Rob_Quads

Get Darkroom for the iPhone - helps massively with the camera shake issue

hmmm i wonder if you have somehow crossed the feeds. Might be worth doing some testing. Leave car off but seats on - see if they are warm then remove the head unit and make some more checks

Mines an 04 I have the wiring diag for the model and the heaters are relay switched with the Ignition switch - See attached No company would allow a car accessory with high current draw to be left on by default without the ignition on.

Yep - read the manual ( I didn't have to ) You sure? I have just read the manual and it does not say this. It only says * When your finished turn back to OFF * If you keep your heated seats on without the engine running you could kill the battery Doesn't say the seats stay on. More to the point I have just been away for 8 days from mine with them on and it started fine. Have done it before for 11 days too without any problem. As for the battery - if you have drained it you will have damaged it so i would recommend replacing it. EDIT: Having read the service manual heated seats are ONLY on with ignition. So leaving them switched on with the car off will NOT drain the battery

Not even attempting to drive in - main roads don't look too bad but my street and the link one I have not seen a car get out of yet - way too steep and you just slip. Where are those snowchains when you need them

Who machine polished it - I would have expected them to have sealed it up and given it a good wax too. If they haven't they 'should' have a good idea whats best for it.

yup halfords sell it for a few quid more than other places. Lots of rubbing but it does the job. That combined with a flap wheel cleans the inside of one a treat too.

What head unit - Bose - Factory Standard - After market?

It depends on Age and Millage - Its every 9000 miles or a year since the last one. so 24.5 could be a few K from the 27K service which is the major P3 but if its over 3 years then it should have been done.

I've generally over the years found the guides to be quite a way off. Best way to value a car is look on autotrade & ebay classifieds

With a BOSE I would go with an ICT 29-672 @ £32 - http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/ict/p~29-674.html?cat=0 & the appropriate head unit lead. Not only will that give you your BOSE interface it will also utilize the steering wheel controls too.

Thats a very good price knowing the cost price on that using. With the BOSE system you can get a converter which converts the RCA outputs to the correct level for the BOSE. The problem is not the speakers being the wrong ohmage its the fact the amp expects a signal that is between RCA line level and speaker level.

How much was the head unit in the end? Do you have a BOSE or standard system?

The W502 is sooo much better value. The blackburd nav is not great. I would much rather just buy a W502 and get a TomTom.

Nope - you realise it does not have Navigation or you deicded to remove that from the requirements list?

I think you will struggle to find something that meets your requirements for £900 and is up to spec. Generally the best and only one of a few with nav built in is the DNX8220BT which comes in around £1000. http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/car_ster ... ml?cat=718 If you don't need nav then the Alpine W502 is probably your best bet.

If you are looking for just head unit and bluetooth then it might be worth looking at the new Alpine range - Single Din New CDE104 unit (http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/new_for_ ... ml?cat=732) has iPod connectivity and Parrot bluetooth hands free build into the single unit. If you want to spend a bit more look at the X305 which replaces the X100 http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/alpine/p ... html?cat=0 Double Din The Alpine -IVA-W502 combined with the new KCE-400BT unit would give you a great solution Personally i prefer the X305 solution as it gives an interface virtually the same as the iPod is and super easy to use - also iPhone 3G compatible

"Decent & Good Bass" is not available for <£10. They will be nothing special - pretty crap but you can't expect much in that price range.

It was only after a year and a half my girlfriend found the one under the cupholder Fount it the easiest to use for NAV/Phones. Otherwise a bit of soldering and you can get a socked in the Nav pocket

Surely there must be more lag - there is probably 3 times as much air to compress in that system than a front engine mounted one which obviously takes longer to get presurised. Also how the hell do you keep the inlet dry? It looks like it has some cover over it but under there its going to be drenched compred to the inlet location on the normal car.

Its also possible to test it on a brake pad? The place I used for MOTs (which is nothing special) has one and it measures all the forces when the brakes are applied by just driving up to it and stopping on it. Saves having to take the car out on the drive (also don't think thats very effective as its then down to 'judgement' rather than mechanics/physics giving quantiative results.)

Depends on the system. I have seen the Alpine system with external aerials that go around the rear windows and was fairly impressed with it. Its a Digital system and we got a good signal driving for 30 minutes in southampton

Having been a Windows Mobile guy for years and years - always found it a bit clunky but got there in the end. Few months ago got the iPhone and have not looked back - Its just SOOOO easy to use. The browsing on it is much better than even the likes of Opera on WM. Not the cheapest I will state but there is more development for it than any other mobile by a large margin already. Since getting the iPhone I have used it way more than any other phone I have had - Call etc obviously not really any different but its all the other things like Google Maps to give me traffic when I hit some on the M25, tracking when out snowboarding, games, video on a screen thats its actually not too bad to watch a film on etc

I found adding my mum reduced the premium by £100 - she has no intention to drive it but who cares Unfortunatly the GF put a claim in for a buckled week which screws the premium with her on. That said she said she doesn't want to drive it in fear of curbing a wheel lol

I've got a second hand exhaust to fit onto my Z as its started to blow on the weld on the back box. I'm going to be replacing the back box & middle section. I have the gaskets all ready to roll. Is it feasible to attempt to replace the exhaust myself? I will be attempting it in a workshop and have access to jacks and axle stands. Also have a cordless impact wrench. Was looking to jack up the back and then putting it up on axle stands. Will be soaking the nuts in WD40 the prior 1/2 days to fitting. My exhaust is 5 years old so just a bit worries the nuts won' come off or will snap off on the Y-Section. I enjoy getting my hands dirty and have holiday to use up to do it so its purely a is it possible sort of question or do I try and find a local place to try and fit it (not found a decent back street place yet - few I have asked won't fit second hand stuff) Cheers