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Chris`I

Ex Team Member
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Everything posted by Chris`I

  1. What model (engine) was your old one and the new one? 03-05 have more torque than the 06-07 so it may be down to that, but as the others have said, I would expect its the rose tinted glasses really.
  2. You not coming now bud? Yeah, something has developed and I may have to miss out on this years Wales Run... Thats a shame, its shaping up to be another great one
  3. Updated the first page with 2010 dates - come on people get out there and show support for the club
  4. No worries matey, you will love the difference it makes, although then you will want a louder exhuast
  5. Any closed or open cell foam can be used to reduce the noise. I got a cheap kitmat/sleeping mat (for camping) off ebay and spray glued it down. Dont be sold on the specific foams that Dynamat or Second Skin sell, I'm not conviced they do anything special, any reasonably dense foam will absob noise. Just play around and experiment
  6. Its pretty easy, just go gentle and use a trim removal tool (about a fiver off ebay) as some of the clips are quite far from the edge of the trim and the trim flexes quite a scarily amount! In terms of how much, I got a bulk pack of Second Skin which was 40 sq-ft ( http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/second- ... k-kit.html? ). That will be pretty expensive if using Dynamat, so suggest if you want to stick with that you just get in behind the sub (which is dead easy compared to removing all the trim) and see which bits you want to do before you start pulling it all apart
  7. Yup, its like a Zed concert hall in there, now you see where all the noise comes from I originally did the boot, and tbh it didnt make a lot of difference so I ripped apart the rear bit you see there. Doing the wheel wells in there, which you cant see in the pic, makes the biggest difference. Best thing to do is go around tapping and find the flimsy panels and do them first. I added more than is in the pic, but only because I had the matt left over. You could do it with quite a bit less and still get good results. Also make sure you have some kind of foam to put over the top to stop airbourne noise as it can reverberate around a bit in there. I beleive doing the doors can make quite a difference too, but havent got round to that on mine.
  8. You will be amazed at the space behind the sub and govebox, its a cavern in there - its where IMO most of the noise comes from. Start from the seats and remove the trim working backwards. You can do the area behind the sub simply by removing it and the plate it sits on, but on the other side you need to remove all the trim. This is what awaits you in the sub/cubby area
  9. The new batch is yet to arrive… Isnt that what your big mallet is for Mitz? Or is that a secret
  10. If you look carfully at the pics you can make out the manufacturer of them. I did that before and found them on Amazon. They were a load cheaper, they are just generic bars. They didnt ship to the UK then, and I gave up on the idea, but I'm sure you could find a UK supplier of them
  11. TBH, just removing the spare wheel and doing that area without removing the polystyrene inserts, is pretty pointless. The most noise comes from the wheel wells and to do them you need to remove everything in the boot and also dive in behind the seats. Trust me, the effort is well rewarded and really not that much hassle
  12. Chill Col, go to your happy place - sit in the Zed, fire her up and be happy
  13. So boot floor does not require any trim removal? If you want to do all of it yes. You need to remove the plastic around the side, then the polystyrene inserts to do it properly. Also doing the wheel wells inside the rear cubby area (where the sub and glovebox are) reduces road noise greatly
  14. Trim removal tool is a very good idea, Zed clips are easily broken. In mine I removed all the rear trim and covered everything is Second Skin. Dynamat is very good, but unless you are running comps, its not worth the extra over Second Skin tbh. Sound deadening it does make a massive difference to interior noise, well worth the effort. If doing just to boot, I would allow 2-3hrs to do it all properly and not rushing. Allow a full day to do under the seats, rear cubby and boot, thats what I did
  15. Just open both doors before you disconnect the battery and it will be fine. Have had my seats out about 10x while faffing around its all fine I would open both doors, disconnect the battery and then remove seats, install new ones, and reconnect the battery. The extra time between disconnecting the battery and removing the seats should mean there is no power left to the sensors so no airbag light. Its easy to reset if you do make a mistake anyway
  16. Disconnect the battery and pump the brake pedal, should remove the juice. Remember if you have leccy seats already to move it forwards and backwards to remove the bolts before disconnecting the battery. Sounds obvious now, but its funny how often you forget
  17. Looks great bud, just caught up with your progress
  18. To be fair to them (done it 4 times now with Admiral/Elephant), they normally see you have done a new quote and honour it straight up without any prompt. Push for free extras like breakdown if you dont already have them, they can normally bolt them on for free
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