ZMANALEX

An air impact hammer with the correct blade attachment may work to release the sleeve. However be careful and not break the stud or you will have to weld in a replacement stud which Nissan do not suply, however I have preowned studs in stock if required, but you really must try and avoid breaking the stud at all costs. Alex.

A Bolster chisel also works very well due to the thin blade and gradual taper. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/sd3192?mkwid=sr8hH1By4_dc&pcrid=26321582485&pkw=bolster+chisel&pmt=b&gclid=CKyz9P70u7oCFceWtAodm1UA0Q Alex.

It is relatively easy, however it is time consuming and not a cheap option. If you are selling, then best to sell as is. Most of the rev up engines drink oil which is a well documented fact. Alex.

Most are stuck to the stud Pete. Give it a good soak with releasing fluid and just keep working away. In extreme cases I have had to use a puller, however if you enter from the inside with a long tapered cold chisel between the chassis leg and the top of the compression rod bush, then you should get it to move by about 1mm. After that, just keep persevering away and keep plenty fluid on it. Alex.

If you are planning on keeping the car then fit an HR if you can source a complete known unit including all ancillaries including throttle bodies and air filter housings, wiring looms, ECU, radiator and gearbox. etc.etc.etc. You will also require a bespoke wiring loom which I believe Abbey have. Alex.

Only 3 slots left: http://www.trackscot...der=asc&start=0 http://trackscotland.co.uk/booking/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=0&products_id=8 Alex.

B = Camber A = Traction Alex

The sensor is on the end of the sensor cable and removing the 12mm headed bolt on the inside of the hub will allow removal of the sensor. The magnetic pick up ring on the inside of the hub bearing is where the sensor marries up to. Preowned front hub bearings/sensor magnetic rings and ABS sensors are all in stock if required and good to go same/next day. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

I have had no personal experience with these arms however the old adage of "you get what you pay for" springs to mind. They are certainly not genuine Nissan arms and will most certainly not be be manufactured in the UK, so perhaps may be of Taiwan origin. Alex.

You will require it on a ramp and once you drop the transmission crossmember access is fairly easy, trust me. If you are finding it difficult, before you start removing the switch, I would suggest that you disconnect the wiring connector from the switch and test the lights in the appropriate manner, just to establish if the switch is definately faulty. Alex.

The RLS is just up the L/H side of the transmission casing and quite easy to get to. #27 from the schematic. Alex

Hi and welcome to the forum Steve. I also live just a few miles outside Dundee. Alex.

I have a pair of preowned original black sun visors if required. Both have vanity mirrors with working illumination. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Alex.

The pad click will more than likely just be the pads moving in the caliper, and regards the light issue, I would treble check your brake fluid level. Alex.

5W30 fully synth is the recommended lubricant for the VQ35DE. The tensioners and chains can be replaced but it is not a two minute job. For your correct oil and filter requirements, just drop a PM to: http://www.350z-uk.com/user/19714-clark-motorsportzmanalex/ (http://www.350z-uk.com/user/19714-clark-motorsportzmanalex/) Alex.

Timing chain rattle for a few seconds is quite common on the VQ35DE. Correct oil viscosity and level is very important. Chain stretch and tensioner and slipper wear is also common on high mileage motors. Just remove the R/H inspection cover to view the main chain tensioner and if you find that the tensioner is extended by more than 10mm then you will have a stretched chain. Remember that you have 3 chains on the VQ35DE and other issues can also cause chain rattle. Alex.

Jamie, let me know what the fault code is and I will soon tell you what the EML issue is. Also remember that you have to press the brake before the roof will work. Alex.

I run the full 7 piece GT Spec kit on my 350Z Roadster. You will probably have to elongate the mounting holes on the rear lower bar so that it fits the repositioned toe bolts. There is always the chance of movement of the snail cam adjusters and that is why you should fit adjustable arms and then fit lock plates to the redundant snail cams. Alex.

Orriss, Your Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected that the throttle control motor relay is stuck ON. Power supply for the throttle control motor is provided to the ECM via the throttle control motor relay. The throttle control motor relay ON/OFF is controlled by the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned ON, the ECM sends an ON signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is provided to the ECM. When the ignition switch is turned OFF, the ECM sends an OFF signal to throttle control motor relay and battery voltage is not provided to the ECM. This will explain why you are going onto limp mode. Just because the relay is stuck on does not necessarily mean that the relay is faulty. Possible causes including the relay, could be dirty connections, faulty wiring, or even ECU or IPDM. Alex.

Preowned bonnet urgently required for 350Z VQ35DE. This is for a "shy" forum member in the Manchester area who prefers to collect and pay cash. Let me know by PM what you have. Alex.

http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=28650&utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=html&utm_campaign=2013-10-14

No drama mate, looks like I will just have to fit it to my own car after all: :lol: The boot is a cheap part from Nissan at only £7.52 + vat so not the end of the world. Alex.

I have one of these in stock and good to go next day. I was keeping this for my own car but you are welcome to it. Just drop me a PM if I can help you further. Regards, Alex.

The last Track Scotland KRC Open Pitlane 4 hour session of 2013: Book now or be disappointed as these sell out very quickly: :drive1 :drive1 http://www.trackscotland.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6246&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Alex.

1 x litre per 1000 miles is common on the rev up. Either live with it or sell it on remembering to disclose the oil consumption issue. Alex.