ZMANALEX

Eazy Peazy to trace the location of a cell phone especially if it is a smart phone. Have a read here. http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/how-to-track-a-cell-phone/ Alex.

I sure do as I have a preowned set at £395.00. Just drop me a PM if I can help further. Alex.

The flare makes the seal mate. Just carry out as above and fit a new male nut to replace your damaged one. Alex.

As what Chris has said or you can simply cut off the flare and remove the damaged nut, fit new nut and then make new flare. The repaired pipe will be circa 5mm shorter, however it will reach the hose. The tools required would be a small hacksaw, file and a flaring tool. Alex.

You can also manually adjust both headlamps by using the beam adjusters on the rear of the headlights: Alex.

Jez, I have all the preowned parts in stock that you require mate. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

I doubt if the wheel will be damaged, however I still have new and preowned 19" LMGT4 rims in stock if required. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

The self leveling is only activated when you load up the boot. Alex.

If Steve does not have one I have plenty preowned in stock. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

An air impact hammer with the correct blade attachment may work to release the sleeve. However be careful and not break the stud or you will have to weld in a replacement stud which Nissan do not suply, however I have preowned studs in stock if required, but you really must try and avoid breaking the stud at all costs. Alex.

A Bolster chisel also works very well due to the thin blade and gradual taper. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/sd3192?mkwid=sr8hH1By4_dc&pcrid=26321582485&pkw=bolster+chisel&pmt=b&gclid=CKyz9P70u7oCFceWtAodm1UA0Q Alex.

It is relatively easy, however it is time consuming and not a cheap option. If you are selling, then best to sell as is. Most of the rev up engines drink oil which is a well documented fact. Alex.

Most are stuck to the stud Pete. Give it a good soak with releasing fluid and just keep working away. In extreme cases I have had to use a puller, however if you enter from the inside with a long tapered cold chisel between the chassis leg and the top of the compression rod bush, then you should get it to move by about 1mm. After that, just keep persevering away and keep plenty fluid on it. Alex.

If you are planning on keeping the car then fit an HR if you can source a complete known unit including all ancillaries including throttle bodies and air filter housings, wiring looms, ECU, radiator and gearbox. etc.etc.etc. You will also require a bespoke wiring loom which I believe Abbey have. Alex.

Only 3 slots left: http://www.trackscot...der=asc&start=0 http://trackscotland.co.uk/booking/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=8 Alex.

B = Camber A = Traction Alex

The sensor is on the end of the sensor cable and removing the 12mm headed bolt on the inside of the hub will allow removal of the sensor. The magnetic pick up ring on the inside of the hub bearing is where the sensor marries up to. Preowned front hub bearings/sensor magnetic rings and ABS sensors are all in stock if required and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

I have had no personal experience with these arms however the old adage of "you get what you pay for" springs to mind. They are certainly not genuine Nissan arms and will most certainly not be be manufactured in the UK, so perhaps may be of Taiwan origin. Alex.

You will require it on a ramp and once you drop the transmission crossmember access is fairly easy, trust me. If you are finding it difficult, before you start removing the switch, I would suggest that you disconnect the wiring connector from the switch and test the lights in the appropriate manner, just to establish if the switch is definately faulty. Alex.

The RLS is just up the L/H side of the transmission casing and quite easy to get to. #27 from the schematic. Alex

Hi and welcome to the forum Steve. I also live just a few miles outside Dundee. Alex.

I have a pair of preowned original black sun visors if required. Both have vanity mirrors with working illumination. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

The pad click will more than likely just be the pads moving in the caliper, and regards the light issue, I would treble check your brake fluid level. Alex.

5W30 fully synth is the recommended lubricant for the VQ35DE. The tensioners and chains can be replaced but it is not a two minute job. For your correct oil and filter requirements, just drop a PM to: http://www.350z-uk.com/user/19714-clark-motorsportzmanalex/ (http://www.350z-uk.com/user/19714-clark-motorsportzmanalex/) Alex.

Timing chain rattle for a few seconds is quite common on the VQ35DE. Correct oil viscosity and level is very important. Chain stretch and tensioner and slipper wear is also common on high mileage motors. Just remove the R/H inspection cover to view the main chain tensioner and if you find that the tensioner is extended by more than 10mm then you will have a stretched chain. Remember that you have 3 chains on the VQ35DE and other issues can also cause chain rattle. Alex.