ZMANALEX

6.4 kg is a tad light and will only add to the chatter. The lighter the fly the more change in inertia. However, it is what it is and within a few months you will become accustomed to it. Perhaps in hindsight, you should have fitted the Extreme clutch and fly kit, which would have been much quieter.

The SMF has no damping properties so any transmission noises will be "exaggerated" That is one of the reasons why manufacturers install a DMF from the factory to "mask" such noises. Just don't labour it and keep the revs above 1500 rpm and you will be fine. What brand of clutch and SMF did you fit?

It is normal for SMF to chatter below 2000 rpm. A change in driving style will almost alleviate your issue.

I am sure that I can help you with this, just let me know what you require.

If Brembo fitment, front shims are part of the OEM pads, however, aftermarket are available. Rear shims are sold separately from Nissan or aftermarket.

to the forum.

to the forum Ian.

Should have Gunmetal in stock mate. What year and model is your car? Just drop me a PM if I can help further.

to the forum. None of the parts that you have mentioned are expensive to replace. I am dismantling 4 x 350Zs at the moment so I always have a good supply of low mileage preowned rust free parts in stock. Have a look at the buyer's guide on this forum, lots of good info in there. Alex.

to the forum:

to the forum.

Best to refit it, however, if you are not carrying a heavy load in the boot, then not required. All it does is adjusts your headlight beam to stop dazzling oncoming cars when your boot is loaded.

Sorry, nothing in Silver Rob. Alex.

I have lived here for 35 years and never seen this before. https://www.pressandjournal.co.uk/fp/news/scotland/1424616/deer-take-dander-scottish-town/?utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=PJ Daily Newsletter 2018-02-28&utm_term=Press and Journal - Newsletter

Nissan direct is your best bet.

Have a look here. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_350Z Is it similar to below?

An image of the FRONT of the engine if you are unsure.

Rev up or pre rev up ? Or an image of the front of the engine if you are unsure. Pre rev up are in stock and perhaps rev up also. Alex.

Any codes stored Dougie? What is the condition of the battery? Check battery terminals and starter motor connections. Top up brake fluid right to the top. Report back once above attended to. If you are at Knockhill tomorrow I can have a quick look. Alex.

Congratulations to Flash as he makes the move to WTCR with team WRT Audi. Certainly a big loss to BTCC and Team Dynamics.

If you want to have peace of mind when in the tyre shop using guns then best to stick with OEM or similar quality aftermarket steel. All aftermarket lug nuts including the above are recommended to be only tightened with hand tools.

They are a bit of a pig to get correct, that is why when I am removing/refitting doors I always leave the hinge on the pillar. If I have got to replace a hinge then I always mark the hinge position on the pillar. So I guess that you are now in a situation of adjustment trial and error. If your replacement hinge came from a damaged car, then perhaps the hinge may have a slight twist that you will not see with the naked eye.

There is adjustment on the hinges where they fix to the pillar, so I would guess that you have bolted them up in the wrong position.

http://www.carhood.com/

Crawford is a very good brand: I personally prefer them to Berks.