Ekona

Yes they are. Source. Not sure what kind of MOT tester you spoke to. For the record I ran for a couple of years with no numberplate on the front of the VXR and had no issues with police, I did have to quickly gaffer tape on one for the MOTs though! ;lol:

It's not about excess of heat, it's lack of even heat. You will not be warming up all parts of the engine equally as nothing will be circulating with any force, so you end with parts of the block suffering from different rates of thermal expansion. As an extreme example, imagine cylinder 1 having loads of heat because it's right next to the oil pump and water pump, but cylinder 6 is furthest away and so you have one side of the engine expanding at a much different rate. This can lead to things like bore scoring and cylinder walls destabilising. Don't get me wrong, neither of which are likely to happen to the Zed as the engine is a good 'un, but by introducing the possibility you can be opening a can of worms. It's okay to leave things idling after a hard run (i.e. cooling down on a trackday) as everything is nicely warm and even, but to start a stone cold engine and then leave it is not best practice. Admittedly some older cars do require a certain amount of idling before moving off, but that's by design and a result of older manufacturing techniques. Well that cannot be helped, but by that point you've already started a better circulation of the engine fluids by simply moving away so you're already reaping the benefits. Please don't get me wrong, I'm not for one moment suggesting that leaving your car idling for 5 mins in the morning is going to cause any sort of damage you'd probably ever notice, but it does introduce the possibility. For me, I would always seek to reduce that risk of giving myself grief in the future, but each to their own.

That doesn't mean they can't have an opinion. The difference is that you can break the law knowingly but accept the consequences, or you can do it and whinge about it when you get pulled. One is fair enough, one is utterly pointless.

More knowledge. Sorry dude, I know that sounds harsh, but you are as far from building an SC Zed as I am from building a rocketship to Mars. It's like saying I have an engine, now what do I need to make a car?

Oh wonderful, here we go. Even if he does, that's completely irrelevant. If he came back on here and queried why he was being done for speeding then fair comment, but he hasn't. As such, irrelevant point. I still have no idea why this perception that everyone who owns a fast car must speed on the public roads. They don't.

Reducing oil pressure is probably the worst thing you can do. You may be reducing boost on the turbo but the temp will not drop that quickly, and you will want the cooling properties of the oil as much as the lubrication. Bigger oil pump is the way forward.

You may have removed the wax after machine buffing it. Wax mainly adds protection and depth, it's polishing that really makes the paint shine. What were you using? Machine, buffing pads and wax?

So much bad advice here, it hurts. Do NOT leave the car to warm up. Start engine and move away promptly. What you should be doing then is limiting yourself to about half revs until engine oil (not coolant) is warm, so about 10-15 mins before allowing yourself hard throttle and rev-range use. All modern (2000+) vehicles should be driven like this. Leaving a car to idle creates hot spots and can lead to damage long term.

If you're worried about how the front of your car looks, just don't run a plate but keep it in the boot ("Oh, it fell off officer!"). Less of a fine, and doesn't look retarded. If you're sensible and just accept that some things are how they are, then run the cheapest, most legal plate you can get your hands on. I can honestly say I've never looked at a modified car and thought, "Wow, that 3/4 plate with a Z logo on the side really sets the car off nicely!".

Onto the what now?

A good example of an illegal plate there, Will. You cannot put any symbol other than an EU, ENG, SCO or WAL flag/lettering in that space. EDIT Sauce

You're the second person I've seen say that the touchscreen was awful on AC4. I look forward to seeing how developers use that in future games.

Yes. Just yes. Personal experience. They're not recommended in winter of course, and tbh it's not really a great idea, but somehow I miraculously managed to survive two winters when I ran them on the VXR (admittedly on 048s), another on the Zed, and a massive blat around the snow-covered IoM in an MR2. It's all about getting heat into them, and if you can do that then they're great: Well worth a handful of seconds on a damp cold winter track, easy. I don't disagree that for some people winter tyres are the best option, but for most people summer tyres will be fine and a smaller handful will be able to stay on semi-slicks without too much bother. As always with these things, it's very driver dependant. Of course winter tyres will be better in the snow than summer tyres, but then we're back to the question of "Should you really be driving?" and "Is the rest of the vehicle suitable for purpose?". An FR car is not ideal for driving when you have a lot of snow (it's the worst choice), so that should be taken into consideration before setting off regardless of tyre choice. Winter tyres do not a driving god make. Much like 4x4 is not invincible.

Also laggy right now, and very dependant on proximity to the PS4 according to the reviews by the major gaming sites. Although, congrats on being one of the seven people in the West who bought a Vita! I really want to try the PS4 controller.

The best bits about the KB vids is the editing. By far.

If you could get heat into them, 888s will give more grip in the winter than winter tyres. Winter tyres are at their best when temps drop below zero, or when driving through torrential rain. Otherwise, summer tyres and common sense will usually be better.

Will never happen. XBL is closed loop now. XBL will not allow crossplay between 360 and Xbone titles either.

Is it grip or feel you want? Something like the 453 would give you the former at the expense of the latter, or the VUS (if available) will be the opposite. Of course, you could just get the MPSS and get both, along with much longer life from them, but you would break your budget. Worth every single penny, mind.

Also an MOT fail. No-one ever does, but you could.

HBTY HBTY HBDR HBTY I genuinely had no idea you were that old. Granted, don't think we've ever met nor have I seen a pic, but I'd have pegged around 35 tops.

I'm signing nothing. It's not down to MS to make sure that stuff other companies make works with new kit, that's down to the individual manufacturers to sort. Yes, it sucks if you spent big on a Fanatec wheel, but anyone who bought one thinking it was going to last forever is a fool. I didn't expect my 360 wheel to work with the Xbone.

DPD?

/spoilsport

It's not in B&Q: The price is in dollars.

None if those have been mentioned, buggerlugs