Rajzed Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 Hi guys, After a long hard day of trying to remove this snapped D1 Spec wheel nut, it now looks like this: Uploaded with ImageShack.us Any ideas on how I could remove this nut?!!? My rays are going in for a full refurb anyways, hence the damage is not soooo critical, however do need to keep the damage minimal. I have tried smashing in a slightly bigger torx screwdriver and it just shattered one side. I have tried chiselling at an angle to rotate the nut off. I have tried chiselling down one side to try and split it open. I have tried drilling a small hole down the actual nut itself to help split it. Nothing has worked! I even just tried spinning it now whilst the temperature is cold! I have also go a 20mm spacer, so the stud that the nut sits on is luckily just the spacer stud, and not that of the actual wheel. I'm open to any suggestions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Jeez dude, that's a mess Not really "here's a solution" post, but a suggestion. Apologies if you're already doing this. Are all 4 other wheel nuts still fitted? If not, I'd refit them. By tightening the other 4 up, it may release a little pressure on the mangled one. Whereas if you've just hot this one left holding the wheel on, it'll be harder to release the tension. Just a thought Best of luck mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Good idea Ian, but if that doesn't work. Failing that take it to a wheel place. (With all studs on of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete87 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Good luck with getting these off, I had a mate who had these on his civic I don't know how they can sell such a poor quality item which is very safety related Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
14N Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Good idea Ian Thanks mate, that's todays quota used already. I'm exhausted now and my head hurts. I'm off for a lie down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy78 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Sorry, I know this doesn't help, but is this a common issue with D1 wheel nuts? They aren't exactly that cheap either! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cs2000 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Good luck with getting these off, I had a mate who had these on his civic I don't know how they can sell such a poor quality item which is very safety related Sounds like it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chubby Ninja Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Making me worry about my D1 wheel nuts now. Their not made by japspeed are they? Lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy78 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Making me worry about my D1 wheel nuts now. Their not made by japspeed are they? Lol Lurpak by the looks of it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteman35 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Turbo socket? I had a internal wheel nut that stripped on my mx5 the turbo socket took it straight off. But looks like its been bashed to much . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Chubby Ninja Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbeast35 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 If I was you having tried everything else I would drill the centre of the stud, start small and increase the drill bit size until it falls off, also only drill deep enough to remove the nut itself! Not sure how easy it will be to source a new stud might be worth looking into before destroying it completely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AliveBoy Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Not the first time I've heard of problems with D1 wheel nuts. The problem with them is that they are made of aluminium and in most forms of Motorsport ali nuts are banned in the rules. Personally I'd always stick to steel nuts. Search on SXOC, Driftworks, The EP3 Civic forum or even google. This was a car which went into Garage D the other week, supposedly all 4 corners were the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Not the first time I've heard of problems with D1 wheel nuts. The problem with them is that they are made of aluminium and in most forms of Motorsport ali nuts are banned in the rules. Personally I'd always stick to steel nuts. Search on SXOC, Driftworks, The EP3 Civic forum or even google. This was a car which went into Garage D the other week, supposedly all 4 corners were the same. Well said Dedman, Ive been banging on about this for ages. The usual response is "Well mine have been fine for xyz amount of years" ......... they are all fine until they fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceejay29 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 What a mess!! These must be replica D1 Spec nuts? The market is plagued with replicas, nearly bought a set from ebay the other week but couldn't confirm whether or not they were genuine so thought better of it! At the end of the day these nuts are holding the wheels on! The problem is that most people that buy fake D1 Spec nuts do not know about it and then complain and destroy their reputation. Fake ones are made from cheap aluminum, too soft, may as well chuck them after removing them as the thread pitch will be damaged. Genuine ones are crafted from 'strong forger aircraft aluminum' - to quote the company. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 The problem is that most people that buy fake D1 Spec nuts do not know about it and then complain and destroy their reputation. Fake ones are made from cheap aluminum, too soft, may as well chuck them after removing them as the thread pitch will be damaged. Genuine ones are crafted from 'strong forger aircraft aluminum' - to quote the company. And this is the whole point, there is no "stronger" alloy nut available, genuine or fake. The Rays nuts have additional strength in the the thread (which Im still not 100% on) but these pure alloy nuts are all the same, too soft. "Genuine" D1 nuts are just as likely to get chewed or even worse, dethreaded. Aircraft grade aluminium could be the stuff they put on top of your inflight meal BTW 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 As above, aluminimum is aluminium and I still wouldn't use it on a wheel nut. There are a few places on your car where heavier is actually better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wasso Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 The Rays nuts are not just made of aluminium, hence their name Duraluminum and as stated aircraft grade Aluminium (and that probably is the stuff we eat on the plane). The Aluminium is blended with other materials as exampled below to increase its strength yet remain lightweight. A commonly used modern equivalent of this alloy type is AA2024, which contains 4.4% copper, 1.5% magnesium, 0.6% manganese and 93.5% aluminium by weight. Typical yield strength is 450 MPa (65 ksi), with variations depending on the composition and temper. Stainless Steel has a yield strength of 520mpa Aluminium 6061-0 has a yield strength of 45mpa Aluminium 6061-T4 has a yield strength of 110mpa So Duraluminum with a yield strength of 450mpa should not be shunned off for just being 'Aluminium'. It all depends on the lug nut and its construction type, as exampled above. Who's to say what the copy lugs are made of. True Duralumin is not untrustworthy. Which I'm sure Rays wouldn't put their name to if they weren't up to the job. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azzer_R Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Exactly as people above have said, I had them on my S13. The whole purpose of them being Aliuminum is that they are lightweight but because they are Ali they are weak, if any one insists on using them best to get them drilled out and a steel helicoil put in place of the Ali thread. After my experience of them and how easy they are to chew up even tightening a wheel or using an impact gun I wouldn't trust them to hold my wheels on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drayvn Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Hmm... looks like i'll be looking into the project kics earlier than expected, got D1's on my car at the mo, so next time the wheels come off i'll most likely have new stronger wheel nuts ready to go. I know the guys in the US love the project kics, but what else do you guys recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarmac@TarmacSportz Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Ouch, shouldn't they only be used on aftermarket wheels and not OEM ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ceejay29 Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Tarmac, do you stock the Muteki SR48's or do you only have the SR35's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ekona Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 I know the guys in the US love the project kics, but what else do you guys recommend? OEM for me, always. Never felt the need to change wheel nuts on any car, and if you just wanted them a different colour I'd get them painted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docwra Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 I use Driftworks internal drive nuts, well up to the job and look alright too. I had Projects KICS Neochro's on a previous set of rims, they are sexy as hell but £200 is heavy cash for a set o nuts, no matter what anyone says Tarmac - I doubt the OEness of the wheel would affect the strength of the nuts .......... I wouldnt use them on a pushbike TBH. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaydnH Posted April 3, 2013 Share Posted April 3, 2013 Tarmac - I doubt the OEness of the wheel would affect the strength of the nuts .......... I wouldnt use them on a pushbike TBH. Most OEM lugs have a ball seat, aftermarket lugs usually have a tapered seat. Luckily I believe the Z alloys have a tapered seat also so aftermarket lugs should be fine (would be good to get that confirmed as my car is in the garage so I can't check): Generally the seat type shouldn't be mixed, although you can get adaptors from http://www.tegiwaimp...s-adaptors-396/ : 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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