Rob_Quads

Its a top top head unit. Does what it says on the tin perfectly. I've played with one and its very good browsing round the iPod etc. Only critisism is that if you have LOADs of artists/albums then it can take a little while to get to the song you want. That said its still way quicker than most the units out there. The 400BT is also MUCH MUCH better than the older Alpine bluetooth units thanks to them giving in and just getting the pros (Parrot) in to do it for them.

I 'think' the one you want is the http://www.sextonsdirect.co.uk/ict/p~50-256.html?cat=0 Although it shows 2 single DIN slots the middle section is removable to turn it into the Double DIN adapter. Might be worth emailing them to double check.

As for keeping the wheel remote controls NOT If you put in an aftermarket HU the bluetooth unit will not really work well - I think technically it does still work but you loose all the controls for it. It would be possible to get it working with a bit of soldering etc but it would not be straight forward

You have to splice in an earth connection. The standard head unit grounds it self to the chassis via the bolts on the casing. As a result you will find that the earth connection on the loom is actually not connected to anything. If you plug in the aerial you might find that you get enough earth contact to power the unit up but its not recommended running it like that (I ran mine for a few months before realizing what was going on)

I see no reason why you can't put on wide tyres as long as you keep the ratios correct i.e. if you go wider you are going to make sure the profile is the right %age to keep the overall size the same. As long as you keep the overall diameter of wheel the same the TCS should be happy

Personally I prefer the parrot for 1 major reason - you get to see whos calling. Glad to see the Parrot kits being integrated into the major head units

If you test drive one keep an eye on the speedo - due to the power being so smooth you might not realise how fast your going. A friend drove one when he was used to turbo cars - commented as we pulled onto the motorway how he was not really sure as it just wasn't very fast....he then looked down and noticed he was doing 95. Where in his cars he would have had 3 kicks from the turbo in the 350z its just constant power, power, power all the way through.

Not fitted one but played with one. Worked well with my iPhone - navigation was very easy. Did not test the blueooth side of things. Might be able to tomorrow as I will be in a place with one

Hi - yes if you just want to retain the factor amp/speakers you could get one of them. If you want to utilise the steering remote you would need the extra adapter

you got any pictures of what you have done?

As mentioned - motorway an easy 30/32mpg local roads its more 16/18mpg. Overall working locally I've averaged 22mpg

Simple but wrong answer I am afraid. The ICT adapter is both a BOSE loom adapter and volume control module. There is no need for a PAC unit if you have the ICT version.

From Nissan then rear olive ring and middle->Y section gasket are around £25

It depends how much paint they put on but chances are the best solution will be to get it wet sanded and then polished up. If they won't do it make sure the insurance company know you are not happy with the repair.

The Kenwood DNX 5220BT is about the best option out there for you. As for sitting yes you will need a adapter - more info here - http://www.350z-uk.com/forum/viewtopic ... =head+unit

Alot of this is down to bulk sms'es. If you have lots of friends it very easy to rack up big numbers if you send out sms's etc saying "meet at the park in 10" to 20/30 people, then you get the replies ... It is a silly high number but much easier than people realise.

The subwoofer on the BOSE unit is just a line off from the normal front/rear inputs. It works out what frequencies the sub should have and sends them on down to it. It does not have a seperate sub feed.

well just over for a P3. Should of been done at 36k but at least we have identified which service you require Would it need a P3? I am guessing that if its only done 38K in 5+ years its not doing 9K each year so it will be tied into the years so it will need 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11 P1, P2, P1, P3, P1, P2, P1, P3 5th year should be P1 not P3, First P3 should have been done last year.

+1 - been itching for an excuse to mod mine. Currently has a massive 200GB drive in it which it doesnt need, will be good to see how the SSD runs as I've heard mixed reviews as to whether they are faster or not I don't think I have actually seen a review which says they are that much faster (maybe 5%) but nothing that 'normal' business will really expose. Will be intersting to see how it goes.

..and if your car gets stolen they will remind you about those wheels and tell you where to go and you will then be way more out of pocket than £120 As said if you are going to mod the car you have to think carefully about insurance. With the checks that go on now I would not risk putting mods like wheels which are highly visible without delairing them on the insurance.

Not supprising really. No-one is buying cars at the moment and there is no 'real' outlook as to when the current financial f***up is going to sort it self out.

Yup 100% correct - you could put an extra light in but you still need a rear fox light (why so many imports end up with the silly stuck on ones)

53.10 is the standard MOT charge now so its a dealer/garage offer if you find it cheaper

Our local Hendy garages all moved into a central location the middle of last year - nice and swanky big showroom - big mazanine floor upstairs for desks etc........there is not a single thing upstairs at the moment. The place looks a bit strange with so much wasted.

I find it really annoying that the fuel guage is connected to the computer too - I always think the gauge should be a straight analogue gauge showing you how much you have left in the tank not a guess on how much combined with what speed you have been doing recently.