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I couldn't believe the difference new banana arms made! Made the car handle like brand new.

Agreed with Alex. I replaced my fluid and line as my pedal would become loose/biting point would get really low on a hot day while sitting in traffic. Not a single problem after getting those changed.

Hi Steve, I did indeed, and thanks for your input on it when I was still debating which to get! Absolutely love it.

I've put about 800 miles on it now and it sounds absolutely perfect. There was almost a sudden change in tone recently after a few long drives. Its now FAR quieter inside when cruising (a good thing), just a nice low deep tone, but still beautifully loud when giving it some. I love the sound of this exhaust more and more every mile that's put on it! Also had an American guy with the Grip say that he adjusted his tips out after my recommendation and said the drone he had is now massively reduced even though his exhaust was well broken in!

Another vote for Tarmac Sportz here, top guy and always goes the extra mile.

Do you have yours extended out much? By drone I mean a really loud monotone sound which basically sounds like your entire boot is a massive speaker. If you haven't tried, I would really recommend extending them right out to see if there is any difference at all. EDIT: Ah, saw your updated post. I can see why you prefer the flush look. Personally for me I can put up with them being extended out in order to get rid of the drone!

Hi all, Just an update on this! I absolutely love this exhaust! If you're getting one fitted, or have one and suffer from drone, read below! I've put about 400 miles on the exhaust since I got it. From it being fitted, it sounded absolutely amazing at WOT, but tended to drone a LOT between 18000-2500 rpm. Due to my driving style this was going to take a bit of getting used to particularly while doing slow town driving! I was really surprised because this exhaust was supposed to be designed to have very little drone, and barely anyone else complained about drone. After doing a bit of reading online, I saw a post on a corvette forum saying that drone can be caused by the tips of an exhaust not being far enough away from the rear bumper. Right enough, when mine was fitted, the exhaust tips were barely extended at all, maybe 2cm past the bumper at most. Here's a picture of how it was when first installed: http://i.imgur.com/3P6KPHD.jpg So just this afternoon after work, I decided to adjust the tips by pulling them out a couple of inches. It's just one 10mm bolt on each tip that needs to be loosened. The tips might feel like they wont budge, but just give them a proper yank with one hand on the front and back and they'll shift. Here's where they're sitting now: http://i.imgur.com/las3cHI.jpg Not sure if it looks a bit goofy out that far or not, and I can look at pushing them back in a bit to the point of where drone starts again. The difference is MASSIVE. There's only a slight hint of drone now between 1800-2000 rpm, but I'd say the drone has gone down by like 90%. It's not even remotely annoying now. As the exhaust cokes up even more with usage, I think this will decrease even more. I can't believe a 10 second fix has had such a massive impact! Went for an hour long drive despite being starving just to enjoy the exhaust properly! Hopefully that helps someone

Also had to remove this when fitting the Ark Grip!

Love it Chris, thanks for sorting me out with a great price. Anyone considering one should certainly speak to Tarmac Sportz first. I can upload some more clips if it would be of use to anyone considering buying one.

Hi all, Here's a video of me running my new Ark Grip with stock cats! Certainly louder than the Milltek hahah. This clip isn't accurate as the camera was clipping out with the volume. EDIT: Here is a much better video, showing what it really sounds like from the driver seat:

Just to back up what has been said here. My clutch has done this before just when sitting in start stop traffic on a hot day. Completely fixed by getting decent clutch fluid and a braided clutch hose.

I also ordered these exact ones thanks to your help! Great job.

Found this on a Nissan forum: "I got this from an Infiniti/Nissan tech. Yes the "spring unwind" type noise is a normal noise. Once the self test is done it is normal to hear no further noises related to the system. Usually you'll only hear the noise on the first cold trip of the day, but this isn't always the case. And yes the noise varies from a thump to a "spring unwind"." Found the following on an NSX forum, may also apply to Zs: "It's supposed to make that noise _occasionally_. Whenever the stored pressure gets low, it has to run the pump for a little bit. Unless it's doing it all the time, or throws a warning light, I wouldn't worry about it."

Mine does that initial ABS grind type sound when I first set off. It always has. No lights or anything though!

Thanks for the input as always, everyone.

Chris - Greg has just confirmed that this is a "fibre re-inforced plastic bumper". Where would that compare on the quality scale with an actual plastic bumper? Thanks for your input.

I would - but it's more the fact that they specifically advertised this as not fiberglass, and yet that's what they've given me... twice. From what I'm being told here, plastic bumpers are extremely rare. In that case should I believe that anyone who has bought a Nismo conversion from Tradelink has potentially been lied to?

I have been threatening that to them for about half a year now. I genuinely was just hoping for the good in these people, and that they would correct the mistake they admitted to. I don't understand what they're trying to achieve by stringing me along like this. They've now spent loads of cash prepping, painting and posting me what is once again the wrong bumper. What on earth would they be thinking by doing that?

Yes, It's Tradelink. How did you know?

Thanks for the reply. I knew it was not an original Nismo, but a replica. However, when the trader advertised the bumper to me they said (this is a direct paste from the e-mail): "This is the kit that will be fitted. (V1 Full Nismo kit.) Rear spoiler, rear bumper spats, sideskirts and front bumper. The front bumper we use, unlike most on the market, incorporates the all important front headlamp washers. It is also an excellent tried and tested fitment." and "The kit is a replica but is made from plastic and not fibreglass. (A genuine used Nismo kit would cost you around £2500.00, for the kit alone, without painting and fitting, thats if you could get hold of one, which is doubtful)!! The kit does meet EU regulations though and is the best on the market."

Update: Just updating this post to include the dealer name: Tradelink Cars, incase anyone else is considering buying from them. Google 'tradelink cars review' to see loads of examples of horrendous reviews about them. It took 110 emails and 11 months to get a replacement bumper, when they had admitted they advertised the wrong sort, and it would not pass MOT. Hi all, To cut an extremely long story short, I bought a 350z off Tradelink Cars on this forum. The dealer has a checkered past, but I ignored that, thinking it was just a case of people being too fussy. I bought the car in May 2015, and immediately noticed the replica Nismo V1 body kit I asked them to fit, was not the one they advertised to me. It had no headlight washers (an MOT fail in Northern Ireland), and was made of fiberglass rather than plastic as promised. After 10 months, countless e-mails being ignored, loads of legal threats, and what must be nearly a hundred e-mails back and forward, they have finally sent me a replacement bumper. Can someone smarter than me please confirm that this is fibreglass, and not plastic as promised? http://i.imgur.com/UIAeHdO.jpg http://i.imgur.com/g3jVO9T.jpg http://i.imgur.com/U28rx0o.jpg

That's what I thought! If my car was nicked I probably couldn't afford to replace it, despite being 100% covered. Scary! Though I suppose this is the same issue everyone has. A fixed value policy is something I'll read into!

My fear though is that many of the Zs for sale nowadays have many of the common parts failing, and those who aren't truly in love with them will put them up for sale. Maybe I've just been very unlucky with my Z but I can go through the checklist of common faults and mine has had the majority. I guess if I was to buy another I'd be better educated about what to look for though. How on earth do people drive show cars about the place, when they'll get bugger all of the real value should it be hit!

Thanks for the response Lewis! Ah I hadn't realised they actually take into account your estimated value! I always assumed coming to a claim they just look at the 'book price' for a car with the same year and miles. My estimated value is quite high already so hopefully that would cover me if the worst did happen.

Hi all, This may be a bit of a strange question but as I seem to be pouring money into my Z to fix all the typical things that go wrong with them, its something that has come to mind. Basically I have put probably about £2k into fixing things on my Z which are typical issues - banana arms, exhaust, clutch line, boot struts, and many more. Say I was to write off my car, or it was stolen tomorrow. Should an insurance company take into account the fact that I am fixing up all these standard issues when giving a value for the car? Or would they just give the lowest book value for a car of the same year and miles? It would seem unfair that I would only be given the value of a bog standard, potentially neglected car, as opposed to something that has been well maintained and had the common issues fixed. Any opinions would be interesting!