colesl4w

The Cobra Non-Res is definitely known for a good bit of drone. I would recommend sticking with it for a few months to see if it improves, though. My Ark Grip droned lots when I first got it, but after a few months of it coking up with dirt it certainly deadened that quite a bit. Not just my subjective opinion either - people who had been in the car when I first got the exhaust, and then months later, though I'd changed something.

Is it as all possible someone could have given the arch a boot to do that damage? As others have said, weird the alloy isn't damaged at all. Though I suppose if someone was going to boot it they'd go for the door.

Have you looked into theraband flexbars? I never belief in guff like that, but genuinely after a few sessions of using one (I got the green one), my recurring golfers elbow disappeared - permanently. Also works for tennis elbow apparently.

Ahh if it came with the car, just get rid and get an Ark Grip!!!!! . You will love it, no doubts about it.

As others have said, would you not be tempted to swap for an exhaust which is designed to be loud / louder? Once you start cutting the backbox, you'll probably not be able to sell it if you're unhappy! I had the Milltek and found it way too quiet. Sold it to a member here who has decats, and he says that brought the volume up nicely. But I see you already have decats and still don't like the sound. What about rather than cutting off the backbox, you put stock cats back on and see if that reduces the rasp but keeps the volume without the resonator?

Absolutely stunning sound to it!! Love the pops on the throttle blips. Is there any drone?

Oops, I forgot to update y'all! Well, it now spits fire for fun. If anyone wants a loud miltek but doesnt mind a bit of drone then it's a great DIY mod. Some free advice: 1. There's LOADS of cladding on the inside of the baffle, be prepared to make a mess 2. The inside of the baffle is well and truly attached to the inner wall of the pipe at the point where the tips widen out. I grabbed pliers and just bent the mesh until I could tug at it. It's not neat if you shine a light down there and see the edge of the pipe is sharp and crumply but I refer you to "it spits fire" if anyone looks that close. 3. The disk that sits at the end of the baffle is a PAIN to get out, you'll need some force to bend it on itself before pulling it out. 4. Keeping the now-exposed inside of the pipe shiny is a lot of work, it fouls up really quick. Wow, removing the bits in just the tips made such a big difference? I'm really surprised and impressed at the ability to sound deaden that much at the very end of the pipe!

Massive thanks to Ewen for answering all of my questions and for very fast delivery every time. I will definitely be back for more things in the future!

Good call on the sertraline. I was on fluoxatine and didn't find it to be much good. Sertraline has been a good help though. Do remember it'll take about 2 months to kick in though. Best of luck.

Hi Adrian, Thanks very much for this - I've sent you a PM.

Hi Adrian, Is there any way around the £16 delivery charge to N. Ireland for just the hardware kit?

Very interested to konw what the effect was! Keep us posted!! quite on the fence tbh.yes its a lot louder but more raspy . sounds more like my previous high reving 4 cylinder than a V6 now ...iv kept the resonator just incase Could you take a video of it? You'd be doing others a favour as you're not the first who has bought a milltek and found it too quiet (I did!) And I'm sure you won't be the last. I was tempted to cut out the resonator myself but chickened out and swapped it for an Ark Grip and couldn't be happier. Alternatively you could put the resonator back in and get it decatted which I understand sounds fantastic.

Very interested to konw what the effect was! Keep us posted!!

Thanks Rich

Bumpy bump

Just confirming that you can indeed remove it and pass MOT. That's what I have done.

Hi all, I have a brand new OEM W brace ready to go on the car. My old one fell into 3 parts and is long gone. I have been googling about to see if there is anything else I need to bring to my mechanic so he can fit it. I have found this W brace hardware kit: http://www.torqen.uk/nissan/350z/suspension/braces/5596-350z-nissan-oem-w-brace-hardware-kit-74870-cd200-hwk.html Can I get away with just having these? Or are there additional brackets required also? I have heard mention of some brackets on either side rusting and needing replaced (for the same cost as the W brace, from memory!) though I can't find that forum post anymore. Any help would be much appreciated as always.

Hi all, Well.. wonky bolts, but sure. I know this question has been asked in many shapes and forms over the years, but I struggled to find a definitive answer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. My rear camber & toe bolts, and my front toe bolts, are seized. I'm currently lowered 17mm on Tein s-techs. One mechanic has said I will need just new bolts, another has said I will need new arms too. They didn't do the work there and then as they were worried about snapping the bolts and my car being stuck there with no spares. I have circled in red the parts the mechanic has said are seized and need to be freed up or replaced. Rear camber and toe: Front toe: My questions: - Are these bits even labelled right lol? Going off literally what the guy pointed at. - I see there is a highly recommended Eibach rear camber kit for about £180. Will this kit alone replace all of my camber and toe-related seized parts in the rear, or is there a chance I need extra things? - I see you can get just camber/toe bolts for the rearwhich apparently give greater correction - these cost £55 - would they suit my needs instead of the arm kit? - Where can I get new toe bolts for the front? I haven't managed to find those. Is there a chance I would need more than just bolts for the front toe? - If I got all these things, would this allow me to get a complete alignment without worrying about seizing? I don't mind spending a little extra to just get this all sorted in one go rather than faffing about going to/from a mechanic with different parts. It's such a hassle leaving the car in and getting lifts to/from work just for him to come back and go "ah you need X also". Thank you so much for your help as always guys. Apologies for these questions! I have bought wrong parts in the past and really don't want to repeat that again!

Could you measure the angle from the front contact point of your tyre to the front underside of your bumper? This would tell you the max angle of incline your car could clear. Just tape a bit of string to the front of the bumper, run it to your tyre, then use a protractor to measure the angle.

Ark grip for sure. Mine gets compliments every other day

Oh really? Learn something new every day. Any idea why? I originally heard it was so that a child in the passenger seat couldn't mess around with the button and get an arm/neck crushed in the window. Now I'm reading other sources that say the reason the driver side has it is so that the driver can return their hands to the wheel ASAP, rather than holding the button down, whereas the slightly cheaper (manual) option is used for every other window. Not sure which to believe now!

Well, I know what I'm trying when I get to the car later!! Never mind all that, what about auto UP on the passenger window. It has auto down, how difficult would it have been to do up at the same damn time! I think they disable auto up on passenger windows in the EU for safety reasons!

A very tough question to answer. As others have said, a balance between the two is the best. I'm in a fairly unique role at the minute. It's very stressful but relatively well paid. I always wonder what it would be like to have a complete change in career direction for something more rewarding/fun but lower paid. The fear of throwing away what I have worked towards and regretting it stops me though!

I drive mine every day, regardless of weather. I can't think of any safety-related reason why I wouldn't? The only reason I could think of is if it was because I planned to keep the car literally forever and wanted it never to get in contact with salt for bodywork reasons.

Ahh thanks for the info!