Sam Mcgoo

I'm at work so can't watch the videos but get the idea of the situation being discussed. (the first one) If there is a clear lane available, I always use it. I go at a sensible speed, prepared to stop as there is always likely to be some numpty pulling out without looking in their mirrors first. Why would you sit in a long queue if you don't have to? I'm not an aggressive driver so won't just push in at the end. I try to 'merge' in where there is a nice gap nearer the front as there is usually someone leaving 2 or 3 car lengths in front of them at some point in the queue. And I always put my hand up to thank the car behind, whether they get a choice or not. I find the main place for poor lane discipline and where I take the opportunity to make progress if I want to press on (dual carriageway/motorway middle lane hoggers aside) is at roundabouts. Why do people that are going straight on at the roundabout sit in a queue in the left lane? 95% of the time you can just sail up the middle or outside lane (again at a sensible speed) and enter the roundabout without any issues, taking the inside lane round the island and taking the desired exit safely. Obviously there are some roundabouts where you can't do this, but these are signposted and/or lane painted on approach.

Also the OEM Nissan filter is highly regarded and recommended by most. I usually use the OEM filter, but have currently got the k&n fitted as I ordered it with the oil for ease. No way of telling what is better, but the k&n has a handy hex nut on, when it comes to removal if you've over tightened it.

Both exactly the same. It used to be called silkolene but changed the Fuchs Titan. I've used it for years and would recommend it. Go for the second link, as you get a litre free at the moment.

Strange you say that, as I've been buying tools and equipment from there for quite a few years and it's all been very well behaved, good quality and very good value for money. Nearly all of it comes with a 3 year warranty anyway so for what you pay knowing you get 3 good years out of it minimum is good value. Also I remember a couple of years ago on here there was a forum member that was a lidl manager and he said he had to return one of the pressure washers back to manufacture under warranty. He had to send it to........ Yep...... KARCHER. If I'm unlucky and it fails just after the 3 year warranty, I'll buy another one. I can do that 3 times before it costs me the same amount as the equivalent karcher or such like. And I'm not sure you'd get 9 years even out of one of the more expensive brands. Anyway, I've had a good couple of years hard use washing cars, patios, decking etc.. Out of mine so far and I'm very happy with it. As I said, just a heads up to those that don't have money to burn.

If anyone is interested and requires a decent pressure washer for a modest sum, Lidl have their Parkside pressure washer for sale from the 23rd April. It's basically a a re-branded K4/K5 for about the third of the price. 150bar, 450lph, metal internals, all the accessories etc.. 3 year warranty £89 http://www.lidl.co.uk/en/our-offers-2491.htm?action=showDetail&id=22721&ar=3

If you have any t-cut laying around that does the trick.

Welcome to the club.

Don't be too down. I paid over £500 to have mine done! It was on 3 piece split rims and wasn't just a single colour though. Bloody good job and would highly recommend the Wheel Genie in Huntingdon.

Can you not just use OEM gaskets? If your running a stock manifold/headers and a Ypipe/or true dual dual that's the same diameter than I can't see any reason why not to. Or buy some gasket material from a motor factor and cut your own.

I probably would have been up for this had I not been working. Have a great day. I know you will, It's a cracking circuit for the Zed.

Welcome to the forum .....and the more exclusive Vortech club Where are you located?

Very cool! Good see the good old days before H&S....working under a car standing on a couple of bricks and a bottle jack.

Welcome to the club. "I am used to modifying my cars but I don't plan on doing much with the Z" Good luck with that!

Sounds cool! I need a tunnel near me. Wheel HP to fly will be about 15%. Hub HP to fly is about 10% ish I believe. At Abbey Mark normally says 30-40hp. I assume a stock 350 circa 300bhp ~ hub +30 FI circa 400bhp ~ hub +40

Literally can't believe adults can watch this for more than 5 seconds. No offence meant, just really don't understand. Sh^t and obviously staged fights, over the top in every way and the worst actors on the planet.

Have a search. Someone on here recently done exactly this in their 370 and did a good job with materials and I think lights.

I've been using that setup for a few years now and not had any issues. I've always just re-used the shims and put copper grease on both sides of shims as well as top and bottom sliding edge of pads. Although I do need to change my shims as they are bit worse for wear.

You must have been the only one not to see it! You should have come and said hello. That fiesta was rapid! Looked a fun drive.

Welcome to the club Adrian. Car looks well and hope you get to the bottom of your CELs and enjoy ownership of a great car.

That's interesting, that they've said it's been built wrong. I've seen a few posts on the net about this, but normally people drill another hole in the lower bracket to allow it to go lower.

The item you link is handy to own anyway for that money. I bought a more expensive one though made of metal and it's crap. I had to re-read all the joints at it just leaked everywhere. Regarding the gearbox - I did mine on axle stands. To get the oil in I used a length of hose pipe about 6 foot. Put that in the fill hole then then put a funnel in the other end and hold it up at about level with the wing mirror or higher and pour the oil in from there. You can tie the other end to something like a step ladder or chair at a suitable level to make it easier.

Well this got interesting didn't it I only put the video up for a bit of a laugh. I consider myself a pretty good driver (don't we all though), better than average anyway, and have had 20 years of fast RWD cars and no incidents in those 20 years other than one crash when I was 17. But am no means an expert, trained or experienced track driver. I have probably only done a dozen airfield/track-days in that time. We all think we're much better drivers than we actually are and I was just showing how easy, unexpectedly and quick it can happen. It did take me by surprise but I know how it happened. I put the power on too early, on a painted surface and once it went I over-corrected it causing the spin. What is interesting is everyone's differing opinions on what you should do in these situations. It would be nice if there was a right or wrong answer but I suspect it's much more complicated than that. The offer of instruction from Dan is very nice and I might well take you up on it when I next go to Snetterton if you are free. I think any driver training can only be a good thing. Bedford was indeed a good track and would be good for starters with the large run-offs. But the GT circuit has a lot of corners to remember and the different layouts being just coned off can get a bit confusing to start with. I think I prefer Snetterton 300. It's still 3 miles long but its very clear where your going and has ample run off areas. Its not as fast as Bedford and had a couple of tighter 2nd gear turns but still a good mix of fast,slow,long and short corners with two long straights. Most of the companies that do days there, MSV and Javelin have the cones out to tell you where to turn in and where the apex is. They also have instructors on site you can have come round with you for a small fee.

Welcome to the forum. Is your CEL on constantly or flashing? If its flashing it's more serious and your right in not driving it. If it's constant, don't panic. O2 sensor faults are pretty common place, especially on zeds with high flowing exhaust set ups. There could be a few reasons for this. Has your car been remapped after these mods were carried out? An UPREV map from abbey, hdev or rs tuning? The reason I ask is an intake, a Plenum, manifolds, hfc and exhaust will be quite free flowing and could possibly be making it run a bit lean and causing the CEL when the fuel trims can't compensate. Also, if it hasn't been remapped you will be feeling no benefits from any of the mods as the stock ecu detunes it back to standard. It could be as simple as a loose connection on the sensor. The Abs one, would need to be looked into, it's not that common but again, likely to be a loose connection or sensor. If it was me, I would reset the codes and go for a drive. Find a nice safe place to test the abs and make sure it still works. See if the codes come back on and let us know if they do. In the mean time, order yourself a cheap OBD2 reader from eBay for £20 or get a obd2 Bluetooth dongle and download a phone app such as torque on Android. This will let you read and reset the codes quicker and easier and also actually monitor what the o2 sensors are doing. And try and enjoy the car.

Seems that's the corner to watch out for then! Funny I should know as looking back I even commented on the thread http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/59815-crashed-my-z-badly-advice-please/ http://www.350z-uk.com/index.php?showtopic=59803

Yeah, all was good. Just a bit of grass here and there. Wish mine had stopped. its actually the best bit of camera work I've got ! Yeah I realise I over corrected I just really wasn't expecting it to be honest. I'm actually quite glad I got it wrong as I ended up on the outside of the corner, where as quite a few end up on the inside (see previous skid marks) and thats not good as there is a gravel trap and a wall. see here - Cheers though, always happy to get advise from experienced drivers. I've heard a lot of good things about them and may well give it a go one day. I am by no means an expert driver or even an amateur drifter and in reality probably a bit worse that I think I am, but have driven rear wheel drive cars for the last 20 years and controlled a fair few slides over the years, just not at that speed, and as I said above I just really wasn't expecting it. Could well have been looking back at the vid as that is when I put my foot down, but to be honest I went through there faster than that later in the day, but just done it in 4th and was more progressive on the throttle. Nooooo, should of just man moded it and kept the power going when the back end stepped out. As stated though, it's easy to say, harder to do! I wish I was a 'Drift King' massive respect to you/them for holding a slide at those sort of speeds!