Ekona

And an RWD conversion, I assume?

Wait, people actually need to be told that stuff?

Wrong wheels and wrong lights aren't helping at all, I still feel.

Define better.

BWAHAHAHAHAHA :lol: Sorry, but Audi S paint is the spawn of Satan. Prepare for HOURS of graft to see even the slightest improvement, it's a nightmare. You'll want some aggressive compounds and pads, and a lot of them. The Scholl S3 would be a good place to start, and I like the Lake Country pads so blue is the most aggressive one they do. Then you can step down to 17+ and finally 30 in the Scholl range. You'll end up with a lot of holograms at first, but persevere and you will get there. Don't be afraid to give it some stick, but as always start with the lightest stuff and work your way up. Even though the light stuff won't touch it, but just in case

30 day warranty?! Please don't tell me you actually fell for that? The car is covered STILL by the CRA, regardless of any other gumpf he throws at you. Still, glad you got a good result. Would you care to share with us how this came to pass, so others can benefit and know what process to follow should they find themselves in the same situation? Bet Friday can't come fast enough!

My point exactly. I didn't realise Brillo was referring to the MPSS though. Given how long the MPSS last, I can't see any reason for it to be worth taking a drop in performance for tyres that last a ridiculous amount, rather than just an incredible amount.

The manufacturer-specific branding isn't really relevant these days IMHO, since most oil is of a sufficiently decent quality that pretty much anything will do*. Put it this way, I'd rather a correct spec weighting and a decent brand over any random set of specific numbers printed on the back. Please note, I do not classify that ****-thin Magnatec as a motor oil. Suitable for water colour painting, maybe.

Really? I didn't rate the MPS3 very highly at all. I mean, they were okay as far as tyres in the smaller sizes go, but the Neovas were head and shoulders above them.

Measure it stone cold and you have the oil at its thickest (so it sticks to the dipstick better without running and giving false readings), and you also know 100% that every last drop is in the sump. Do it when it's warm and you get the opposite. That said, after 30mins I'd expect it to be vaguely close to where it should be. The fact it's reading approx 1/2 a litre over where it is when cold leads me to think that it's sticking to the dipstick awkwardly, so not giving you a true reading. You could just drop the entire contents and refill, that way you know for definite how much is in there.

What system do you have? Standard, Bose, or something else?

Erm, bloody hell. Sorry to see this fella, that's got to be an awful way to lose a car.

...which is why I don't like this thread. Great in theory, but it does mean that you're potentially costing your fellow Zedders more money.

I've been in an R35. The interior is ugly. Living with one won't change that

Hang on, an R35 owner moaning about another car having an ugly interior? Pot kettle black much?! ;)

I do, actually. It's very stylish, but then I liked the old one too. That was an absolute hoot to drive, the engine was wonderful and the 4WD very unobtrusive. Full bore launch in the rain was hysterical! And the interior is magnificent. The new touchscreen blends in beautifully, and I'm glad they've kept the info panel in front of the passenger: That's a great gadget.

There is more noise. It is inconsequential. JFDI.

Well, at least someone is. The rest of us have no frickin' clue what you're on about.

We don't wave, we use our psychic powers to congratulate each other for being awesome. This is why we don't indicate, because we forget that the great unwashed who don't own BMWs don't have awesome psychic abilities too.

Why cars? I mean, what attracted you to them in the first place as a hobby?

Y'know, fair play to you on this Brad. It's utterly financial suicide to do this when the car overall is worth nearly as much as the repair costs and hardly much more when you're done, but to take the job on AND do it properly because you love the car? Yeah, fair play my friend, fair play.

Hopefully put it up as well, as a punishment for being so smug

Because people talk. If the claim was for a couple of grand then probably no-one would know, but if it was for a couple of million after you ran into a bus stop full of kids then they'll be scouring every last detail to be able to come after you for the cash. Already on here we've a number of people who've admitted to doing the course, with zero prompting. For the sake of probably £50 tops, is it worth it?

If profile is important to you, then you simply have to pick the width to suit and accept you will be running a narrower tyre than is ideal. If that then puts it out of spec with the wheel width, then you need narrower wheels. Tbh, profile is the last thing I'd worry about. If you want the gap to *look* smaller in the arches, then just move up a size wheel. It's by far the better way round of doing it, saves any worries about the TCS doing daft things then.

Just run it through their website, using a fake name and the address next door and the same rough details, one with the SAC and one without. But probably very little difference at all, if any.