Sam Mcgoo

Fingers crossed for you. You seem handy with spanners if your changing plugs and coil packs, why not buy your self a compression tester for £20 and do it yourself? Could have done it by now with all the plug swapping you've been doing. Are you pulling the fault codes using a reader? It could be used for more info, fueling etc Another consideration could be an injector. If that plug is a lot whiter than the other 5 it could have been running lean due to a faulty/blocked injector. I have had a faulty injector on mine before, making it lumpy, and the first indication that it may have been an injector was a lean looking plug. Although you have the burning oil problem so might be a long shot............but if the injector had been faulty for a while causing that cylinder to run lean and causing det, that could lead to piston/ring damage and burning oil......so you never know. Have a read though here for an idea on how I found mine - http://www.350z-uk.c...+running +lumpy (Note: my misfire EML code wouldn't show as I believe it may have been turned off during the Uprev.)

Flashing means it has gone into limp mode - so more serious than just on permanent. Also means you shouldn't drive it now as you could potentially cause more damage. Still could just be sensors/VVT etc though. But further investigation needed.

Where are you located? Just for inspiration see my thread here: http://www.350z-uk.c...age__hl__refurb I have a 'similar' style of wheel and am so glad I took my time deciding what to go with. I'm well happy with the results.

Yep I'm pretty sure your right. If I remember right, he said it burned a fair bit of oil so decided to trade it rather than sell it. As suggested, I would carry out a compression/leakdown test and take it from there.

Have you checked your alternator is outputting correctly ? 8 miles a day isn't a lot but wouldn't expect the battery to keep going flat

Absolute class! Really like that.

I believe Av8er was a previous owner of your car.

Welcome to the club. Hope you enjoy the car and the community!

Hoppy new yer!

Nope, it's sensor 2 that is post cat. :wink: Sensor 1 Bank 1= Driver side Sensor 1 Bank 2 = passenger side

Welcome to the club.

They are a very good tyre. Almost as good as MPSS, but the F1's wear quite a bit faster than the MPSS.

Welcome to the club.

Well.........I may have. Although, I may have picked the wrong one. It may have took me so long to decide whether I should enter the best picture, or the one with the most car in it, since its a car club calender. Time will tell.

Seems a very good price.

Sounds very interesting.

Couple of highs and lows for me - A little hiccup of blowing a weld on my plenum and faulty injector! I was pretty gutted about not getting on track at Snetterton due to fog.... Winning 'Best Wheels' at the Easter Ace Cafe meet, after just spending the best part of £600 getting them re-furbished! But biggest highlight for me was finally taking the Zed up to Scotland for a little road trip on some of the superb roads up there.

Sounds like I should just buy his parts, bolt them together and have myself a 240 for much cheapness!

No. If you read the sequence of EML light flashing before you reset it it will tell you the code. Taken from here in the guides section of this very forum - http://www.350z-uk.c...e-valve-resets/ ECU Resetting Procedures Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second?s needle will be useful. Operations Procedures 1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ?ON? and wait 3 seconds. 2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds. 2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD). 2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal. 3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. This blinking is the EML code - so count them. You get a series of fast flashes followed by a space then more fast flashes etc... So 1flash, then 1flash then 4 flash then 7 flash would be EML code P1147. - Look that up un the fault code list in the guides section or just google it. The next bit resets the light/ecu 4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking) 5. Wait about 10 second. 6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds. 7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink). 8. Turn ignition switch to ?OFF? position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone. If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU. Obviously, a code reader is easier, but you can go outside right now and do this to get the code...and its free.

As above. You can also search 'peddle dance' or 'ecu reset' in the guides section and you can do it manually at home, take some practice but it's free. :wink: Before you reset it read the codes using the flashing lights.

Wow, looking good! Love stuff like this, really makes a car stand out

Have a good one Chris, any birthday plans?

Ah right, yeah on the HR it should be do-able. I thought you meant the stillen twin screw SC for the De.