ZMANALEX

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As what Keyser has said. WD 40 or similar and a breaker bar are your friends. The rusty bolts/nuts in your picture are the rear toe and camber snail cam adjusters. Looking at the numbers in your graph, I would reckon that once you get the rear into check then the fronts may well come back into tollerance. If you still have camber issues on the front then you will have to replace the top suspension arm, however I do not think that you will require to do this unless your suspension is lowered. As regards the rear bolts, if push come to shove, I have plenty preowned ones in stock. I also have the top front suspension arms in stock. Finally, I would take your car to another alignment specialist who has the capabilities of loosening off a tight rusty bolt and nut, it is hardly rocket science. Alex.

Then this is what you should be looking for mate. It is an outdoor, however it will work inside as well. Unfortunately I am out of stock at the moment.

Sorry, meant to attach this link to my last post. viewtopic.php?f=157&t=43548 Alex.

I got fresh stock of these in last week. They are probably one of the best indoor covers that you can get and represent superb value. They are for the 370 but fit the 350 as well Alex.

Neilp and Keyser are on the money. Also, OEM slave should be fine for your application. There is a set procedure for manually bleeding the clutch which must be followed if you are to get all the air out the system. Also A braided line would be a plan. The fault will be: (a) Air in system ( Issue with new components. © Issue with fitters. Alex.

Nismo style V1 in stock and good to go. Guaranteed superb fit Alex.

Just press in the outmost part of the flat section and it will release.

If you mean the throttle body then there is a release clip on the block connector Do not force it off

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Go for these Dblock Great price They are worth £70.00 each as scrap value at the moment. Win win matey

Come on then Alex, post up a GB price Unfortunately I do not have the time to organise a GB mate, however I have replied to a PM received from the OP.

Perhaps I can help with this as I have 6 in stock at present.

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More stable because it is probably a 90/10 mix once in the tyre unless you run a vac. which then may give you 100% nitrogen

Cheers Alex, but why would the stealers quote two prices and say one type requires more bits to be removed? Also does your car have handbrake cables going to each rear wheel? Cheers Dicky Don't know why they would quote you two prices mate, perhaps there are two types that I am not aware of. There is a cable going to each rear wheel which hooks up to the handbrake shoes inside the disc/drum. So one adjuster in each drum in one adjuster inside the cabin. Alex.

Doesnt most trackdays that arent open pitlane have a one lap warmup? usually a sighting lap. No great speed and not enough to get heat into tyres etc. My tyre pressures were set at 35psi before going on track and after 8 laps the were at 42psi on one side and 40 on the other. Best solution is to nitrogen fill. Cheap and an easy fix and helps on normal motorway journeys etc. mmm nitrogen thats a tad overkill IMO. Ill keep track on my pressures I just need a good baseline (cold setting to work on, Im guessing the sides will be all over the place so best bring my air compressor for the ride home!) nitrogen is only a quid a tyre from qwik-fit mate Nitrogen moves as well Neil, trust me. Choice of tyre pressures are down to the individual and the type of tyres they run and the type of track and whether it is open pit lane. Most run at a pressure that suits there driving style and what they are comfortable with. At Knockhill for instance, running the Zed on open pitlane, if I am running "standard" tyres then I start cold at 35psi all round. After a few warm up laps and then a few spirited laps I will come in and check the pressures which on a summer's day will be circa 44psi. I will reduce all to 35psi except the L/H front which I will reduce to 37psi. I will then have a serious 10 lap session and the pressures will be rechecked and they will more than likely be back up to around 40 psi. I will reduce again to 35/37 and that will be me for the rest of the day. The one thing that you must watch with this strategy is that if you have an extended cool down period in excess of 15 minutes then you must be extremely carefull on your next first few laps as the pressures will be extremely low, however once you are back in the groove you will soon be back up to 35/37. I use the same strategy for slicks however the numbers are different. Alex

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There is only one type as far as I know and adjustment will take around 15 minutes. Rear wheels off to access the brake shoe adjusters and ash tray out to access the cable adjuster. Alex.

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Karl, I would be inclined to be having a look at the CPS (crank position sensor) Take it back to the garage and get it up on the ramp mate. Alex.

Great news Wai Man Happy days again mate

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Hi and welcome to the forum