Sam Mcgoo

Pm NeilP. I don't think as as simple/cost effective as you think.

Welcome to the club. Most had been said already above. If you haven't already looked in buyers guide on here have a look for the common faults. Regarding the service history, if there aren't any receipts, get the service book and call the garages that are stamped to confirm the work carried out. If the service book says cambelt changed as the advert does, then I'd be a bit more concerned and look into the history in a bit more detail. Use the cheap tyres as a bargaining point or get them changed. The leather can be easily repaired /dyed using a Gliptone kit.

Actually, now your car needs a re-build and halfords won't pay for it, I'll give you a grand for it and take the risk that I might be able to fix it.

Such sympathy. As said don't panic it will come out, just persist with it. Seriously though, you actually expected Halfords to sort this out for you .

Spongy pedal no brakes = boiled fluid Hard pedal no brakes = fade ie glazed pads. If you have no history of the fluid being changed, start there. Brake fluid absorbs water over time and that moisture has a low boiling point. Flush with Motul RBF600 or 660 or equivalent will go a long way. Braided lines will firm up the pedal some more and again help a lot. I can't comment on the black Diamond parts as I've not used them but they are at the cheaper end so wouldn't expect too much from them. DBA T3 discs and ferrodo DS2500 pads would be my recommendation as I've used them on road and track and have no problems stopping my 400+ bhp zed. Do you have brembo calipers?

A bit 'in your face' on a stock zed but with a body kit and the rear lowering it'll probably be ok. Regarding the lowering, do your research and think about your suspension set up carefully. A lowered zed on 20"wheels with tiny profiled 'cheap' tyres will ride shockingly over lumps and bumps and will become very skittish. So plan accordingly.

Someone on here has them fitted, so can be done ok. Can't remember who but remember seeing the post a few months back.

Just for your information, turning off the esp using the button on the dash doesn't actually turn off the esp... Lol Infact it only turns off the traction control. So it will allow your rear wheels to spin without cutting power. However the esp will still apply brakes to individual wheels if it deems it necessary. There is no driver option to turn the esp off. It can be done by pulling fuses, or disconnecting the yaw sensor. It has been discussed a few times so have a search if you want anymore info.

What you experienced was your stability control kicking in. If you go too hot into a corner and the car gets a bit unstable it will apply the brakes to individual wheels to try and stabilise it and keep you on the road. I've only ever felt it happen once on the track and to be honest it probably did prevent me from understeering off the track. However, it it a very strange and unnerving feeling having the brakes applied without your input. If your sure you weren't going too fast in the corner then you probably have an issue. I would suspect incorrect tyre sizes, pressures, and mixed grip levels upsetting things. Or dirty/faulty sensors.

As said above. Also that's a very long sentence!

Mine is a Bluetooth one that I bought about 5 years ago from eBay for.circa £20 came with an obd2 program for the laptop, the dingles, software etc... It works fine on my UK GT, I only ever use Torque on my phone though. I'll have a look back and see what one I bought.

Have you pm'd the guys I mentioned in your other thread? I'd be surprised if they couldn't help.

Welcome to the club.

Welcome. Flashes and waves are about 50/50 with zed owners. There's a lot of ignorant owners out there.

Welcome to the club. It is indeed a great place!

Where are located? Maybe a member locally could take you for a spin. Might even have a surcharged zed nearby.

Your Long term fuel trims do look a bit too distant from one bank to the next. How is it driving? any flat spots or hesitation? If you can't find any air/vacuum leaks, have you tried pressurising the whole inlet to about 10psi and leak testing? I would first try swapping the O2 sensors over from bank 1 to 2 i.e left to right, resetting the codes/ trims and see how it goes. If the fault moves to bank 2, then its the sensor. If it comes back on 1 then you know there is another issue. I would then pull the spark plugs for a look. With the trims as they are you may see signs of a rich or lean cylinder. This will help where to look next, could be a faulty injector etc.. Have a look through here, where I fault found a faulty injector for some ideas http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/78240-running-lumpy-no-eml-all-sorted/page__hl__lean#entry1177406

Not sure you'll like the price of a new one! PM or R35LEE for a used one.

If you go on my350z.com there is a vortech thread in the FI section. Everything you need to know is in there, well worth a read.

If you can work on cars and use spanners, you can fit a vortech to a zed. There are plenty of threads on here where people have fitted their own with pics and descriptions. The basic kit is pretty much bolt on.

Sounds like there maybe a problem with the EPDM module located behind the battery under the scuttle panel. Normally things would just stop working, so I suspect you could have water in there shorting things out. That would be my first port of call as it controls all the items you describe. There is a test you can do that runs through all the functions which can be found in the workshop manual, Google and I think I did a post about it here a few years back so worth a search. I would have a look for signs of moisture in there first, as if thing are shorting out and you keep functioning them you could do further damage.

As above, forced induction is really the only cost effective option for any real gains. On a stock engine, with supporting mods you can safely run 400-450bhp. To be honest the money you would spend getting an N/A 350z to anything close to 350bhp, you could just buy the bolt on vortech supercharger kit without the need for supporting mods and run it at 350bhp on stock fuel system, Injectors etc... Then when money allows add the supporting mods and start chasing the the numbers.

I really like that! Perfect for a female petrol head.

I've had multiple remote controlled multicoloured sets from eBay. I have had them installed in my AV racking/shelves coming on for 2 years now and they are on every day. I have had no issues with them. I have installed another set about 6 months ago outside underneath my decking surrounding my pond. They have been on a lot less time maybe 20 hours total so far but seem to have coped with the winter months Ok.

Very Is that Kings Lynn? Would love to pop and see you guys at it! Maybe even tempted to have a go one day.