Ekona

Well yeah, that's a good point: This has pretty much killed the 370Z off straight away.

Who on earth is going to spend £28K on the 4 pot when the V8 is just £4K more?! What a waste of the engineering that's gone into that. Great price though, I expected north of £40K at least.

Don't ever buy a car you've not driven. Ever. I've done it twice and got away with it, but they were both main dealer purchases and I was young and naive Go with your gut. Ask them about warranties, ask to see the HPI check too. At this point it's all a bit irrelevant as you've committed to buy the car, but I'd rather lose £200 than end up with a £4K stinker.

If you read other links, that's got nowt to do with Ferrari. It's just a showpiece for the artist. It's also very, very ugly.

Quote edited for brevity But yeah, he really does know his onions. I'd listen to the man, whilst it's only one opinion it's a very knowledgeable one.

Sometimes I think they just put names into a hat and the ones they draw out get approved. The rest get filed under B.

That's utterly useless, can't even find my details despite me not having moved or anything in the last 12 years. Experian got it right first time.

It's a sod of a job, and the more complex the car the more wiring you have to work out! It's still a job I need to do on the MR2, but there's not really much there to remove in terms of weight.

Fugly as hell.

I suspect you're screwed. Mortgage companies do not like loaning to folks with any bad history at all, due to how tight the government made the regs now on them checking affordability. You may have better luck with a mortgage co specialising in bad histories, but expect to pay a crappy interest rate. What percentage deposit do you have? Are you past 15%? Just been through all this myself, albeit with perfect credit histories. Still took three months, still felt like it was never going to happen. Sarnie is your man though.

It'll be narrower and harder, so more likely to cut through the snow. You will reduce the contact patch by increasing pressure (think about what happens to overinflated worn tyres), and that can make it enough to cut through. That said, and Doc's own experience backs this up, you can happily try to drop the pressures massively too: That's the easier thing to do, however you then run the risk of the tyre spitting off the rim when you drop it low enough to make a difference. Most people would drop the pressures, simply because it's easier to remove air by the side of the road when in a drift than add it! Winter tyres are always preferred in the smaller sizes because of this. The compound is softer to warm up quicker, that's all. Same reason I run the softest 888s I can on the MR2.

Nah, it'll be fine. Maybe some NoNails or whatever you've got floating around, I only used mastic as I had a tube on the van.

Old carpet, tube of mastic, done.

LALALALALALALA CAN'T HEAR YOU

Well then that's why they've lasted three years ya ninny!

This really is very impressive stuff, y'know. Good on you mate, really enjoying this

On my third year with my Nankang SV-2's Running all year round? How many miles a year?

No, because you're using a smaller contact patch to put more downwards pressure to cut through the snow to get to the road underneath You're going to have massively reduced grip in the snow regardless, this is just the best way to make best of the situation.

They do, which is why they wear out so quickly when it warms up a tad.

Depends on your definition of better, but each to their own as always

Well yeah, you and me both. The 645 asks for anything between 95 and 98, but why would I not give a performance car the best?

No, you're right Paddy, but a lot of people haven't read the question.

You don't, clearly, so no.

Yup, as Colin says either pump the pressures up to about 40 (remembering to drop them when out of snow!), or if you're on snow a lot then proper winter tyres will be far superior.

Shell is 99, it's BP that's 97.