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About mattfinch

  • Birthday 16/06/1991


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  1. Sorry for the confusion. Yeah I am looking for the whole unit. Basically i want to have clear left and right rear lights so I can wire them to have 2 reverse lights. If you have a clear right one how much you selling it for? Thanks
  2. Hello all Really looking for a drivers side (right) clear reverse lamp. Dont really want to remove the red fog bit myself so anyone selling a clear one or know any people/place that sell them would be good. Cash waiting Also the same with smoked front lights for 05. Cant find anywhere in uk that sell them
  3. Only if you applied the copper grease with a ladle. Dont have one of them in my tool collection. Might have to get one for next time haha
  4. Thanks all. Would by any chance getting some copper grease on the dics or inside of the pad cause this. Not saying I have but there is a chance when sliding the pads back in?
  5. Thanks for reply. I thought this but how would air have got in the system i only took the pads out and pushed the pistons back?
  6. Evening all, Iv been having a little bit of brake squeal so bought some brake pad shims to stick on the back of the pad. I took the pads out and gave everything a good brushing to get dust out. I also used a metel brush and gave the front of the pad a quick scrub. (Dont know if that is a good thing to do or not) Put the shims on the back of the same pads i took out and put some copper grease on the back and put it all back together how it was. When I done this I pushed the caliper pistons back in the caliper with the fluid lid off. Got in the car and pumpped the pedal a few times and it was solid as a rock. Started her and went for a drive. When i apply the brake i have quite a bit of travel before the brakes seem to do anything. If i pump pedal after that brakes and solid and good. Again pull away go to brake and lots of travel again. Has something gone wrong some where or is it a case of these shims need to settle/bed in. Sorry for long read. Thanks
  7. Thanks for the replies. I think your right but might be in the first stage of going under heavy load. Just strange it does not slip when hand break on test and also up hill in 6th. Ill start looking into prices and if it starts to slip again when normal driving will get it done before it goes and leaves me on the side of the road. Thanks again.
  8. Had a look at the clutch fluid today and its very dark. Wound changing the fluid make any difference as the car still seems to be pull fine up hill in 6th?
  9. Thanks for the reply. I gave it a couple of taps on the accelareter which would probbs left the revs around 4k and dumpped it. Should not of done it really. I was expecting the traction control to kick in and cut the power but thats when the revs shot up and the car went no where. I did not know if it was the tc playing up. Have just driven it again and pulls well in the gears and stalls when hand break is on
  10. Hi all. This is the first time this has happened. I was on a long stretch of road doing 50mph. I pressed the clutch in gave it a rev and put it in 3rd to shoot off. However the revs shot up and red lined but the car did not pull and felt like the wheels was just spinning, but they was not. The clutch then stank really bad. The pedel felt soft and easy to push down. I put it in 5th and carried on driving. I tried it again and the same happened. I pulled into a car park put hand break on and lifted the clutch. The revs dropped and stalled. Done this twice. Then drove out and car pulls well in all the gears and revs go up with speed. Any thought? Is my clutch on its way out or was it having a funny 5minutes? Clutch pedel feels normal again and no smells? Any help would be great.
  11. Thanks. The problem im having is the opposite. When its cold before starting it the oil reads just above half way and after driving and leaving it for 30mins it then sits dead on max. Having said that my drive is a very slight slope just enough for a marbal to start rolling on its own so im guessing thats why I get a false reading. Just drove to a flat car park and checked it there and it sits on max. Hopefully the problem is with my drive and not the car
  12. Hello all I have been trying to find out for a long time why my 350 has started losing oil when it’s not leaking or seems to be burning it. I have a 55 DE and runs fine but my oil keeps going down to just above the half way mark on the dip stick after about 500 miles or so. Now I have always checked the oil level before driving the car when its cold and it reads just above half way. Today after a good drive left it for about 30mins and went and checked and it was bang on max as it was still warm. My question does it really make a big different if you check the oil level when cold and hot and also if that is true does that mean all the time I have been topping it up to max in the cold it has just been burning it off as there would have been too much oil in the engine. Thanks
  13. Thanks for all the help. And yes a bike would be a good idea. Will have to get one I think í ½í¸
  14. Ok thanks. I normaly change the oil every 12months or 9k miles. It does sound like this is due to the car not getting to the right temps. Could this damage the engine at all or will it be a case of keep having to top up. Either way I think im going to make sure I do a longer drive to work or let it warm up on the drive for a bit first.
  15. Thanks guys. No smoke at all coming out the back. Apart from the normal white stuff on a cold day for about 2mins lol. But thats not smoke. And yep the oil gauge reads the above as normal too. All I can put it down too is the small travel. Maybe i will take a longer route home for a bit and see if that sorts it. Topped up with some oil and there is a little bit of creamy stuff round the cap. This is no where else like dip stick. Think this could be condensation maybe doing something to make the oil go down or evaperat if thats possible.
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