Kerry Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Could someone please give me some recommendations on what would be a good brake disk choice for me. I'm after a disk that is ideally grooved and either cross drilled or dotted just for the looks, the car is only used on the road so they don't need to be super high proformance, not looking for a disk that is extreamly expensive either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Lynx Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I've just recently been through the same situation. In the end I went for OEM discs as they're better/safer for road use. Unless you're screaming up to every corner and standing on the brakes at every opportunity there's not really any point in drilled/vented discs. Personally I'd rather have better stopping power when I really need it than discs that look good as I'm sailing off the road in to a ditch 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cmck13 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 These are registered on here, http://www.mtecbrakes.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Personally I'd rather have better stopping power when I really need it than discs that look good as I'm sailing off the road in to a ditch Why would he sail off the road and into a ditch because he has cross drilled and grooved discs? If you dont want to spend the earth op, i would go with some ebc discs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steel Lynx Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 If you dont want to spend the earth op, i would go with some ebc discs +1. I have "EBC Turbo Grooved" discs on the front brakes of my Zed and they work fine for me so I'm sure they'll be good enough for stopping you. Link: http://www.h-dev.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=78_169_293_463_465_1414&products_id=20370 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hairyman68 Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I have the mtec drilled and grooved disks.... Stops on a dime in all weather.... The holes clear rain and heat build up so disks and pads in perfect contact and temperature.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 Cheers guys thats really helpful. And i can confirm i am indeed a "he" lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMballistic Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Cheers guys thats really helpful. And i can confirm i am indeed a "he" lol We don't believe you, ....pictures or GTFO. Only joking & good luck with your decision about what discs to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stutopia Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 DBA T2 FTW! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
san marino blue Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Mtec dot and grooved rotors They work well, clear the crap and water away The only issue is they do wear the pads a bit quicker and I do mean a little bit. Also your wheels get very dusty quite quickly, but they work, so it's a small price to pay Brembo standard pads Don't buy race pads they don't get hot enough on the road,They're Brembos, most other makes would kill for these as standard Braided hoses Replace the bleed nipples with stainless as they corrode DOT 5.1 fluid, drain the system first Decent tyres, Goodyear Eagle F1s, as there's no point in stopping the wheels, but not the car You'll not go far wrong with that little lot. Personally I don't live on my brakes, set her up well, down through the box, good lines, power down as you apex and leave, slow in fast out, gets em every time. I live on fast curly Welsh B roads, so I drive these daily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne370Z Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 I love the look of drilled discs on any car. Look way better than grooved or dimpled. So purely from a cosmetic point of view - Drilled ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durk Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Mtec dot and grooved rotors They work well, clear the crap and water away The only issue is they do wear the pads a bit quicker and I do mean a little bit. Also your wheels get very dusty quite quickly, but they work, so it's a small price to pay This. I've got them on mine and would recommend them for general driving in the zed along with Brembo pads... They look the muts nuts and do a more than adequate job at stopping, all without breaking the bank! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too Not forgetting that grooved help clean the pads and offer better bite and can offer more friction than solid discs, if we are talking physics of course The reason most road car discs are solid is for quieter operation, absolutely nothing to do with stopping power or distance Edited July 8, 2015 by Jetpilot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coldel Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too I presume the holes and grooves reduce heat, so making the brakes more effective - very hot pads with flat discs are not very useful. I went with grooved in the end I think, not sure how 'robust' metal is with holes punched through it? I got some Black Diamond discs and pads from Cougar Store and did the job just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brillomaster Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too Not forgetting that grooved help clean the pads and offer better bite and can offer more friction than solid discs, if we are talking physics of course The reason most road car discs are solid is for quieter operation, absolutely nothing to do with stopping power or distance I thought the reason was the same as most things, solid discs are cheaper to make and provide acceptable stopping power. I'm now not that keen on drilled discs and have seen discs crack around the holes when they get hot. ideally any holes need to have been cast in the disc in the first place, rather than drilled out afterwards. Edited July 8, 2015 by brillomaster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durk Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too Not forgetting that grooved help clean the pads and offer better bite and can offer more friction than solid discs, if we are talking physics of course The reason most road car discs are solid is for quieter operation, absolutely nothing to do with stopping power or distance I thought the reason was the same as most things, solid discs are cheaper to make and provide acceptable stopping power. I'm now not that keen on drilled discs and have seen discs crack around the holes when they get hot. ideally any holes need to have been cast in the disc in the first place, rather than drilled out afterwards. That's part of what sold the MTEC dimpled and grooved discs to me, they have the good looks of a drilled disc but they are less prone to cracking (I'd imagine so anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jetpilot Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too Not forgetting that grooved help clean the pads and offer better bite and can offer more friction than solid discs, if we are talking physics of course The reason most road car discs are solid is for quieter operation, absolutely nothing to do with stopping power or distance I thought the reason was the same as most things, solid discs are cheaper to make and provide acceptable stopping power. I'm now not that keen on drilled discs and have seen discs crack around the holes when they get hot. ideally any holes need to have been cast in the disc in the first place, rather than drilled out afterwards. Its not unknown, usually quality discs will not suffer with this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brillomaster Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 are mtec quality discs? just saying, they're awfully cheap compared to other drilled and grooved alternatives... Although I doubt you'd find the weaknesses under normal road driving, I've only seen cheap drilled discs crack under the high temps generated by track cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 It was an exaggeration...... I was just trying to point out that having more surface area for the pads to bite on is better than having lots of holes and grooves in the discs Also, I have a sneaking suspicion that the op might not in fact be a 'he'.... It's all personal preference I guess, although there's the whole physics side of things too Not forgetting that grooved help clean the pads and offer better bite and can offer more friction than solid discs, if we are talking physics of course The reason most road car discs are solid is for quieter operation, absolutely nothing to do with stopping power or distance I thought the reason was the same as most things, solid discs are cheaper to make and provide acceptable stopping power. I'm now not that keen on drilled discs and have seen discs crack around the holes when they get hot. ideally any holes need to have been cast in the disc in the first place, rather than drilled out afterwards. Its not unknown, usually quality discs will not suffer with this I've seen it on mercedes carbon ceramic discs. grooved and drilled are a millionty times better though, that's agreed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durk Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) are mtec quality discs? just saying, they're awfully cheap compared to other drilled and grooved alternatives... Although I doubt you'd find the weaknesses under normal road driving, I've only seen cheap drilled discs crack under the high temps generated by track cars. Depends what you mean by 'quality'... I wouldn't have them, or standard Brembo pads for that matter, on a car that I was going to track. Equally, I don't see the point in paying for track spec items when i'm not going on track. MTEC discs are perfectly acceptable for a road car and the price is fair for what they are. They are of good enough quality for road with the added bonus of being dimpled and grooved so they look good too... but for track i'd spend more and get some better discs + pads and probably not bother about how they look! For somebody with the requirements of OP, I'm more than happy to recommend MTEC discs + Brembo pads Edited July 8, 2015 by Durk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TT350 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 There's a Stoptech package on ebay which includes front and rear discs and pads. 450 ish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spa1 Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Brillo-I am just about to renew my mtech dimpled and grooved for a new set.I think 34000 miles of hard driving (on track) as well as road , NO cracking no nothing but excellent braking.I have motul rbf fluid with Mintex pads which I think are perfect for the Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carbon.Ninja Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) Just offering my own 2p on this topic. Again I'm not a brake engineer or expert but this is my understanding. Below, is based on a snap shot of what the brakes are doing and not a dynamic modelling of brakes or chassis dynamic... A few simple equations is all it takes :- 1) Force = Pressure x Area 2) Torque = Force x distance 3) Friction force = Force x Mu (Friction co-efficient) 4) Pressure drop in break hose is neglectible 5) 1kg =10N ( Sorry I am working this by top of my head to keep the maths simple, for engineers out there he's its 9.81N) (Notice friction force does not taken into account of area!) Assumptions:- A) brake lines are completely rigid (although in real world it isn't but for simple cal it is ok) Pedal ratio held constant. C) Brake master cylinder not changed in all cases D) Example based on made up figure for illustration purpose only, not actual example of any car in reference. E) assisted braking is out of equation. For simple illustration purpose. Now assumptions are out of the road we can start... Break it down to smaller chunks. From up stream pedal to master cylinder to brake calliper piston, brake size.. Then later consider tyre and weight transfer. Pedal ratio Brake pedals work is a leverage. There is a pivot point which pedal rotate and where is apply forces to the master cylinder. Assume a ratio of 7:1. Assume you can apply 50kg to the pedal, the output force will be 7 time ( 350kg or 3500N) to brake master cylinder. There are you can see the pedal ratio have an effect on the force being applied to the master cylinder. Brake master cylinder size Assume cylinder size is 10mm^2, force of 3500N being applied. That means pressure of 350N/mm^2 in the break line. The higher the pedal ratio, as you can see can increase the pressure in the break line. Alternatively, decrease the master cylinder area can have the same effect. Brake calliper cylinders Now many people take about 4 pot 6 pot 8 pot..etc It is not necessary more piston the better. What is the key importance is the total piston area. That means the sum of all the effective piston area adds up. Recall earlier the equation Force = pressure x Area The force here is the clamping force. Earlier mentioned there is 350N/mm^2 (pressure) in brake line. That means if the calliper you changed has a larger effective total area your clamp force increases! But this is not the end of the story yet.... Therefore not how many piston you have, it is the area that matters! Brake pad Now assume your pad has friction co-efficent (refer to as My hereafter) of 0.4 . That means the fiction force being applied is clamp force x 0.4. That's why Mu is important, higher the Mu the mode friction force being applied to disc. Brake calliper distance to hub center Ok now you have the brake clamping force. What about the size...actually in this case size does matter. Brake torque = Friction Force x distance. In case you have center line of pistons are 300mm from hub center. That means the clamping force x 0.3. As you can see why brake size matters the bigger the disc the more of bream torque can be be applied!. Before you go and stuck on huge over size brakes, it is a trade off! Bigger brake usually means more in mass. In this case unsprung mass ( hurt your handling). Secondly, using aluminium bell would help but since the mass on the outside is the worst (moment of inertia) therefore base on this I think you should use the smallest you can get away with where possible. Higher the moment of inertia means more resistance to rotate. Well try holder a hammer close to the impact head and try hold it as far away as possible, and try to wiggle it about and for sure the further you holder it down the handle the harder to control. Same principle. Tyres 1) Refer to the friction force calculation, but applied to tyres. In this case it is the vertical load on tyre. Tyre grips better when there is a higher vertical load as ...Grip(friction force) = Vertical load x Mu. 2) Above is true to certain point, typical tyre grip will increase with vertical load but only to certain point and it will drops off. Therefore keep at the optimum point.(unfortunately tyre data are closely guarded secret for the tyre manufacturer) 3) Mu is always much higher when it is not locked up. As Mu is dropped very significantly when wheel is locked up. 4) Regardless of how good your brakes are, if you tyre can't grip you are not slowing any quicker! Therefore both goes hand in hand! Weight transfer Now since mentioned about tyre grip and vertical load. It is worth mentioning dynamically weight shifts as your accelerate, brake and turning. That's means your vertical load on each axle will varies during dynamic condition. Therefore it is key to exploits this limit of available grip which is directly linked to the weight transfer. For weight transfer, this is another topic, one thing we need is to know the center of gravity for sure. Track and wheel base will be needed to work out the weight transfer.... But I let some chassis dynamic expert to explain this much better than I can. However worth mentioning it is worth getting rid of or lighten weight up top. And keep weight at the bottom of the car will help lowering center of gravity which reduce weight transfer! Therefore keeping your cool sun glasses in the arm rest is much better than in the sun glasses holder up top! Edited July 28, 2015 by Carbon.Ninja Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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