Rob_Quads

Work looks spot on. Just goes to show what a proper refurb company can do. When you think what the cost of new wheels is and if done properly then they are as good as new its good value. £60 a wheel is not too bad really. Powercoating is probably the better route as its that bit strong than just normal paint. Would be interesting to see these on the car. Think the extra shine will look good. Always liked the wheels on my old car that had a crystal finish - that bit shinier in the sun

Oh the chance to clean it then put her away. Not for wales but for JapFest it will be cleaning the night before. Got journeys to work and footy to do first

Welcome - there are few 350z round the Southampton. Are you from Southampton or outside i.e. Romsey/CF etc Any mods on the car to spot?

Yup I will back up what Rob said. If your not sure what your looking for go for an Alpine head unit and you will not be dissapointed. Mine is still running from 2002 and has not missed a beat (Although hopefully the 404 will replace it soon) I would also recommend getting some sort of sub as without it you will really notice it. This also raises the issue of how exposed you want the sub to be. Its possible to use the stock location if you want but this can sometimes involve extra work as its not the easiest space to get working properly. Alternatively the normal 2 other positions are under the strut bar or in the boot, both will require a custom build. It sounds like your not going to be doing the work so pop into your local audio installers and see what they say and what they think they are capable.

lol - Oh how so many of us are so wise and wonderful. OK so the kit might not be to many peoples taste but I'm not going to slag him off 1 bit for having it unpainted parts on his car without knowing the story behind it. Maybe hes doing the work himself and doing it bit by it when he can afford it / has time to. If hes doing the work himself, wait to see the finished item and he may deserve a whole more respect than many including on here who will just hand over a wad of cash and thier 2nd car and then get it back all done. Modding a car is not just about the driving round in a modded car its about the physically doing for many.

For the wiring take a look at http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Front_Sp ... re_Routing. Alternatively if you are not running mega power you are probably OK running through the standard loom For the spacers - its a bit of trial an error. I found it was a case of build a ring, attach to door, build another ring for speaker and then have a play around with how they sit together using the old small bits of wood and hot glue. Replacing the rear sub with an aftermarket is an arse - it looks much, simpler than it is 1 attaching a ring to the metal place is not the easiest due to the shape of it and at some parts the only contact you get is a few mm of metal (at the botom and top) also as you mention the factory grill will not fit. I ended up using a piece of wood and cutting it to shape to place the factory one

very nicely done. 'Roughly' how much did that all cost? Is that black or dark grey?

martinopy -> Any chance of a pic of the Nav cubby open?

In your situation your best replacing the lot. If you get an aftermarket amp you will probably blow the BOSE cr*p to bits lol. Not sure even what resistance they are, think they might be 8 or something else. IMO - Get a new 4 channel amp, front comps and a sub - Job done.

Sounds good - One thing, don't rush it to make a specific event, you will regret it, specially if you end up going for something just go you can get it quicker. Spent the time, get it sorted the way you want and then it will be all good.

How easy was your password to guess?

Last year was quite cool - think I only had to put the air con a couple times, few years ago i had weeks where it was on all the time I was in the livingroom

What sort of area do you live in? Is it a dodgy area as its the sort of car that will have a premium attached if its somewhere cars get nicked from a lot

Yup that looks good - the centre console has been sewn i.e. done by a pro/semi-pro. Bits like that are not too hard to do - would be intersted to see what it looked like if you opened up the cubby hole. Thats the make and break of a good trim how it looks when its not just a case of stretch round the edges and put back on. That Alacanata looks good. Would go for it myself but would want black due to having a black car and think it will look a bit strange if you have other panels not trimmed. Wonder how many panels the interior consis of. Luggage Lower Finisher Luggage Side Finisher lower (RH & LH) Luggage Side Finisher upper (RH & LH) Strut Cover rear Strut Cover upper (LH & RH) Strut Cover lower (RH & LH) Strut Cover front i.e. 11 panels for the boot Back door finisher lower Back door finisher side (LH + RH) Back door finisher upper i.e. 4 panels for the boot lid The middle part is a further 6 major parts

This is something I have been looking at recently. Something I always thought would make the interior look just soo much nicer. I was looking to start by doing the boot and then make my way forward through the car. There are a few panels which i can see being a bit tricky like the panel that spans across the glove box / sub cover as there are indentations and the panel above which has the pockets on it. To do it all properly i would be supprised if you could do it without needing to sew some bits. Even the boot I think has some i.e. would be supprised if a single piece cold be stretched across the panel that sits under the sides of the strut bar. As for the material I have heard avoid the fake alicantara etc stuff as it fades - more important in the front rather than boot. The genuine stuff is normally around £60/£70/m I rememeber from when i had my dash etc trimmed in my old car. One of the benifits of the geniune stuff is its meant to stretch much more than the fake stuff. Also make sure you get some really good contract glue

As you say the 203 is a nice head unit but the optional Parrot module does bump the price up a hude amount. if you are not bothered about going for a double din over single (IMO no point unless your going for a screen at the mo) then the 104BTi is a great little head unit and really good value for money considering it has the full iPhone, bluetooth and even front USB if you need it (something I find handy for old 265MB sticks)

I also have 6 dents all on my passenger door. 99% sure they have all happened while parked at work which is bloody annoying when i work at whats mean to be a big professional company where you would expect people to respect each others property. Now I park towards the end of the car park where I know people won't bother parking next to me. Hopefully getting all the dings sorted at Japfest

If the scrape is severe enough to rip the vinly then it would require a panel to be redone - maybe more depending on how much the stuff has faded. That said if it was that big a bump to rip the vinly it would probably have screwed the paint to the level of requiring a respray thus costing around the same i suspect

Links to the parts can be found on viewtopic.php?f=17&t=16403

Ah yes the surround can be tricky. There will probable be 2 tabs on the top and 2 on the bottom, spaced around 1/3 and 2/3 along. Generally if you just pull and wiggle it about a load it will eventually unclip. Mine also does the same - you think it won't come out but then but more force and wiggling and it just pops off

Are you trying to take out the Alpine head unit or the whole surround. To get the alpine head unit out you should be able to get the plastic trim round the edge off (bit fiddly but it will just pop off) and then there are two tabs which need to be moved up to release the Alpine head unit from the cage. If you want to remove the whole center console check out the guides as others have mentioned

That amp will handle 2Ohm but I would strongly recommend against it. You will also loose left to right control and stereo. Just lots of mono speakers.

I would never recommend bridging the front speakers together and running them off a single channel. Unless its a very good amp it will not be designed to run two speakers, specially if wired in parallel (would work in series but then its a waste) 1 channel PER speaker not set of speakers. If you have a 4 channel amp 2 for the front and 2 bridged for the sub or just powering the speakers. The reason I would say don't bother with the rears because if you start amping the front you will not really notice them. The only time they really add something is if you have 5.1. Save the money on amping/upgrading the rears and spend the money on a better front stage / sub If you had a listen to a really well setup 2+1 system you would be amazed what it can sound like and won't even notice there are no front speakers.

I would not recomend amping the rear speakers, leave them on the old BOSE amp or just disconnect them. Not sure which box you are talking about under the center console as there is no amp there. There are two amps as part of the BOSE - one inside the sub box (for the sub) and one in the boot for the front and rear speakers. Ideally you should run new speaker cables to the speakers BUT unless your running big power then you should be fine to use the existing harness

As mentioned in the initial post some people have mentioned this with the ICT setup. To fix it you could either try the line booster or as you say the more drastic solution which is to get a full amp setup.