Jack94

Guess it depends on your personal preference really but for most people the oem exhaust is too quiet and doesn't do the lovely V6 justice. There's a few different options really- - Swap the back box out for a set of short tails (resonated or not). - Replace the whole system with a cat-back exhaust, there's loads of different ones about that offer different volumes/tones. - Replace the oem cats with either high flow sports cats or decats I've got a set of Torqen high flow cats and an invidia gemini cat-back exhaust on my 350 which is just right for me, really sings when you open up the throttle but not stupidly loud when cruising around

I'm pretty sure Torqen sell a kit for this so guessing it can be done. Probably best to talk to @Adrian@TORQEN

If you use ebay-special coilovers you can expect them to not fit properly, be terrible quality, give awful ride, not last long etc. Same goes for any type of part really. Also if I ever went to view a car and saw it had cheap nasty aftermarket parts it'd put me right off because it's an indication the seller probably doesn't really care for it and you don't know what else they've skimped on. By all means go for something cheaper than oem (some Nissan parts are ridiculously expensive) but go for a reputable brand like Tein as you've already mentioned.

So much want and I've actually got approval from the missus surprisingly Just wish I had a van and you weren't so far away!

Thanks but that's a bit less than what I'm after.

If you replaced it with something aftermarket such as an adjustable one or one with a polybush then yes replace them in pairs to keep the car even. If you replaced it with oem then there's no harm in leaving the other side so long as it's in good condition. I think a lot of people replace stuff like that in pairs just because you've already got all the tools etc ready and it's likely if one has failed the other isn't far behind.

Rust on the rear arches is one of the main things I'd avoid if you can. Front wings aren't so bad because they're cheap/replaceable but the rear is part of the body so can be very expensive if rust has to be cut out and new plate welded in.

350z facelift steering wheel controls for audio and cruise control. They're in used condition with a few scratches and a bit of lacquer peeling, ideal for wrapping/painting/hydrodipping etc. I think these can be fitted as an upgrade to pre-facelift cars or ones that didn't have the controls from the factory (although I'm not sure if other parts are needed for that too). £50 posted or £45 collected from Banbury.

Brilliant, if that doesn't sell the car I don't know what will Wish my Zed had been "breathed upon by the gods of speed"

My calender arrived this morning, really good quality and looks great Cheers for organising Stu

Just to echo what Coldel and Doogyrev have already said, don't forget tax is at least £315/year plus they're pretty thirsty and have to be run on super unleaded. They're a sports car so they're not particularly cheap run but are well worth it imo. If you really want one I'd advise saving up about 5k which should get you a decent example, then another 1k or so for repairs/maintenance. Even if it's been well looked after it's bound to need some money spending on it at some point given its age.

Glad to hear you got it sorted in the end at no further cost! Like Alex has said though, it's pretty shocking that checking for cracks was the last thing they did seeing as it's one of the quickest/easiest things to do compared to removing the inlet manifold, swapping injectors etc. Hopefully this whole experience has highlighted their incompetence anyway and in the future I'd take the car to a trusted specialist in the first place to save yourself the hassle (and probably some money)

The only reason to use performance fluid is that it's got a higher boiling point, so if you you don't drive hard then regular Dot 4 will be absolutely fine. Also rather than draining the system you're better off keeping the reservoir topped up and pushing the old fluid through (either manually or with a pressure bleeder). That way you won't introduce loads of air into the system that you'll then have to get back out.

In the never-ending quest to bling up my engine bay I'm after some polished metal covers to go over the dipstick handle and fluid reservoirs. Only place I could find is Zeetoyz but sadly they're out of stock, so if anyone has some they'd like to sell or knows where I can find some that'd be great.

This is exactly why I only ever take my Zed to a well known and trusted independent specialist. It's almost criminal how main dealers rip people off, and the worst part is most people think they're getting the best possible service because they're paying a premium for everything. Like Alex has said, get the car out of there to someone you can trust and who actually knows what they're doing rather than playing diagnostic darts. Also, if they outright told you the O2 sensors were the cause then I'd be having firm words with the service manager to cover at least part of the costs seeing as they were clearly wrong.

I don't think they're as quiet as HFCs but that's only from what I've heard. Like you say, probably best to do some research

Yes, that's what the Helmholtz Chambers are for. Taken from the motordyne website- "ART pipes provide the quietest, smoothest, deepest sound of any test pipe while greatly reducing or eliminating rasp and drone."

That might be what you need, but it's worth checking first just to be sure and save wasting money

Ah right okay. Well if you've got (or can find a garage that's got) a DTI and a micrometer it's pretty easy to measure the runout and disc thickness. You can go from there then depending on what you find.

I think in order of volume/drone it goes stock cats, HFCs then test pipes so one option could be to swap the decats for HFCs and see how you get on. Alternatively you could try swapping the exhaust from the Y piece back with one that's known to be tamer (e.g. Miltek). Lastly you could try getting someone to weld an extra silencer or two into the setup you've got now.

Could be a warped disc/built up pad deposit. How long have you had your current discs/pads fitted? And when did you first notice the issue?

Only trouble with stock cats is they're very restrictive, so going back from decats I think you'd notice a loss in power. Gotta be worth trying a set of HFCs first!

Around £300 for a full set of Brembo discs and pads sounds about right. They're perfectly fine for daily road driving but struggle if you give them any real abuse (e.g. track days). Entirely up to you really whether you're happy with their performance or want to spend the extra to upgrade to something like Stoptech, DBA, hawk etc.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382699342617