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GreenLandy

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Everything posted by GreenLandy

  1. Easy job, assuming they're not rusted onto the studs like mine were. And if 6T isn't enough, just pop to a garage, they usually press them in and out for a fiver.
  2. Last time I had new tyres (MPSS), one was fitted inside out and all 4 wheels were damaged. Not particularly impressed, but I did get a complete refurb on all 4 wheels out of it
  3. Bearing puller? Heat solves all problems (with the aid of a decent hammer), but you have to be careful of anything in the area as it'll nuke any seals etc if they get hot. Not sure exactly what's nearby
  4. It won't add horses no, just slightly improves the smoothness of the throttle response.
  5. Quite frankly I see no problem with a LUK/Exedy OEM set up. About £300 from eurocarparts' sister site carparts4less Sticky clutch is likely to be a dodgy slave cylinder as well.
  6. Some idea of location/route might help
  7. Just say it's intermittant, hopefully they'll change it. It's probably just worn brushes and the change in temp might have brought them back into contact with the commutator.
  8. My old DE had HKS filter (standard panel, nothing fancy as they're worse), plenum spacer, decats, stillen y pipe and scorpion back box and a revup got it to just under 300bhp
  9. As everyone has said - slave cylinder is most likely suspect. Cheap enough to buy and easy to fit on a DE - cylinder is outside the gearbox and is just 2 bolts and the hose to disconnect.
  10. I went from a DE to an HR and am pleased I did, find the engine smoother, more powerful (obviously..), looks better and lots of little touches/improvements throughout. I'd do the same again given the chance, unless I was particularly after something else
  11. Hi and welcome. Quite a few of us in the area now. I wouldn't rule out post-06 cars though, the tax is only a couple of hundred quid more a year and the cars are generally much better/nicer. And either way, that's only 2-3 tanks of fuel anyway. With choice I'd buy a car from the forum with a known history. You know it has been looked after then.
  12. completely unused, still in the box and wrapper as you can see. All bolts/fittings included. £170 delivered. Collection from Basingstoke possible
  13. I've got rolled tips and looking for slash cut...
  14. Jack the corner up and see if it is the wheel bearing first - do the 12&6 o'clock then 3&9 o'clock test(s). If there's play then the bearing is suspect number 1
  15. UJs on the propshaft ok? You'll have to get under it and test them by hand, see if there's any play
  16. I would defo save the money - number of owners doesn't really matter to me, I buy on condition and service history.
  17. Hardly surprising that a new battery wouldn't fix anything if a decent jump didn't help. Going to have to get busy with a multimeter under there and/or strip the starter down I would think
  18. If it won't even jump start then I'd say the main suspects are definitely a) earth(s) and b ) something to do with the starter motor/starter motor solenoid. The click you hear is likely to be the solenoid activating, but the power isn't transferring properly to the motor, or the motor itself has an issue. You could always use a jump start cable as a temporary earth to the starter/engine to help rule that out.
  19. 2003 350Z DE LUJII Mini OBD2 ELM327 V1.5 https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00UR5BRZU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Worked with NExts 7 tablet (2012) and Samsung Galaxy S6 Edge not tried it on the HR yet.
  20. Mad Friday at Le Mans sorted my new MPSS out
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