cs2000

Id agree, I prefer the nicer interior on the 06+ models but couldn't justify a small increase in power, a drop in torque and some shiney shiney for the increase in tax.

Heres the photos as promised of the full hack which includes iphone charging Under-side of the Bluetooth trap door part showing the connection between the green cable (3.5mm jack soldered into the head unit as per the original ipod hack) and the black one that's wired to my jack in the trap door. What you see when you open up the cubby. Then with my right angled connector and my 3.5mm jack on a retracting reel. and finally, with my two iPhone chargers

Heres photos of the iPod (iPhone) part of my hack to show what I meant above. Full details Il put in Louisa's thread (link above) as it related more to that. 3.5mm jack in the cubby hole Wired into an extension so I can just un-plug and replace wires if necessary Here it is with a 90 degree adaptor and a retracting reel to keep the cable tidy

Ahh I got carried away thinking Louisa actuall meant having a USB socket available to put a USB stuck with music into! The link you have would work fine, easiest to combine it with the last part of my post above to get it working quickly and save having to find an earth and a 5V live.

I cant see how a USB would even work, unless im being stupid which is a possibility, or of course if were talking about an aftermarket head unit then yes its definatly possible. To be able to do this (on the stock HU) something needs to be able read the file format of the USB stick (NTFS or FAT32) and then have the ability to play an MP3 which, if you're using hardware to do this needs to be licensed. I mean sure, using something such as a Raspberry pi to the heavy lifting is possible (but far from simple) but it would require much more effort than the results would yield in terms of improvements over the standard 3.5mm hack. Still, if you do manage to figure out a easy way then im sure there would be a great deal if interest for it. As for my method detailed above, you could do the same thing with a USB as there are USB extensions and jacks available for purchase, it means soldering an extra wire per connector but that would only mean 4 more in total at most. To enable charging for my iPhone 5 (and to cater for my GF who has an older iphone with the 30 pin connector) i have wired in a cig lighter extension to the front port and hidden the cables inside the central plastics, then bought a Griffin dual port charger and wired the cables to the back cubby. Its very tidy this way and means i can swap out every cable involved in this hack besides one wiothin about 2 mins at absolute most and without having to re-solder anything.

Il post my comments on this in the other thred you made to keep the different methods separate http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/69593-ipod-bose-hack-usb-socket-rather-than-35mm-jack/

Nope, as above you only get enter code if the unit is from another car. Louisa, what I have done (also knowing those 3.5mm jack leads ALWAYS break) is... - Do the hack as per the guide. - Then buy a headphone extension lead such as this. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649 - Then buy a Jack socket alone such as this. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649 - Drill a hole in the centre cubby and fitted the jack socket into this hole and soldered the extension lead to this. - The extension cable created above plugs into the lead that I added from the Head unit as per the standard guide. - I then have ANOTHER 3.5mm cable that connects between the jack socket in the cubby and my phone. (i also have a right angled adaptor as i thought it looked neater but that's personal preference). Its probably a bit over the top really but those 3.5mm leads always break at some point or another with constant handling and I wanted to avoid having to re-do the hack. Il get some photos later as i think its a really good way to do it!

Added myself, appologies for the loss of colour but in Internet Explorer 10 it seems the font colour setting doesn’t do anything so…. LONDON User Name: Wizard Location: South London OBDII Reader: Blazt cable+software (Consult 2), which can read and reset fault codes + test individual cylinders, increase RPM, etc... User Name:drivebyabuser location: Harrow NW london OBDII reader:scantool software User Name: Sparky350z Location: Cheam, Surrey OBDII Software: cant remember (but it works) Username: Jez Location: Newbury, Berkshire Software: Blatz (OBDII and Nissan), Cipher (the Uprev diag software for engine ECU and ABS ECU), and Osiris (for remapping) Name: Chris Location: Jctn 24/25 M25 ODBII Software: Need to check but reader gives and clears codes SOUTH EAST User name; Abbey Motorsport Location: Oxted RH89HJ OBDII reader: NISSAN CONSULT 2 , full code reading including codes just for Nissan,s Name: Trick-Ricky Location: East Sussex OBDII Reader:Blazt cable+software, which can read and reset fault codes + test individual cylinders etc. works with all JDM haven't tried UK model yet. Name: kaizermotor Location: Rochester Kent OBDII Reader: Consult-3 EAST ANGLIA User Name: Rtbiscuit Location: Ipswich OBDII Software: Digimoto 5, Scantool, RPM TORQUE User Name: Pathfinder123 Location: Woburn OBDII Software: Scantool (old version) Username: Sam McGoo Location: Downham Market, West Norfolk OBDII Software: PCMScan, Torque. Tested on UK Car. User Name: Cs2000 Location: Ipswich OBDII Software: ProScan Scantool (can read codes, test sensors and reset EML lights on jap and UK cars) SOUTH WEST Username: Keyser Location: Bournemouth Dorset (technically South East but close enough for South West) OBDII Software: PCMScan, (loads of other software) Tested on UK car. Username: Buster Location: Bournemouth Dorset OBDII Software: PCMScan,Tested on UK car. Name: daveparkin Location: Poole/Bournemouth, Dorset OBDII Software: Gendan EngineCheck with ELM Interface, Tested on UK car CHANNEL ISLANDS WEST MIDLANDS User Name: Wasso Location: Birmingham OBDII Software: ScanMaster ELM EAST MIDLANDS User Name: Narcotix Location: Leicester OBDII Software: Digimoto 5 Username: Lincolnbaggie Location: Between Lincoln and S****horpe OBDII Software: Scangauge II (apparently won't work on JDM models) WALES Username: Notfub Location: Neath OBDII Software: Scangauge 2 (apparently won't work on JDM models) NORTH EAST Username: Lincolnbaggie Location: Between Lincoln and S****horpe OBDII Software: Scangauge II (apparently won't work on JDM models) NORTH WEST User Name: TomS Location: Manchester OBDII Software:U480(?) Not sure but it works! User Name: LeonK Location: Macclesfield OBDII Software:VS8701 OBD11 YORKSHIRE Username: atkin666 (Atkin Motor Engineers Location: Malton (between York and Scarborough) OBDII Software: Nissan consult 2 and 3 (full fault code and diagnostic reading) Username: Lincolnbaggie Location: Between Lincoln and S****horpe OBDII Software: Scangauge II (apparently won't work on JDM models) HIGHLANDS & CENTRAL SCOTLAND User Name: Zmanalex Location: Scotland OBDII Software: Innovate Motorsports LM -11 User Name: craig79 Location: Dundee OBDII Software: Clarke (Machinemart) NORTHERN IRELAND EIRE

yeah I spoke to Richard this morning as I noticed a few errors on his site, he mentioned he fixed the code this morning too

yay im not alone haha. Hope its fixed soon. I do have firefox installed too, I've always used it as my default "back-up browser" but I just prefer to always use IE.

Sounds like it...

Yup I noticed that too.I like the "Need for bead" sticker on their instagram! lol http://instagram.com/p/Xc5oT2EBcl/

Maybe this is just me but its the same on my PC at work running IE10. In any box on the site where you can type a post (so both in the quick reply thing and in the full editor) pressing the enter key wont give me a new line, it just does nothing at all. If I select compatibility mode this then works but then the layout of the whole page becomes screwed up so that's not an alternative either. Its my fault really as Microsoft have now added IE10 as an "Important" I just accepted it and then realised what it was lol. I'm guessing many people use either Chrome or Firefox which I'm guessing don't suffer this issue but its annoying for IE10 people, trust me. And per the issue above, I apologise for not paragraphing this post...I cant...

yeah I liked that pizza too, although the one from pizza hut where you have the hot dogs in little cups (like the cheesy bites one) is better

Weird, well if power has been cut to the radio then id try the reset trick on page 1, but im guessing you've already done that. Ermmmmmm someone else mentioned that if you stick a pen in there is something you can flick that also makes it think there's as tape inserted.

id like to eventually maybe give this a go too. The issue as you have already highlighted is the mileage question. Surely the mileage readings and such will be encrypted ortherwise its no more secure than the old systems used where a drill would suffice, every man and his dog has en eBay account and a laptop nowadays...

I love the looks of inside of some engines, not brave enough to do it myself though! Hope this new part sorts out your issues, another Zed saved !

You can of course take the power needed from the rear of the obd port. I'd just be very careful doing that!

Has the website creator considered looking at https://www.paypal.com/uk/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_subscr-intro-outside as it will let him set-up paypal buttons that send him recurring payments every month. He could for example create us a £10 button, we all click and pay once and then every month Paypal sends him another £10 and he sends us a new box. If you want to cancel you just kill the payment from your paypal page and he doesn't send out the box. Simples really, I've used them loads before on my websites.

I did the same thing immediately after doing the hack. Took 3 attempts to get the timing right. Stupid button

Shaun, did you remove the metal spring and the slider mechanism? If not then the button wont do anything as the system knows you haven't inserted a tape. Either unscrew it all again removing those two parts, or get an old tape, take the actual tape out of it (so its empty) and then just insert this to fool the system. Mines still working a few days later so cant complain, despite my ****-up!

People always seem to forget this with TC, if you change the rolling radius of the tyres the TC can easily get confused as it things wheels are rotating differently to what they are! may mate has done a similar thing in his Audi, got lower profile tyres on his fronts and his TC randomly comes on for no reason as it thinks the wheels are spinning faster than the rears.

Ive never used the yellowstuff pads before, but on the Celica I always used RedStuff, went through 3 sets of those but I used to change them every year for some reason. The bed in procedure described is exactly what I used every time, is a little disconcerting when they start to smell and//or smoke but just keep with it, and as it says, don't sit with your foot holding the brake pedal down as you will boil the fluids!

Id agree with Ekona, get some Bridgestone RE050 (anywhere from £170 to 250) or some Michilan Pilot Super Sports and worry about the cost later.

Yes they do that. It also happened in my previous two cars. It must have something to do with the lower resistance in LEDs compared to regular bulbs. Absolutely nothin to worry about and it won't drain your battery. I left my celiac at the airport once for 10 days and it fired up fine. Current draw is negligible