide band sensors and this may be your issue. Swop over the front sensors from your old engine and see if this cures your problem. Alex

The front shims that I previously sent you free of charge were preowned. Do you want new or preowned for the rear? Alex.

James, There are 8 shims for the rear mate, do you require them all? Alex.

At the top of the pedal mate If you get your head under the dash you will soon see where the pedal pivots up in the pedal box area. You will also see a pedal return spring, give this a soak as well while working the pedal by hand. This is not guaranteed to fix your issue but well worth a try as it only takes a minute. Alex.

Pm received and replied to

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Ryan. Lubricate the clutch pedal fulrum area with an aerosol of WD 40 or similar and remember and wipe excess fluid from the pedal. Alex.

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As what Keyser has said. WD 40 or similar and a breaker bar are your friends. The rusty bolts/nuts in your picture are the rear toe and camber snail cam adjusters. Looking at the numbers in your graph, I would reckon that once you get the rear into check then the fronts may well come back into tollerance. If you still have camber issues on the front then you will have to replace the top suspension arm, however I do not think that you will require to do this unless your suspension is lowered. As regards the rear bolts, if push come to shove, I have plenty preowned ones in stock. I also have the top front suspension arms in stock. Finally, I would take your car to another alignment specialist who has the capabilities of loosening off a tight rusty bolt and nut, it is hardly rocket science. Alex.

Then this is what you should be looking for mate. It is an outdoor, however it will work inside as well. Unfortunately I am out of stock at the moment.

Sorry, meant to attach this link to my last post. viewtopic.php?f=157&t=43548 Alex.

I got fresh stock of these in last week. They are probably one of the best indoor covers that you can get and represent superb value. They are for the 370 but fit the 350 as well Alex.

Neilp and Keyser are on the money. Also, OEM slave should be fine for your application. There is a set procedure for manually bleeding the clutch which must be followed if you are to get all the air out the system. Also A braided line would be a plan. The fault will be: (a) Air in system ( Issue with new components. © Issue with fitters. Alex.

Nismo style V1 in stock and good to go. Guaranteed superb fit Alex.