cs2000

I think the seats are just GT style leather ones 9asside from the orange stitching and the breather holes) as the shape is exactly the same including the extra middle support on the drivers seat. The Louis Vuitton parts are the "snakeskin feel" parts listed below that. im guessing anyway. 2x drivers and passengers side arm/elbow rests complete rear strut cover Steering wheel LV Edition badge on the back if you can remove it

Fair enough. In the photo I posted I was more questioning why you would run the tyre 2-3mm from the top of the wheel arch. If the suspension moved EVEN SLIGHTLY you would just rip the tyre to pieces or damage your arches....surely??

I just don't get what the point of this is unless your suspension has been replaced with solid iron girders to stop the wheels moving(and that this would fall foul of UK MOT laws as the wheels and tyres are past the arch) . Image below stolen from the US site

I always wondered this too, assumed mine was broken, now I know !

EDIT, ive fixed the image links now.

Are these the same things ZMANALEX sells? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR9.TRC1&_nkw=nissan+350z+compression+arm&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Needs lowering definatly, hellaflush! lol.

I agree, at least two torque wrenches, one for higher torques, such as wheel nuts and one for lower ones such as spark plugs. thing I have a 6 inch long one (oh-er missus) that does something like 20-50 Nm and then a larger one, 20 inches or so from 40- 300 Nm ish, very useful tools. Other than that, a decent socket set. I've been through so may £10 - £30 sets you wouldn't believe, they always fail when working on cars eventually, usually sheared adaptors or damaged ratchet mechanisms, I recommend Halfords advance for these

For small parts I usually use eBay. I always use the 3M di-noc wrap for carbon as I prefer its appearance but hexxis for everything else

I must say that is a particularly bad 24 hrs! hope you catch the mouse (or it ran away)

Yep, the adapters are between 60-80 usually on here. Keep an eye out

This annoys me SO much. Why can't people just hold a set speed!!!

Yeah I would be comfortable with it asking as its no higher than the door sills. Also I always just keep my revs high to keep water out the exhaust but go slowish so as to not splash water up into the filter

As above. I follow the handbook rule. Use Cc when the traffic flow means you don't have to keep making adjustments to the speed. If you are having to then disengage it and use your foot.

Thanks Chris that would be amazing. As RT says editing mode does work (I didn't realise that) but you loose the functionality such as bold and stuff unless you manually type the tags

Yeah, decided il probably go with the standard GTR's, didn't realise the D's had a lip like that which on the roads round here will be octagonal shaped in no time. CS has advised me that with the D's an offset of 25 for the front and 12 for the rears should be OK so I guess the same applies for the standard ones. Saving time now!

Wow lots of replies! lol I don't plan on lowering the car at all, too many speed bumps and the car is plenty low enough seeing as I park in a steep multi-storey 5 days a week and already scrape the front bumper CS, il give you a PM but this was a speculative post for purchases sometime in/after summer Id prefer if possible to avoid using spacers and just have it as close to the arch edges as possible without the aforementioned spacers. *goes and does some reading on offsets* Im looking at getting them in the silver with polished lip as in....

Hey all, since the Nismo LMGT4's cost a gazillion pounds I (as many other people have) am looking at the Rota GTR-D's as a replacement. Cheapest place I've found is Driftworks http://www.driftworks.com/rota-gtr-d-18-wheels-all-colours.html but am confused with all the numbers. I want to stay with 18's as I don't want to change the rolling radius of the wheels and affect the speedo. I'm guessing to stay as close as possible to the OEM alloys id want to go for 9.5" fronts and 10" rears with an offset of 35. They do of course do 12 inch wheels too and an offset of 10 is available across all sizes. Just wondered/hoped that someone could take a look at the site and quickly let me know which set-up would be as close as possible to the OEM wheels. I don't mind going slightly wider if it wont affect anything but obviously don't want the tyres/wheels and thinner than OEM. Obviously I also don't want to have to modify the arches or use any arch extensions to keep the wheels legal Cheers guys

If anyone picks up on this, maybe take a look at the last post here, or the middle post which is a link to the IPboard support forums with a fix.http://community.invisionpower.com/resources/bugs.html/_/ip-board/enter-key-does-not-work-when-posting-in-ie10-r38650

Id agree, I prefer the nicer interior on the 06+ models but couldn't justify a small increase in power, a drop in torque and some shiney shiney for the increase in tax.

Heres the photos as promised of the full hack which includes iphone charging Under-side of the Bluetooth trap door part showing the connection between the green cable (3.5mm jack soldered into the head unit as per the original ipod hack) and the black one that's wired to my jack in the trap door. What you see when you open up the cubby. Then with my right angled connector and my 3.5mm jack on a retracting reel. and finally, with my two iPhone chargers

Heres photos of the iPod (iPhone) part of my hack to show what I meant above. Full details Il put in Louisa's thread (link above) as it related more to that. 3.5mm jack in the cubby hole Wired into an extension so I can just un-plug and replace wires if necessary Here it is with a 90 degree adaptor and a retracting reel to keep the cable tidy

Ahh I got carried away thinking Louisa actuall meant having a USB socket available to put a USB stuck with music into! The link you have would work fine, easiest to combine it with the last part of my post above to get it working quickly and save having to find an earth and a 5V live.

I cant see how a USB would even work, unless im being stupid which is a possibility, or of course if were talking about an aftermarket head unit then yes its definatly possible. To be able to do this (on the stock HU) something needs to be able read the file format of the USB stick (NTFS or FAT32) and then have the ability to play an MP3 which, if you're using hardware to do this needs to be licensed. I mean sure, using something such as a Raspberry pi to the heavy lifting is possible (but far from simple) but it would require much more effort than the results would yield in terms of improvements over the standard 3.5mm hack. Still, if you do manage to figure out a easy way then im sure there would be a great deal if interest for it. As for my method detailed above, you could do the same thing with a USB as there are USB extensions and jacks available for purchase, it means soldering an extra wire per connector but that would only mean 4 more in total at most. To enable charging for my iPhone 5 (and to cater for my GF who has an older iphone with the 30 pin connector) i have wired in a cig lighter extension to the front port and hidden the cables inside the central plastics, then bought a Griffin dual port charger and wired the cables to the back cubby. Its very tidy this way and means i can swap out every cable involved in this hack besides one wiothin about 2 mins at absolute most and without having to re-solder anything.

Il post my comments on this in the other thred you made to keep the different methods separate http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/69593-ipod-bose-hack-usb-socket-rather-than-35mm-jack/