cs2000

As above. I follow the handbook rule. Use Cc when the traffic flow means you don't have to keep making adjustments to the speed. If you are having to then disengage it and use your foot.

Thanks Chris that would be amazing. As RT says editing mode does work (I didn't realise that) but you loose the functionality such as bold and stuff unless you manually type the tags

Yeah, decided il probably go with the standard GTR's, didn't realise the D's had a lip like that which on the roads round here will be octagonal shaped in no time. CS has advised me that with the D's an offset of 25 for the front and 12 for the rears should be OK so I guess the same applies for the standard ones. Saving time now!

Wow lots of replies! lol I don't plan on lowering the car at all, too many speed bumps and the car is plenty low enough seeing as I park in a steep multi-storey 5 days a week and already scrape the front bumper CS, il give you a PM but this was a speculative post for purchases sometime in/after summer Id prefer if possible to avoid using spacers and just have it as close to the arch edges as possible without the aforementioned spacers. *goes and does some reading on offsets* Im looking at getting them in the silver with polished lip as in....

Hey all, since the Nismo LMGT4's cost a gazillion pounds I (as many other people have) am looking at the Rota GTR-D's as a replacement. Cheapest place I've found is Driftworks http://www.driftworks.com/rota-gtr-d-18-wheels-all-colours.html but am confused with all the numbers. I want to stay with 18's as I don't want to change the rolling radius of the wheels and affect the speedo. I'm guessing to stay as close as possible to the OEM alloys id want to go for 9.5" fronts and 10" rears with an offset of 35. They do of course do 12 inch wheels too and an offset of 10 is available across all sizes. Just wondered/hoped that someone could take a look at the site and quickly let me know which set-up would be as close as possible to the OEM wheels. I don't mind going slightly wider if it wont affect anything but obviously don't want the tyres/wheels and thinner than OEM. Obviously I also don't want to have to modify the arches or use any arch extensions to keep the wheels legal Cheers guys

If anyone picks up on this, maybe take a look at the last post here, or the middle post which is a link to the IPboard support forums with a fix.http://community.invisionpower.com/resources/bugs.html/_/ip-board/enter-key-does-not-work-when-posting-in-ie10-r38650

Id agree, I prefer the nicer interior on the 06+ models but couldn't justify a small increase in power, a drop in torque and some shiney shiney for the increase in tax.

Heres the photos as promised of the full hack which includes iphone charging Under-side of the Bluetooth trap door part showing the connection between the green cable (3.5mm jack soldered into the head unit as per the original ipod hack) and the black one that's wired to my jack in the trap door. What you see when you open up the cubby. Then with my right angled connector and my 3.5mm jack on a retracting reel. and finally, with my two iPhone chargers

Heres photos of the iPod (iPhone) part of my hack to show what I meant above. Full details Il put in Louisa's thread (link above) as it related more to that. 3.5mm jack in the cubby hole Wired into an extension so I can just un-plug and replace wires if necessary Here it is with a 90 degree adaptor and a retracting reel to keep the cable tidy

Ahh I got carried away thinking Louisa actuall meant having a USB socket available to put a USB stuck with music into! The link you have would work fine, easiest to combine it with the last part of my post above to get it working quickly and save having to find an earth and a 5V live.

I cant see how a USB would even work, unless im being stupid which is a possibility, or of course if were talking about an aftermarket head unit then yes its definatly possible. To be able to do this (on the stock HU) something needs to be able read the file format of the USB stick (NTFS or FAT32) and then have the ability to play an MP3 which, if you're using hardware to do this needs to be licensed. I mean sure, using something such as a Raspberry pi to the heavy lifting is possible (but far from simple) but it would require much more effort than the results would yield in terms of improvements over the standard 3.5mm hack. Still, if you do manage to figure out a easy way then im sure there would be a great deal if interest for it. As for my method detailed above, you could do the same thing with a USB as there are USB extensions and jacks available for purchase, it means soldering an extra wire per connector but that would only mean 4 more in total at most. To enable charging for my iPhone 5 (and to cater for my GF who has an older iphone with the 30 pin connector) i have wired in a cig lighter extension to the front port and hidden the cables inside the central plastics, then bought a Griffin dual port charger and wired the cables to the back cubby. Its very tidy this way and means i can swap out every cable involved in this hack besides one wiothin about 2 mins at absolute most and without having to re-solder anything.

Il post my comments on this in the other thred you made to keep the different methods separate http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/69593-ipod-bose-hack-usb-socket-rather-than-35mm-jack/

Nope, as above you only get enter code if the unit is from another car. Louisa, what I have done (also knowing those 3.5mm jack leads ALWAYS break) is... - Do the hack as per the guide. - Then buy a headphone extension lead such as this. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649 - Then buy a Jack socket alone such as this. http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1497.l2649 - Drill a hole in the centre cubby and fitted the jack socket into this hole and soldered the extension lead to this. - The extension cable created above plugs into the lead that I added from the Head unit as per the standard guide. - I then have ANOTHER 3.5mm cable that connects between the jack socket in the cubby and my phone. (i also have a right angled adaptor as i thought it looked neater but that's personal preference). Its probably a bit over the top really but those 3.5mm leads always break at some point or another with constant handling and I wanted to avoid having to re-do the hack. Il get some photos later as i think its a really good way to do it!

Added myself, appologies for the loss of colour but in Internet Explorer 10 it seems the font colour setting doesn’t do anything so…. LONDON User Name: Wizard Location: South London OBDII Reader: Blazt cable+software (Consult 2), which can read and reset fault codes + test individual cylinders, increase RPM, etc... User Name:drivebyabuser location: Harrow NW london OBDII reader:scantool software User Name: Sparky350z Location: Cheam, Surrey OBDII Software: cant remember (but it works) Username: Jez Location: Newbury, Berkshire Software: Blatz (OBDII and Nissan), Cipher (the Uprev diag software for engine ECU and ABS ECU), and Osiris (for remapping) Name: Chris Location: Jctn 24/25 M25 ODBII Software: Need to check but reader gives and clears codes SOUTH EAST User name; Abbey Motorsport Location: Oxted RH89HJ OBDII reader: NISSAN CONSULT 2 , full code reading including codes just for Nissan,s Name: Trick-Ricky Location: East Sussex OBDII Reader:Blazt cable+software, which can read and reset fault codes + test individual cylinders etc. works with all JDM haven't tried UK model yet. Name: kaizermotor Location: Rochester Kent OBDII Reader: Consult-3 EAST ANGLIA User Name: Rtbiscuit Location: Ipswich OBDII Software: Digimoto 5, Scantool, RPM TORQUE User Name: Pathfinder123 Location: Woburn OBDII Software: Scantool (old version) Username: Sam McGoo Location: Downham Market, West Norfolk OBDII Software: PCMScan, Torque. Tested on UK Car. User Name: Cs2000 Location: Ipswich OBDII Software: ProScan Scantool (can read codes, test sensors and reset EML lights on jap and UK cars) SOUTH WEST Username: Keyser Location: Bournemouth Dorset (technically South East but close enough for South West) OBDII Software: PCMScan, (loads of other software) Tested on UK car. Username: Buster Location: Bournemouth Dorset OBDII Software: PCMScan,Tested on UK car. Name: daveparkin Location: Poole/Bournemouth, Dorset OBDII Software: Gendan EngineCheck with ELM Interface, Tested on UK car CHANNEL ISLANDS WEST MIDLANDS User Name: Wasso Location: Birmingham OBDII Software: ScanMaster ELM EAST MIDLANDS User Name: Narcotix Location: Leicester OBDII Software: Digimoto 5 Username: Lincolnbaggie Location: Between Lincoln and S****horpe OBDII Software: Scangauge II (apparently won't work on JDM models) WALES Username: Notfub Location: Neath OBDII Software: Scangauge 2 (apparently won't work on JDM models) NORTH EAST Username: Lincolnbaggie Location: Between Lincoln and S****horpe OBDII Software: Scangauge II (apparently won't work on JDM models) NORTH WEST User Name: TomS Location: Manchester OBDII Software:U480(?) Not sure but it works! User Name: LeonK Location: Macclesfield OBDII Software:VS8701 OBD11 YORKSHIRE Username: atkin666 (Atkin Motor Engineers Location: Malton (between York and Scarborough) OBDII Software: Nissan consult 2 and 3 (full fault code and diagnostic reading) Username: Lincolnbaggie Location: Between Lincoln and S****horpe OBDII Software: Scangauge II (apparently won't work on JDM models) HIGHLANDS & CENTRAL SCOTLAND User Name: Zmanalex Location: Scotland OBDII Software: Innovate Motorsports LM -11 User Name: craig79 Location: Dundee OBDII Software: Clarke (Machinemart) NORTHERN IRELAND EIRE

yeah I spoke to Richard this morning as I noticed a few errors on his site, he mentioned he fixed the code this morning too

yay im not alone haha. Hope its fixed soon. I do have firefox installed too, I've always used it as my default "back-up browser" but I just prefer to always use IE.

Sounds like it...

Yup I noticed that too.I like the "Need for bead" sticker on their instagram! lol http://instagram.com/p/Xc5oT2EBcl/

Maybe this is just me but its the same on my PC at work running IE10. In any box on the site where you can type a post (so both in the quick reply thing and in the full editor) pressing the enter key wont give me a new line, it just does nothing at all. If I select compatibility mode this then works but then the layout of the whole page becomes screwed up so that's not an alternative either. Its my fault really as Microsoft have now added IE10 as an "Important" I just accepted it and then realised what it was lol. I'm guessing many people use either Chrome or Firefox which I'm guessing don't suffer this issue but its annoying for IE10 people, trust me. And per the issue above, I apologise for not paragraphing this post...I cant...

yeah I liked that pizza too, although the one from pizza hut where you have the hot dogs in little cups (like the cheesy bites one) is better

Weird, well if power has been cut to the radio then id try the reset trick on page 1, but im guessing you've already done that. Ermmmmmm someone else mentioned that if you stick a pen in there is something you can flick that also makes it think there's as tape inserted.

id like to eventually maybe give this a go too. The issue as you have already highlighted is the mileage question. Surely the mileage readings and such will be encrypted ortherwise its no more secure than the old systems used where a drill would suffice, every man and his dog has en eBay account and a laptop nowadays...

I love the looks of inside of some engines, not brave enough to do it myself though! Hope this new part sorts out your issues, another Zed saved !

You can of course take the power needed from the rear of the obd port. I'd just be very careful doing that!

Has the website creator considered looking at https://www.paypal.com/uk/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_subscr-intro-outside as it will let him set-up paypal buttons that send him recurring payments every month. He could for example create us a £10 button, we all click and pay once and then every month Paypal sends him another £10 and he sends us a new box. If you want to cancel you just kill the payment from your paypal page and he doesn't send out the box. Simples really, I've used them loads before on my websites.